04 Intrepid 2.7 Broken Again.

662 Views 31 Replies 3 Participants Last post by JordanS, 4 mo ago

JordanS

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

My Intrepid is broken again, big shock. This time it's been fine running after a cold start but gradually, more and more slapping from the timing chain happens. I haven't driven it in nearly 5 months out of an abundance of caution but I wanted to ask if it was something that I could tackle myself in my garage. I'm super nervous about messing with the timing on it and I know it could just be a tensioner but Im replacing the chain, guides, and sprockets as well because its got 121k miles, and it's probably time anyway. I haven't done any major mechanical work like this before so I was wondering if this was something that would be good to get my feet wet with.

I was also more or less concerned about doing the valve seals while the chain is off (because I believe that they are bad and causing some noticeable oil consumption) but after reading up on the repair procedure, Im relatively nervous about using 90-100psi of air in one of the cylinders. Is it possible to get to replace the valve seals without having to use compressed air?

Oh 2 more things, are there any special tools required for either of these tasks besides the timing chain tensioner tool, and is there any work that I should do while Im in there? Just trying to be prepared before diving into this project. FYI the water pump is updated and was changed 50k-60k miles ago.

Thank you for your time!

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #5 · 4 mo ago

peva said:
You don't really need the tensioner tool. You can improvise with a small pointy object, like a small jeweler's screwdriver, to depress the ball check valve in the tensioner to drain the oil out if it. (You're not repkacing the tensioner with a new OEM one?)

You'll need a valve spring compressor that will fit in the cramped spaces around the valve springs on your engine. This is a good one:

Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE Valve Spring Remover Installer Car Engine Overhead Compressor Tool Kit OHV OHC : Automotive

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You might re-read your previous thread for additional suggestions:

Replacing My Timing Chain, Water Pump, and Valve Stem...

I've decided to dig into my engine and replace the timing chain along with a couple of "while you're in there" as well (the water pump and the valve stem seals). I think from a post I saw before about replacing the water pump that it should preferably be a Mopar original since it will be the...

www.dodgeintrepid.net

peva said:
There is a good alternative to using compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders when replacing the valve stem seals. In fact it is less risk for two reasons.

What is this method you ask? It's putting the cylinder you want to work on at BDC, taking some small rope (Ø3/16" woven polyester from Walmart or big box store is ideal) and pushing it thru the spark plug hole - keep feeding it in until the cylinder is mostly full, then turn the crankshaft CW by hand to compress the rope up against the cylinder head. You don't have to worry about trying to get every last inch of rope stuffed in - just keep pushing it in until it is resisting taking anymore - that should be plenty, and you don't have to turn the crankshaft very hard against the head - the piston just needs to be pushing the wad of rope upward moderately hard to keep the valves from dropping.

The advantages of this method are (1) you don't have to have an air compressor or worry about losing electricity or the compressor failing in the middle of the job, and (2) you don't have to worry about moisture from the compressed air condensing out inside the engine and causing rust or swelling of carbon deposits creating a piston-to-head interference (that actually happened to me one time).

So I definitely advise using the string method rather than compressed air.

Thanks for the rope trick and the suggestions! And I probably would replace the tensioner because I think that’s acting up causing my issue but I’ll just replace the chain, guides, and sprockets while I’m there. Appreciate all your help! Thanks so much!

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #6 · 4 mo ago

peva said:
The valve stem seals will take some time - there are 24 of them.

Oh and yeah, I know there are quite a few. It'll be ok to do I think.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #8 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
If your doing your timing and components and want to do the valve springs why not just take the head off and throw a new head gasket in at the same time i asume your replacing the secondary timing chains too

Might not be a bad thing. Im going to get a gasket kit with head gaskets and such so I might do that as a preventative measure. Plus it would make it much easier to do the valve seals.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
I just mentioned it because i just put in a new timing chain and timing component oil pump water pump new valves lifters and valve seals. If your already doing the timing stuff its not really that muchvextra work to just put in a new head gasket and while you have the heads off you could just pick up a cheap valve compressor so its easier to put in the valve seals. I picked up a valve compressor off Amazon for like $25.

