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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-12-2013 09:12 AM
foradrive Just some new info for an old thread. Hopefully some one can benefit from it. I recently had to install the newer style transducer on my '96 Intrepid and of course needed the different pigtail connector. I didn't want to spend the $50-ish for that, so I remembered I had kept one of the old oxygen sensors that I'd changed out on it and wondered if that connector would work. ITS A PERFECT FIT! Now, it has four wires when you only need three for the transducer, but no biggie, just cut that one off.

Wire colors are not the same, so pay attention to which wire goes where. My old oxygen sensor had two white wires, a grey one, and a black one. Looking at the back side of the connector where the wires come out, I matched up the "lower left" grey wire to the blue on the transducer wiring. Then the "upper left" white wire to the black for the transducer, and the "upper right" white wire to the purple on the transducer. Works like a charm.
06-29-2012 05:56 PM
khirschkorn Ok Im gonna hit some parts yards next week. I need a few odds and ends. They should have what i need to put back on line.
06-29-2012 05:09 PM
EagleESI
Quote:
Originally Posted by khirschkorn View Post
Ok wife bought a 1996 Eagle Vision TSI loaded needs some work. Any way some douche cut the wire's that run in to the top of the compressor.. So what do they go to and where. I have removed the belt based on it be trashed. Has pressure I think.Any just need to know what and ware they go.

Wire on top of the compressor was the 12 volt source signal wire for the a/c compressor clutch. I do not know how it is ran on the 3.5 for sure, I do know on the 3.3 the wire runs through the engine valley next to the intake and into the main harness in the back.
06-28-2012 09:20 PM
khirschkorn
1996 TSI A/C wire's cut at the compressor

Ok wife bought a 1996 Eagle Vision TSI loaded needs some work. Any way some douche cut the wire's that run in to the top of the compressor.. So what do they go to and where. I have removed the belt based on it be trashed. Has pressure I think.Any just need to know what and ware they go.
05-05-2012 01:14 AM
gtr_stitch Sixteen pages is a loooot to sift through. Gave up on page 5. anyways, noob here needing a little guidance. Its finally summer, and the ac is needed more than ever. Weird things though. The vent selection doesn't work. Its stuck on the windshield vents. Wouldn't be a problem if it were stuck on more convenient vents. I've had it looked at and they say that it's vacuum controlled and there's a leak, which is why its stuck one one setting. Is that right? And if so, is it an easy fix?
Problem two...the ac works, mostly. The button to actually turn on cool air doesn't work anymore. I'm guessing its electrical because this issue came up after replacing the clamps on the battery. If it's electrical or just a circuitboard problem, I can manage that. Anyways, now I have to hold the button to get any cold air. Gotta say, I'm lost as ever. I would definitely appreciate any advice! Its ironic, though. I owned an old as hell Toyota before this and it did exactly the same thing. Just now, instead of pressing the button, hearing a confirming beep and getting cold air, gotta hold the button and no beep. I need the beep back. Its a 99 intrepid 2.7. Again, much thanks to any advice!!
04-09-2012 08:20 PM
siberian Could you share with us the recal process for 1st gen Intrepids with ATC? I read you found it; yet I can only find it for 2nd gens.
08-13-2011 10:52 PM
cdmccul Just to kinda clarify - Any AC system runs at an IDEAL pressure. R12 ran a little more forgiving than R134a, but physics is physics, and the compressor can only do so much work. It is always best to charge the system to the specified pressure - R12 was just less picky.
08-13-2011 10:38 PM
siberian Another piece of the puzzle. I too thought I had transducer problems and paid the Chrysler dealer big bucks to have it replaced with the newer version; still had problems. Turns out, the last "shade tree" mechanic overcharged the refrigerant as the "old" freon a/c's could be charged more for even colder air. He assumed the newer non-CFC worked that way too, but they don't work that way with the new stuff. It has to be at the exact pressure......EXACT. It can also mess up the ATC too. Now it works fine, blows snowballs out at you, and the ATC even works. Hope this info applies to someone and will help if all else fails.
10-27-2010 10:42 PM
jay8833 For second generation intrepids, check the 30 amp "rad fan hi" fuse under the hood. Look very carefully, since the fuse fracture can be a hairline crack. I believe this fuse also controls the AC clutch.
10-03-2010 12:33 PM
fonzy35
Quote:
Originally Posted by ets1 View Post
I have 2 first gen Intrepids, both with over 275,000 km that I maintain. The radiator fans are operated by two relays. The relays are controlled by the PCM. The PCM operated the relays relative to two input signals, one from the coolant temperature sensor and one from the A/C pressure transducer. The coolant temperature sensor is a variable resistance device that operates in a range from 300 to 2000 ohms. Any signal outside this range is seen as a fault by the PCM. The A/C pressure transducer is a variable voltage device that operates from 0 to 4.5 volts. Any signal outside this range is seen as a fault by the PCM. You can use a 1 or 5 watt 2000 ohm potentiometer and solder on 3 test leads to trouble shoot either sensor. Label the test leads 1-2-3. You should have 2000 ohms between leads 1 and 3 and variable 0 to 2000 ohms between leads 1 and 2. For the coolant sensor remove the connector and attach the the #1 test lead to either connector wire and the #2 test lead to the other. Turn the pot full clockwise (2000) ohms and start the car. Slowly turn the pot ccw and mark the point when the low speed fan turns on. Continue and mark the point when the high speed fan turns on. You cannot connect an ohmmeter while performing this test. You must position it at the marks and take a reading after the test. Compare to the chart below.
To test the A/C pressure transducer, remove the connector and connect test lead #1 to the Violet/Purple wire, #2 to the Dark Blue wire and #3 to the Black/Lite blue wire. Connect a DC voltmeter to test leads #2 and #3. Turn the pot full counter clockwise and start the car with the A/C off. Slowly turn the pot clockwise and note the voltage reading when the low speed and high speed fan turn on and off.
This is the relationship of readings to fan operation.
FANS A/C Press Transducer Cooant Sensor
PSI VOLTS TEMP RESISTANCE
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low ON 210 3.5v 99 c 800 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Low OFF 125 2.2v 93 c 900 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High ON 250 4.4v 130 c 500 ohms
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
High OFF 230 4.0v 110 c 700 ohms

