You want some peanut butter with that hood jam?
Did you totally unscrew the two latch bolts? If you do that, you should be able to lift the hood with the latch attached - you may have to wiggle or move the latch assembly around so it clears the upper radiator support so the hood and latch can move skyward together. Then you can use a screwdriver or pliers (pull the cable if it's still hooked to the unlatch mechanism) to trip the unlatch mechanism to remove the latch from the hood.
For after you get it open
Probably either the cable broke *OR* the end of the cable sheath slipped out of the keyhole in the latch that it slips into. If broken cable, of course you need to replace the cable assembly.
If the latch-end of the cable sheath slipped out of the keyhole in the latch assembly, after you slip it back into the keyhole (and before shutting the hood
), take a zip tie (the very tiny ones work great) and loop it around the cable sheath end and the edge of the sheet metal that the keyhole is in and pull the zip tie tight. That will positively lock the sheath end in place in the keyhole. (If you ever need to remove the cable from the latch, simply cut the zip tie and slip the cable sheath out of the keyhole like normal.)
What generally happens is that if you ever removed the cable from the latch, each time you did so, a little plastic on the end of the sheath that locks it into the keyhole gets scraped off so that it no longer has an interference fit with the entrance to the small part of the keyhole and it starts fitting loose with the detent area of the keyhole slot so it easily slips out of place - then the next time you pull the hood release latch, instead of the cable pulling the unlatching mechanism, the cable sheath moves - hood won't open.
When re-attaching the latch to the upper radiator support, you need to adjust the height position of the latch before you tighten the two bolts (the bolt holes are made oversize to allow this height adjustment). if you position the heads of the bolts so they match the markings in the paint, the hood closure should be like it came from the factory. If the closed and latched hood isn't even with the top surface of the fenders, you can position the bolts different from the marks in the paint. Adjust the position of the latch bolts and the height of the two rubber bumpers on the front corners of the radiator support up and down (they go up and down like screws when you turn them) until the closed hood is the right height relative to the fenders and
the tension on the closed hood is right to make it latch with moderate downward pressure - too loose and it can rattle while going down the road, too tight and it makes closing it too difficult and puts unnecessary stress on everything.