Chrysler 300M intermitten Start problems - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Chrysler 300M intermitten Start problems

Hi I have a 300M 2002,I have replaced the crankshaft sensor,camshaft sensor, and a new Preprogrammed PCM....now when I try to start the car sometime it will start and sometime it will not, when it won`t start I pop the hood and pull the 10amp PCM fuse and the 10 Amp ASD/PCM fuse wait 10-30 secs. and plug the fuse back in and it will start right up....this happens from time to time like 4-6 days without having to pull fuses,could this be a Shutdown Relay going bad or a ASD relay going bad.....need help please
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jrouter300M View Post
Hi I have a 300M 2002,I have replaced the crankshaft sensor,camshaft sensor, and a new Preprogrammed PCM....now when I try to start the car sometime it will start and sometime it will not, when it won`t start I pop the hood and pull the 10amp PCM fuse and the 10 Amp ASD/PCM fuse wait 10-30 secs. and plug the fuse back in and it will start right up....this happens from time to time like 4-6 days without having to pull fuses,could this be a Shutdown Relay going bad or a ASD relay going bad.....need help please
Could be...
You need to test the relay to see whats happening or if you feel comfortable with just replacing them go ahead, they're only a couple bucks.

Relays can do very weird intermittent things. If the PCM is receiving a crank signal from the crank AND cam sensors, then the ASD should energize and it should start.

Have you checked the CAM sensor as well? There needs to be a cam signal to start the car as well

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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 08:18 AM
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Also, what brand of cam, crank sensors did you use?

Aftermarket crap is hit or miss now a days and could be part of the issue as well.

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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Also, what brand of cam, crank sensors did you use?

Aftermarket crap is hit or miss now a days and could be part of the issue as well.

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not sure what brand, but here`s something I did ,when I crank it and it won`t start,I leave the key in the ON the position and take the PCM and ASD/PCM fuses out and plug them back in when I plug the ASD/PCM fuse in the relay clicks on and then there is something that runs on the left side like a pump that runs about 3-4seconds once thats done I can go and start the car got any idea why this is happening?...gonna change camshaft sensor....the one I put on did not have an Air -Gap spacer on it,will that make any difference? oh and I have replaced the fuel pump about 4 months ago,Its a Carter fuel pump.
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Last edited by jrouter300M; 10-31-2018 at 11:43 AM.
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 12:04 PM
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At this point you pretty much need a meter to accurately see whats going on.

You need to know when the car does NOT crank, if the PCM is outputting to the ASD and start relays. It could be a relay issue, pcm issue, or sensor issue, or even a bad wiring connection in the fuse/relay box.

If you cant see whats being energized/not energized then it's a best guess at this point

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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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At this point you pretty much need a meter to accurately see whats going on.

You need to know when the car does NOT crank, if the PCM is outputting to the ASD and start relays. It could be a relay issue, pcm issue, or sensor issue, or even a bad wiring connection in the fuse/relay box.

If you cant see whats being energized/not energized then it's a best guess at this point

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Thanks for the help I`ll do some more testing and let you know what I find
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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for the help I`ll do some more testing and let you know what I find
No prob...by you unplugging and plugging the fuses back in., it must be some sort of connection or wiring issue. Especially if it starts and runs fine afterwards

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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 12:38 PM
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If you installed the new cam sensor without a paper spacer, it could have been damaged by the tone wheel hitting the end of the sensor (the spacer forces the sensor up into the holder for a safe gap between the sensor and the tone wheel, and is supposed to get knocked of by the tone wheel) - that could be one of the reasons you have problems now.

If you were having problems before replacing the sensors, there may be a problem with the 5 volt sensor power that is shared among the engine sensors. One sensor in particular, the air conditioner pressure transducer, also runs off of that 5 volts. It is famous for going bad and shorting out the 5 volts for all the sensors. A quick check for that is to disconnect the a.c. pressure transducer and see if the engine run problems magically go away (assuming all else is good - such as no damaged cam sensor). If so, the a.c. transducer needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you could also check to see if the 5 volts is up with ignition turned on.
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
If you installed the new cam sensor without a paper spacer, it could have been damaged by the tone wheel hitting the end of the sensor (the spacer forces the sensor up into the holder for a safe gap between the sensor and the tone wheel, and is supposed to get knocked off by the tone wheel)
Totally agree. Without that gap your sensor has been bumping off of the that tone ring behind the cam shaft pulley.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jrouter300M View Post
when I plug the ASD/PCM fuse in the relay clicks on and then there is something that runs on the left side like a pump that runs about 3-4seconds once thats done I can go and start the car got any idea why this is happening?
I'm pretty sure that would be the fuel pump running. Does that every time the key is switched on.
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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
If you installed the new cam sensor without a paper spacer, it could have been damaged by the tone wheel hitting the end of the sensor (the spacer forces the sensor up into the holder for a safe gap between the sensor and the tone wheel, and is supposed to get knocked of by the tone wheel) - that could be one of the reasons you have problems now.

If you were having problems before replacing the sensors, there may be a problem with the 5 volt sensor power that is shared among the engine sensors. One sensor in particular, the air conditioner pressure transducer, also runs off of that 5 volts. It is famous for going bad and shorting out the 5 volts for all the sensors. A quick check for that is to disconnect the a.c. pressure transducer and see if the engine run problems magically go away (assuming all else is good - such as no damaged cam sensor). If so, the a.c. transducer needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you could also check to see if the 5 volts is up with ignition turned on.
where exactly is this A.C.pressure transducer located?...and yes I was having this problem before replacing the camshaft and crankshaft sensors
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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 05:47 PM
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If you follow the high side lines...

The transducer should be there on the high side

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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok ,can`t check now It`s rainng really hard
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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-31-2018, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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If you follow the high side lines...

The transducer should be there on the high side

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the high side line would be the bigger line? and that pressure -transducer is the only thing on that side that has wires running to it? and if so all i have to do is unplugit correct?
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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 05:01 AM
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It's on the line near where it goes into the condenser, sticking out of the line near the passenger side of the radiator. Yep, unplug it.
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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 06:27 AM
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Item '3' in this diagram - on the discharge (high pressure) hose (the one going to the condenser):

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