Tie rod bolt sheared - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Tie rod bolt sheared

1996 Concorde 3.3 passenger side tie rod bolt sheared in the rack. Any one know if there's enough work space to attempt bolt extraction without removing the rack & pinion? Kinda bummed...vehicle runs great, but now immobile without steering. It's too pricy to give it to a shop to fix, so may end up going to junk yard in Phoenix.
bandal is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 05:49 PM
Woober Goobers!

 
Ronbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tiny Pebble, AR
Posts: 48,386
Feedback: 44 / 100%
                     
Buy a replacement rack and fix it. Either used or refurbed.
Ronbo is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Yeah, thanks, it did cross my mind, but not sure I have the know-how & tools to do a proper job of it. Also, to clarify, I meant in my original post that I may have to junk the Concorde.

Last edited by bandal; 12-07-2018 at 06:45 PM.
bandal is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 06:50 PM
Woober Goobers!

 
Ronbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tiny Pebble, AR
Posts: 48,386
Feedback: 44 / 100%
                     
JJI then!
Ronbo is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 09:32 PM
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 274
Feedback: 0 / 0%
   
How on earth did that happen? :s
codyj is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
I think there were some guardian angels involved, but it happened when I came to a stop at the bottom of an off-ramp and the car wouldn't turn when I accelerated to the right. Upon inspection, the front right wheel was pointed in a different direction than the left wheel. I can't recall noticing anything abnormal at the time...no potholes, no jarring, no loud noises. The car was towed to my house, where it now sits. Visual inspection under the hood confirms the right rod is no longer attached to the rack.
bandal is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 11:59 PM
Intrepid Modder
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 274
Feedback: 0 / 0%
   
Are you sure the bolt broke and didn't just back out and fell off? There are metal tabs which fold down over the bolt head to prevent that but I figure it could have been altered at some point. It would take some serious force to break a bolt that size. I suppose there could have been a defect in the metal.

When I replaced my inner tie rod bushings, both bolts were already finger-loose which was kind of scary.
codyj is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 08:08 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 15,995
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Someone probably replaced it and the washer tabs didnít get staked or staked properly and/or the bolt head is the smaller type that doesnít stake well with the washer tabs.

The bolt backing out and falling out or backing out partially and breaking off has happened to several people over the years on both first and second gen. Serious safety hazard but no-one gives a crap. They keep putting the small-head bolts in the bushing kits - even the ones from the Chrysler dealers, or people just donít realize the importance of staking them at all and leave them unstaked.

I agree with first verifying that it didnít fall out vs. broke off. That of course would be the very best scenario. You would just have to get everything lined up to check for that and get a new bolt started. Itís hard to imagine the bolt breaking (vs. backing out all the way and falling out).

If it did break off, it would be difficult to get it out with the rack in the car. Hopefully the remaining piece is easy to turn and not binding.

Turning the steering wheel all the way to the right will give you the best access to the hole. Donít remove the other bolt until you have the problem solved. That will keep all the parts lined up so you get a straight shot at the remaining piece of the broken off bolt (thereís a metal block that is hidden between the rubber bellows/cover and the main rack rod with 2 unthreaded holes for the bolts - it slides back and forth over the main rack rod if both bolts are out at the same time - it can be a pain to get lined up with the two holes in the rack if both bolts are removed at the same time).

Assuming the remaining part of the bolt is loose and not binding, you could try to glue a small bolt or rod or tack a piece of welding rod onto it to give you something to turn it out with. Also, they make left-hand (CCW) twist drills that will turn it out as you drill (again, if it is loose and not binding). You would probably have to mail order the left twist drill (mcmaster.com, maybe Amazon?).

The problem on any of those methods is getting things lined up to hit the target without damaging adjacent parts. To drill, youíd need a right-angle drill motor (or adapter), and there may not even be room for that.

You could remove the rack to do the extraction on the bench using any of the methods described, and then re-install the same rack. A lot of work just to get a bolt out, but you may not have a choice.

If you do get to the point of putting a new bushing kit in, chances are it will have the small head bolts. Iíd highly recommend using blue thread locker on the bolts, in addition to staking. You can use channel lock pliers to squeeze and bend the tabs so they lie straight against the head all the way to the bottom of the head instead of laying at an angle and just touching the top of the head and doing no good.

Just curious to know if the tabs of the other boltís washer is even installed and staked, and if staked, is it even preventing the bolt from backing out.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome