(1) Read the FSM for how to correctly use the cam lock tool.
(2) Be careful on the rear main seal plate (not talking about the camshaft seal now - talking about the *crankshaft* rear seal plate). I believe it takes a special gasket that they don’t make any more (or you have to buy the plate with the pre-formed gasket attached - and they don’t make it any more). There may be something you can do with RTV to take the place of that seal. I never had to get into that area myself, so I don’t know all the who-shot-John on it, but I remember reading a few threads on how it was a dilemma for people who removed that rear plate and then couldn’t find a replacement plate and gasket.
Hopefully someone who knows the whole story on it will come along and post the important info. Otherwise, you’re probably better off leaving that rear plate and gasket undisturbed. I assume you can replace the rear crankshaft seal without removing the plate, but I don’t know that for sure.
(3) Come to think of it, there is information that you need to know about the rear *cam* plates when you put them back on. That plates often starts seeping oil, so it’s a good idea to replace their o-rings. The advice is to order *Viton* o-rings off of eBay. I haven’t check in a while, but they used to sell the right size Viton o-ring for 10 bucks or so (including shipping) for a bag of ten. Viton should hold it forever, though wouldn’t hurt to put a light layer of RTV on them. Also - the hole for the lower bolt on one of the rear cam covers (I forget which side) is a thru hole (into the head) - so it is imperative to RTV the threads of that bolt when re-installing.
If you order the rear cam cover seal from Chrysler now, they send you flat cardboard gaskets - stupid. Groove and o-ring seal is perfect - if you use a Viton o-ring.
Bonus is that the exact same size o-ring fits the front cover of the MTV actuator, which is also a very common source of oil seepage (all over the front of the engine). Oh - the correct o-ring size is 136. Search “viton o-ring 136” on eBay.
(4) Be sure to follow the FSM bolt torqueing sequence exactly on the structural collar (connects to rear of oil pan and transmission). Not following the sequence can cause the oil pan to crack due to stresses.
'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
Last edited by peva; 10-12-2018 at 06:04 PM.