take the e brake off
0-60 Specs arent lookin good
I have had quite a bit of mods done to my trepid, throttle bodys, air restrictor yanked, high performance air intake, prototype sway bar, I have the performance and handling package, the stats say it should pull a 8.3 0-60 but I could never get it that low. car has 106 thou on mileage.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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I didnt have enough time today because I had to work most of the day, but we'll see what happens tommorrow, I'll try and run it at a stop light and see what I'll pull. I got a couple of other problems, I got a good 100-300 pounds in the trunk from the added weight of my system, 3 amps, 2 12's, custom box so that might be a problem.
i have a 97 ES, and it runs alright, fastest time 0-60 was 7.48 at the track (15.63 @ 94 MPH). pretty quick car when it wants to be...
If you are using the vehicle speedometer to determine when you get to 60 mph, that could be your problem. Some speedos have a significant lag time, so you are really going over 60 mph when the speedo swings to 60. On my Dakota R/T I get 0-60 times of 6.4 with the G-Tech, but only 7.1 using the speedometer and a stopwatch. YMMV.
I just checked my 0-60 and clocked it as just under a day. 
Next time I'll ante up the bucks for the big guns! If my little 2.7 could talk, it would probably have me arrested for cruelty to an internal combustion engine. I'll wait for 2004...
Next time I'll ante up the bucks for the big guns! If my little 2.7 could talk, it would probably have me arrested for cruelty to an internal combustion engine.
I'll wait for 2004...What the hell did you do to your car to get it to run that quick!Originally posted by Valhalla 21340:
i have a 97 ES, and it runs alright, fastest time 0-60 was 7.48 at the track (15.63 @ 94 MPH). pretty quick car when it wants to be...
That makes sense now that the speedo could be slow, hmm well how could I get an accurate reading of what it will pull without spending alot of money? It has really good mid torque pull and top end. I wish superchips carried a chip for the 95 and up modeled 1st gen'z!
i ran those numbers at a local dragstrip one morning. i did a straight drag with a pontiac grand am, and kicked its ass. the only thing ive done to the car was the exhaust. when i got those numbers, though, i took out the spare tire, emptied out the big ol' 4x12 geee'tar cab from the trunk, told the woman to take a hike, pumped the tires to 36 psi, and had about 1/2 a gallon of gas in the tank. took off the passenger side turn signal, removed filter box, ran a hose through the opening in the fender that leads to the airfilter box and connected it directly to the intake hose, (no filter, dont do this regularly or you will be in a world of hurt) ...ghetto ram air
i also came about .141 seconds from red-lighting it at the start. (i cannot do the straight drag lights,...they confuse me. the wait, then the no warning all yellow-to-green...makes my head spin)
---brake stand, about 2,500 rpm, just as soon as the last yellow goes out, release brake and punch it. ride first gear to 6,000, shift to 2nd, all the way to 74 MPH, shift into 3rd, all the way to the finish. ive only done 4 or 5 runs like that with this car, most of em were time slips with modified chevelles and what not. its pretty quick for a 3400 pound piece of v-6 lead.
i also came about .141 seconds from red-lighting it at the start. (i cannot do the straight drag lights,...they confuse me. the wait, then the no warning all yellow-to-green...makes my head spin)
---brake stand, about 2,500 rpm, just as soon as the last yellow goes out, release brake and punch it. ride first gear to 6,000, shift to 2nd, all the way to 74 MPH, shift into 3rd, all the way to the finish. ive only done 4 or 5 runs like that with this car, most of em were time slips with modified chevelles and what not. its pretty quick for a 3400 pound piece of v-6 lead.
OH YEAH, VERY IMPORTANT>>>>>IF you are going to do that really ghetto ram air thing at all, DO NOT DO IT ON A ROAD CAR...IE normal driving. ALSO...when i did it, i forgot to mention that i put a baffle in the fender to discourage larger pieces of crap to go flying into the intake. just a light, thin sponge between the fender hose and the stock intake hose as a failsafe for pieces of sand or gravel to be clunking around inside the motor. AGAIN, dont go doing this all the time, and only when doing things at a track. i did notice a little bump in acceleration, though......
did you take the muffler and the resonator off and replace both of them with the flowmaster?
everything from the 3rd cat back, replaced with a 2.5" molded exhaust pipe with one flowmaster 40 series at the end. i am thinking about this...riding my brain...do aftermarket headers, built for the 3.5l motor in the prowler, fit the motor of a 3.5l first gen...? because if they could, i definetly would (like, tomorrow) buy those said headers, retrofit, and do the true dual thing on the car.
What proto-type sway bar? From who, and how much? What'd you do to the t-bodies? I been trying to figure out if I can adapt a pair of 3.8v6 bodies to work.
I clocked a 7.7 with a G-tech, repeatedly. This was with only the restrictor removed. I was also running on 255/50/16 XGT Z4 tires, which made launching easier. I expect that with a decent cold air intake and an exhaust, you should be able to hit low 7's or high 6's. Don't try timing by hand. As the others said, there is too much lag in the speedo. Get a G-tech. I think BFG was running a promo where you get one for free with the purchase of four new tires.
Scott
Scott
anyone tried porting the throttle bodies? or is that too much work for the gains?
I ported mine. I mentioned this in another post. I don't know if it made much of a difference because I've been loaning the car to my brother, and haven't gotten to drive it much. Its a little bit of a pain in the ass, but we'll see if its worth it.
Scott
Scott
please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly do u do when u port the heads?
Porting the heads is when you grind away some of the metal in the passageways that go to the cylinders. This enlarges the passages, allowing making it easier for the air to get in to the cylinder. This can have a significant effect on power. It can also hurt the low end torque if done poorly. You may hear people talk about CNC porting. This is when the grinding and cutting is done by a "computer numerical controlled" machine. This ensures that the ports end shaped exactly the way you want them. If the model you are following was well designed you will get consistantly good results. Chances are, people working on Intrepid heads would have to hand port and polish them.
Scott
Scott
i don't think porting the heads on an engine like this is a very worthwhile investment. you'd have to completely reprogram the chip to see any benefts. now you're looking at close to a grand to port the heads and reprogram. i wouldn't do it.
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