Well I was not going to do the water pump or the oil pump due to the added costs but maybe I should. It wouldn’t hurt I think since it’s just an extra couple bolts to get them replaced.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #12 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
I just did all that because my water pump went out so i figured since i have to tear my engine apart anyway i just replaced every internal part and gaskets View attachment 43060

That’s good. My water pump was replaced with the updated design 50k-60k miles ago so I didn’t think I’d need to replace it quite yet though it couldn’t hurt. It’s just going to hurt my wallet so much more.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #14 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
If you already replaced it with the updated one you shouldn't have to replace it again, i just had to replace mine with the updated one because the gasket gave out that stupid rubber thing on the metal gasket was in pieces and was causing me to have sludge

Ah ok. I’m glad it’s an item that doesn’t need replacing now. I didn’t really think about replacing the oil pump though. If it’s not too much extra I think I might do that.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #16 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
They aren't too bad in price. Iv been a mechanic since the early 90s . Usually when i crack an engine open i just replace everything internal that way i know its all brand new and i shouldn't have to open my engine back up.

Yea that’s what I was going to do. I know the job is a pain in the backside so I want to do as much as possible to avoid having to do it again. I’ve worked as a mechanic for not nearly as long but long enough to know I don’t want to do anymore. I consider mechanics as a sort of hobby and I wasn’t liking doing mechanic work anymore. I didn’t find it enjoyable anymore and along with other factors allowed me to terminate my employment. I’m so glad I did because now I can just focus on my own car and what it needs.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #18 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
I used to set up cars for racing i used to work on lowriders doing hydraulics and NOS stuff like that. But since i got injured and put on disability i cant do it as much as i like to. I love working on engines , i had my own shop in Minneapolis back in the day

That’s really cool to hear man! I think the most interesting thing I worked on in my time was a minty MazdaSpeed Miata (that’s the one with the factory turbo) and I’ve done things on 6 speed mustang as well. But mostly it was a blur of f series trucks and crossovers. I worked as a lube and service tech at a Ford dealer.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #20 · 4 mo ago

Haha nice! I love the Geo Storm too. Such a cool car.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #22 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
If you liked them you would have loved thexone i had , dropped $20,000 into the engine, metallic blue candy paint , limo tint, 2 12 inch kicker comp subs 2,000 watt D class amp.

I so would’ve! Sometimes I feel like I should’ve been born in the 70s. The 90s seem like they were pretty great.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #24 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
The 90s were awsome my hayday lol. I was born in 1980 so i grew up in the 90s

I definitely connect more with 90s cars since my parents always had older vehicles until recently. I think that the 90s were a much more simple time before the mass spread of the internet and such.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #26 · 4 mo ago

Yea that’s true. The internet is a dual edged sword.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #28 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
I read your earlier post from like 2020 and you were talking about a clanking sound you were getting. Did you ever figure out what that was just curious because i think im getting the same thing i think its coming from the area right where my primary tensioner is i bought a new tensioner and that arm block stop iv been hearing about that i plan on installing this week

Well, I think it is my timing chain. Specifically I think the tension has failed, but I’m going to be replacing the timing chain and guides just as a preventative measure.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #30 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
I read your earlier post from like 2020 and you were talking about a clanking sound you were getting. Did you ever figure out what that was just curious because i think im getting the same thing i think its coming from the area right where my primary tensioner is i bought a new tensioner and that arm block stop iv been hearing about that i plan on installing this week

Yeah.

polmanter74 said:
I was just wondering because im actually having the same problem at the moment, i put in a new upgraded timing chain in last summer but i used a cheap primary tensioner i think thats what my property is so i bought a expensive tensioner this time and the stop block for preventive measures View attachment 43061 View attachment 43061

yeah, I think you definitely should get that new tensioner in. That’s something at least if you can afford it that I wouldn’t cheap out on is stuff inside the engine because I wouldn’t want to tear it apart to put another part in that I just replaced. That’s just me.

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JordanS

Discussion Starter · #32 · 4 mo ago

polmanter74 said:
Ya this new tensioner was $85 i think i payed like $17 for the last one so im hoping this one does better. I decided to get the block stop because i know these are interference engines so i would like to prevent my pistons fromvsmashing my brand new valves if i can incase the tensioner decided to brake

Ok. Yea I definitely think that’ll work better for you.

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