'00 Intrepid and 2002 Concord.

394 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by peva, 20 d ago

Lovelyanarchy

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago

Are the suspension parts and wheel rotors and such interchangeable between a 2000 intrepid and a 2002 Concord?

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cdmccul

· #2 · 1 mo ago

Should be, yes.

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JordanS

· #3 · 1 mo ago

Lovelyanarchy said:
Are the suspension parts and wheel rotors and such interchangeable between a 2000 intrepid and a 2002 Concord?

Also I’d you need some suggestions on quality aftermarket parts suspension wise, I’d look into Detroit Axle. They made my steering rack I replaced about a year ago now and it’s been working great for me. They were also really good with returns when I didn’t have quite the right part. I think you do have to send back the core if I’m not mistaken. I highly recommend them.

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99intrepy

· #4 · 22 d ago

Lovelyanarchy said:
Are the suspension parts and wheel rotors and such interchangeable between a 2000 intrepid and a 2002 Concord?

I will warn you of a big thing when it comes to brakes with Intrepids. I have a 1999 Intrepid SE but it had 16 inch wheels. They are add on wheel package from Chrysler but the knuckle is a 15 inch knuckle. So buy 15 inch rotors as the 16 inch rotors will not fit. I learned the hard way. I also had to replace the knuckle and put a 16 inch one on and had it running for a while. I just did all the suspension from another car with low mileage in great shape so I just took all the front end parts and swapped them. The car has never ridden better. I even added camber adjustment bolts to make sure they could really dial in the alignment.

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peva

· #5 · 22 d ago (Edited)

99intrepy said:
...I even added camber adjustment bolts to make sure they could really dial in the alignment.

Suggestion: Always have the alignment shop agree before you authorize the alignment that they will provide you with a "Before" and "After" printout of all of the alignment numbers (including front cross-camber, front caster, and front cross-camber) - even the ones that aren't adjustable. Most shops are set up to do that as part of their published alignment price because people have become more educated about this and it is now expected/demanded by many customers. AND inform them of any parameters that weren't adjustable from the factory but that you've made adjustable (for example: front camber and cross camber, and rear camber in addition to rear toe) and get their agreement to adjust those to bring things well within the published specs. You can't assume that they will give you the printouts or that they will adjust the parameters that you've made adjustable unless you discuss it with them and get their agreement - and that has to be done before you authorize the work to be done. If they aren't willing to do those things, take it to another shop that will.

Also: The factory front toe adjuster sleeves on our cars are of poor design and often become unadjustable due to corrosion and cracking, which results in severe binding. It is very advisable to replace your factory toe adjuster sleeves with the aftermarket type that have the large hex wrench grip for ease of adjustment. Most aftermarket companies make two versions of the sleeve: The inferior factory knurled-grip type, and the much-improved hex grip type (see the below photos of the two types from the Rock Auto web site). Get the hex grip type. If you don't do that, many shops won't tell you that your original factory sleeves are corroded and/or cracked to the point that they are no longer adjustable, and will leave your toe unadjusted. Hard to believe, but it's a fact. Replace them with the improved hex-grip design ones (and grease the inner and outer threads before installing them to prevent future corrosion and binding) and let the shop know that you installed good ones so they will not be tempted to leave them unadjusted and make up a bogus excuse after-the-fact. Getting the "before" and "after" printouts will also help keep them honest in that regard.

TOE ADJUSTER SLEEVES (TRW brand shown)

Inferior factory (knurled grip) design:

Camera accessory Camera lens Font Cylinder Skyscraper

Improved (hex grip) design:

Camera accessory Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Cylinder Skyscraper

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JordanS

· #6 · 22 d ago

peva said:
Suggestion: Always have the alignment shop agree before you authorize the alignment that they will provide you with a "Before" and "After" printout of all of the alignment numbers (including front cross-camber, front caster, and front cross-camber) - even the ones that aren't adjustable. Most shops are set up to do that as part of their published alignment price because people have become more educated about this and it is now expected/demanded by many customers. AND inform them of any parameters that weren't adjustable from the factory but that you've made adjustable (for example: front camber and cross camber, and rear camber in addition to rear toe) and get their agreement to adjust those to bring things well within the published specs. You can't assume that they will give you the printouts or that they will adjust the parameters that you've made adjustable unless you discuss it with them and get their agreement - and that has to be done before you authorize the work to be done. If they aren't willing to do those things, take it to another shop that will.

