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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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That part number doesn't appear for my 2003 300M. Mine only shows TCK296A, no WP, no tensioner. Would your kit fit my year?

Also, is the pulley in that kit plastic? I was planning on going online Mopar for the belt, tensioner and pulley. Still not sure about WP brand. Lots of differing opinions across forums and I'm getting nervous and weary.

Is there any risk in the AZ puller damaging the cover? I have a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight, 3 sizes, would that work also?
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 07:50 PM
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Don't use a regular 3-jaw puller. There is a hole in the front of the crankshaft - it's meant to use a newer type of puller that uses a pusher rod to go into the hole of the crankshaft. They also take up less room in the length direction so that you can leave the radiator in the vehicle. With a traditional 3-jaw puller, you have to remove the radiator, plus you are likely to mess up the bolt hole threads of the crankshaft because it will push on the front end of those threads. The rod of the newer type puller bottoms out in the hole several inches inside the crankshaft leaving the threads untouched.

The parts stores should have the special type of puller as a free loaner - looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CHRYSLER...UAAOSw409Zwdwh

Whatever puller you use must *not* pull by the pulley OD because the pulley is made of two parts - the outer part is joined to the inner part by a ring of rubber compressed between them. If you pull the pulley off the crankshaft by the outer part, you will likely destroy the pulley by separating the two parts of the pulleys held together by the rubber ring.

As far as the two ranges of years for the tensioner or tensioner kit, you can move to the other range of years *if* you also go with the pulley/bracket of the other range of years . That may be a decision for better pricing of a known good quality kit, or, say, to get a metal pulley vs. a plastic pulley (have been known to break apart). The pulleys are interchangeable between the two different brackets, and the brackets don't wear out - so you could buy either pulley/bracket kit to get the metal pulley and transfer it to your bracket. But, again, the important thing is to pair the bracket and tensioner by the same range of years.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 08:10 PM
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Looks like rock auto no longer carries the gates kit. I would still recommend going with the gates kit even if you have to source it from somewhere else. Should include a metal tensioner pulley (pre-installed on a bracket) and a new tensioner. Odds are your old tensioner is ok, but I have seen one that I could push in by hand before.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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I've seen videos and read forum threads where you can rent one from AZ but can also use the crank pulley bolt to help get it off partially then finish it off using a 0.25in extension in the crank bolt hole. This way the puller never touches the crankshaft and threads. Would definitely use the inward facing jaws to grab the inner hub/spokes.

I misspoke before, I looked in the wrong part group at Rockauto, there are two sections for the kit. The second one does include the kit you mentioned and it is valid for my year. $160

Any experience with the idler pulley bolt stripping when torqueing?
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 08:36 PM
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Could be JJI Time! J/K!

Last edited by Ronbo; 11-05-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ronbo, ??? Oh I see, just junk it. Not in the cards. Car is almost perfect with 98k miles. Starting to show its age but car is worth repairing as it's treated me very well.

Getting back on track...see question above.

Last edited by SMF; 11-05-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 09:23 PM
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Haven't had any problems with the idler bolt stripping.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 09:29 PM
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I have never had an issue with the idler pulley bolt.

Also, I gave the wrong number for the ACDelco kit;
the correct number: TCKWP295A

Also, I've never had an issue with these kits from rockauto.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. Anyone have pics or videos of the TB jobs they've done? I've found one YouTube but looking for more.

What about purging air from the coolant system?
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMF View Post
...What about purging air from the coolant system?
Very necessary. Follow the FSM procedure. There's an aftermarket funnel kit that allows the required overfilling of the reservoir to push coolant into the overflow chamber when the overflow tube clamp is released, but you can accomplish the same thing using one of the inexpensive longer, skinny funnels from the parts store - push it down against the reservoir fill opening to seal the outside of the funnel against the opening, then overfill and release the overflow tube clamp. Check for drop in level after driving a few minutes and top off to the Full line if needed - of course after it has cooled off.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Very necessary. Follow the FSM procedure. There's an aftermarket funnel kit that allows the required overfilling of the reservoir to push coolant into the overflow chamber when the overflow tube clamp is released, but you can accomplish the same thing using one of the inexpensive longer, skinny funnels from the parts store - push it down against the reservoir fill opening to seal the outside of the funnel against the opening, then overfill and release the overflow tube clamp. Check for drop in level after driving a few minutes and top off to the Full line if needed - of course after it has cooled off.
Also, you can open the bleeder screw on the intake manifold; do an initial system fill (to the point it wont take anymore coolant); start it; continue to fill it as the engine runs, shut bleeder valve off when a steady stream of coolant is flowing out; let engine reach operating temp with pressure cap off, and once thermostat opens, top up and install pressure cap; done; recheck when cool.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Great info guys, thanks for the help.
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