Transducer harness testing Intrepid 1995 ES 3.5l


I don't think my transducer is working I get code 33
the ac is gone anyway, I cut out the belt.. But my radiator fan speed go high if I click on my front defroster, and ac button…

I was told to unplug the ac transducer that it would stop send bad signal to PCM if the Transducer was bad.

I was checking my Transducer harness (with Transducer unplug just the harness ... 3 wires) on my Intrepid 1995 ES 3.5l Yesterday…

Black with strip light blue = ground
Purple wire = got 5 volt with the ground
Dark Blue = got 4.97 volt with ground (Is this normal on the return signal, the transducer is not connected)

I would imagine that I wouldn't get any volt on the return dark blue wire? Right?

Is it shorted some were with the purple PCM supply 5 volt and that’s why I’m getting code #33?

Just wondering if it was normal to get a return signal volt output (Dark Blue Wire) to the PCM without the transducer plugged?
09-30-2010 02:06 PM
cdmccul Others may argue with me - but I'd stay away from anything that isn't r134a or r-12... our systems are 134a already, and you don't need anything special to service those either...

Using any other chemical is just asking for trouble in the US...
09-29-2010 11:19 PM
fonzy35 Found this Replacement for $35



http: // cgi.ebay.ca/Ultra-Cool-Complete-A-C-recharge-kit-hose-gauge-/180506994613?pt=Automotive_Services&hash=item2a070 e27b5

Ultra Cool Complete A/C recharge kit hose with gauge
UC-502


NO LICENSE REQUIRED TO BUY OR USE!

WORK ON YOUR OWN SYSTEM!

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We carry everything you need to recharge any system.

From your car/truck to your tractor/combine, to your house or industrial coolers.

ULTRA COOL Refrigerant replaces 134A and other R12 substitutes.

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6oz of ULTRA COOL Refrigerant will replace 16oz of 134a or 18oz of R12!

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Energy savings of up to 40% over the chemical refrigerants are common.

ULTRA COOL Refrigerant cools faster, better, and is easy to install and maintain in all of your systems. Remember, there is nearly three times as much 134A in the same air conditioning system as there is ULTRA COOL.

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1 Hi/Low Fitting
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1 Charging Hose with gauge



It most be worth the money just for the gauge... imo
09-28-2010 11:33 AM
fonzy35 I reposted in the A/C Faq.. Look like it's a A/C transducer problem..

OK.. Look like, after reading more then a few post, they're 2 sensor activating the Radiator Fan on my 1995 3.5 liter intrepid
Hot Water sensor next to the thermostat
and
Pressure Transducer on the line of the A/C

Like i said the A/C not working anymore and not using it.

So i cut off the belt and unplug 2 wire harness from the transducer and fan acted low , high..etc.. without the car being worm up yet..(before and after unplugging)

I got code 33( got to do with short on ac/clutch or transducer)

I notice something deferent yesterday when a clique on a/c button..the radiator fan turn on
when clicking on front defroster the radiator fan turn on
when clicking on front defroster and feet , radiator fan turn on

all the rest of heater button, even the floor heater doesn't activate the radiator fan

The more i read the more it go to do with Transducer , even if it unplug

Anybody know if i put a resistant (ohm ??) between the 2 wire harness unplugged transducer could trick the PCM that the pressure is not to high or the pressure is not to low on a/c? so it won't activate the fan for nothing.. especially during the winter here, it get pretty cold, i don't won't the fan staring up on -20 Celsius under zero on a cold start.


Thanks.. by the way it's very helpful forum on intrepid..
05-04-2009 04:23 PM
mf2004champ I just bought an 'Artic Freeze' bottle with guage from wallyword, $30. Going to try tommorrow. Hopefully the compressor will kick back on when I fill the system up. 22 oz can.
05-04-2009 01:54 PM
DrEvil I bought a used ATC control head and it works perfect now.
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