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74k miles on my 99 Intrepid Sedan, a bit of trim wear and tear... Here goes:

(Pertinent info.— my grandmother owned this car since brand new, and had a phantom mystery SLOW power drain somewhere on the system, I was told they had taken it to multiple techs in the area to locate the problem and it finally resulted in them installing a master battery shut-off switch into the dash between the steering column and a/c&heating control switch module...

Ultimately, the operator must turn the electrical systems connection to the battery on and off amongst entering and exiting the vehicle. To prevent battery charge bleed out.)


With that out of the way...

There has been a handful of times, where I have experienced peculiar sporadic behavior from the iginition switch and/or system, in which the vehicle has attempted to ‘start’ itself without the key being turned.
More yet, there has been just as many times I've received identical behaviors, even, WITHOUT the key even being in any kind of proximity to the ignition , at all!‡

Mind you, this is only minutes after turning the master electrical switch ON.

Also, worth mentioning... It happened to be extremely hot the days I've experienced this. Perhaps even, only on days, where outside ambient temperatures were 90°F or greater.

Recently, the climate control blower speeds have been reduced to 2 speeds: OFF FULL HURRICANE FORCE. Either - it is not on at all, no matter the speed selection you've dialed into spanning from 'actual' OFF, all the way up to the gradient level just before MAX.. Or - it is gale force winds on whichever temperature you feel like having slap you. Endlessly. Intentionally. Maliciously. PERIOD. .

Just the other day, the Power Windows/Mirrors control switches, both the front & rear passenger door switches even, (ALL 4 Doors) seem to have lost power and functionality.

→⟩ Though, it must be said, loss of function proceeded after work when I turned on the electrical, then the ignition, where I was able to roll down the windows but once down, functionality ceased up until bedtime. The next morning, I turned on the master electrical switch, then started my car, tried the windows and they worked, all the way up to the point of me exiting upon arrival at work. Then, after work that same day, I turned the master electrical switch on, started the vehicle, and the loss of functionality had returned and yet, remains.


→ I have no idea if any of these things are somehow related or connected to each other in some way. FUSES have all been CHECKEDREPLACED.

THOUGHTS??? IDEAS????

CONNECTED???? COMPLETELY UNRELATED???

★★★HELP PLEASE★★★



MANY THANKS~ YOUR FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD DODO-BOT
 

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Sounds like it has an aftermarket remote start that has a problem - perhaps wired incorrectly or loose/intermittent connections (wire ends twisted and taped together, or bad crimp connections).

The cabin fan either off or on full blast is likely a bad fan resistor module or power module. Does it have MTC (manual temperature control) or ATC (automatic temperature control)? - see below.

The power windows problem may or may not be related to add-on remote start hack job, but I would fix that and the blower fan speed problem first, and then attack the power window problem if it's still there.


MTC
41682



ATC
41681
 

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Too difficult to read with all the text color changes and font sizes. Good luck anyway.

Maybe repost in single color white same size text if you expect serious answers or help.
 

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74k miles on my 99 Intrepid Sedan, a bit of trim wear and tear... Here goes:

(Pertinent info.— my grandmother owned this car since brand new, and had a phantom mystery SLOW power drain somewhere on the system, I was told they had taken it to multiple techs in the area to locate the problem and it finally resulted in them installing a master battery shut-off switch into the dash between the steering column and a/c&heating control switch module...

Ultimately, the operator must turn the electrical systems connection to the battery on and off amongst entering and exiting the vehicle. To prevent battery charge bleed out.)

With that out of the way...

There has been a handful of times, where I have experienced peculiar sporadic behavior from the iginition switch and/or system, in which the vehicle has attempted to ‘start’ itself without the key being turned.
More yet, there has been just as many times I've received identical behaviors, even, WITHOUT the key even being in any kind of proximity to the ignition , at all!‡

Mind you, this is only minutes after turning the master electrical switch ON.

Also, worth mentioning... It happened to be extremely hot the days I've experienced this. Perhaps even, only on days, where outside ambient temperatures were 90°F or greater.

Recently, the climate control blower speeds have been reduced to 2 speeds: OFF FULL HURRICANE FORCE. Either - it is not on at all, no matter the speed selection you've dialed into spanning from 'actual' OFF, all the way up to the gradient level just before MAX.. Or - it is gale force winds on whichever temperature you feel like having slap you. Endlessly. Intentionally. Maliciously. PERIOD. .

Just the other day, the Power Windows/Mirrors control switches, both the front & rear passenger door switches even, (ALL 4 Doors) seem to have lost power and functionality.

→⟩ Though, it must be said, loss of function proceeded after work when I turned on the electrical, then the ignition, where I was able to roll down the windows but once down, functionality ceased up until bedtime. The next morning, I turned on the master electrical switch, then started my car, tried the windows and they worked, all the way up to the point of me exiting upon arrival at work. Then, after work that same day, I turned the master electrical switch on, started the vehicle, and the loss of functionality had returned and yet, remains.


→ I have no idea if any of these things are somehow related or connected to each other in some way. FUSES have all been CHECKEDREPLACED.

THOUGHTS??? IDEAS????

CONNECTED???? COMPLETELY UNRELATED???

★★★HELP PLEASE★★★



MANY THANKS~ YOUR FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD DODO-BOT
Been there. First, sheck the positive jump point connections. taker it all apart and check for corrosion and clean then reinstall. next, do the same with the connection to the power relay box in the engine bay. if it is like mine, it looked fine on top but was oxidized and heravily corroded underneath. I had to take a file to clean mine before reinstalling it. solved all of my power woes.
 
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