Also: The factory front toe adjuster sleeves on our cars are of poor design and often become unadjustable due to corrosion and cracking, which results in severe binding. It is very advisable to replace your factory toe adjuster sleeves with the aftermarket type that have the large hex wrench grip for ease of adjustment. Most aftermarket companies make two versions of the sleeve: The inferior factory knurled-grip type, and the much-improved hex grip type (see the below photos of the two types from the Rock Auto web site). Get the hex grip type. If you don't do that, many shops won't tell you that your original factory sleeves are corroded and/or cracked to the point that they are no longer adjustable, and will leave your toe unadjusted. Hard to believe, but it's a fact. Replace them with the improved hex-grip design ones (and grease the inner and outer threads before installing them to prevent future corrosion and binding) and let the shop know that you installed good ones so they will not be tempted to leave them unadjusted and make up a bogus excuse after-the-fact. Getting the "before" and "after" printouts will also help keep them honest in that regard.

TOE ADJUSTER SLEEVES (TRW brand shown)

Inferior factory (knurled grip) design:
View attachment 43330 View attachment 43332

Improved (hex grip) design:
View attachment 43331 View attachment 43333

I can attest to this. I had to align my own car myself on one of those fancy alignment machines. It was a total pain to do, especially since I didn’t have any of the special tools that you needed. Thankfully, it was easier for me because I had the tie rod ends replaced within the last five years so while there was still corrosion, it wasn’t as bad as it normally would get. I definitely agree with getting a before and after alignment sheet from, the mechanic doing the alignment because sometimes by the amount it’s off is not going to really damage anything. Like my steering wheel in my car is just a little bit off-center from what I remember but it’s really not the end of the world.

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99intrepy

· #7 · 20 d ago

Yeah I had the tie rods off the car to do the inner tie rod bushings and I was able to work them free on the vise. They sure do get corroded. And one outer tie rod was so stuck in the knuckle that I ruined it. Had to buy a new one. Anyways the car is perfectly aligned now with all correct original mopar parts. The camber caster and toe readings were given and all within 0.1 degrees. I am amazed how nice it is to drive. Bang on. I had to go back to the Honda dealership who did it (I had a discount there) twice. The first time they didn't even know how to adjust camber with the bolts and left it alone. It was way off, so I finally got them to align it right. Then I had to come back again because the steering wheel wasn't quite centered. Now it is and everything perfect. And with nice tires too the car is a dream to drive now compared to the past.

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peva

· #8 · 20 d ago

The steering wheel being off center can be two different behaviors with different implications for the causes and fix:

(1) Steering wheel is off-center on "straight and level" driving - and IF you take your hands off the wheel while going straight, the steering wheel stays off center the same amount and the car continues to go straight.

For this condition, if your front cross-cambers, cross-casters, and total toe and rear cross-cambers and total toe are all correct, and no there are no tire irregularities, that means that you simply need to adjust the left and right front toe settings the same exact amount in the same directions.

IOW, for example, if steering wheel is to the left for straight-ahead driving, and stays that way with hands off the wheel (car continues to go straight), turn the front wheel toe adjusters the exact same amount to turn both tires to the left. Trial and error until the steering wheel is centered for straight-ahead driving.

(2) Steering wheel is off center on "straight and level" driving - and you have to put a rotating force on the wheel to keep going straight - IOW, IF you take you hands off the steering wheel, it rotates a little, and the car drifts off course. This is called a "pull" ("to the right" or "to the left").

For this condition, everything else being correct, this indicates that the cross-caster is off. Caster on each side creates a force to turn the car to the other side. Unequal left-right casters causes a net pull to one side. With this condition, the car will go to one side if hands are removed from the wheel. (If caster on both sides are the same but of a low value, it takes more concentration and attention to keep the car moving straight. If the two values are equal but of high value, the car has a greater tendency to return itself to straight-ahead travel.

Caster is not normally considered adjustable, but cross-camber can be corrected some by loosening the engine cradle bolts and then re-tightening the bolts with a rotating force applied to the cradle with chains.

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