You don't really need the tensioner tool. You can improvise with a small pointy object, like a small jeweler's screwdriver, to depress the ball check valve in the tensioner to drain the oil out if it. (You're not repkacing the tensioner with a new OEM one?)
You'll need a valve spring compressor that will fit in the cramped spaces around the valve springs on your engine. This is a good one:
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You might re-read your previous thread for additional suggestions:
Replacing My Timing Chain, Water Pump, and Valve Stem...I've decided to dig into my engine and replace the timing chain along with a couple of "while you're in there" as well (the water pump and the valve stem seals). I think from a post I saw before about replacing the water pump that it should preferably be a Mopar original since it will be the...www.dodgeintrepid.net
Thanks for the rope trick and the suggestions! And I probably would replace the tensioner because I think that’s acting up causing my issue but I’ll just replace the chain, guides, and sprockets while I’m there. Appreciate all your help! Thanks so much!There is a good alternative to using compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders when replacing the valve stem seals. In fact it is less risk for two reasons.
What is this method you ask? It's putting the cylinder you want to work on at BDC, taking some small rope (Ø3/16" woven polyester from Walmart or big box store is ideal) and pushing it thru the spark plug hole - keep feeding it in until the cylinder is mostly full, then turn the crankshaft CW by hand to compress the rope up against the cylinder head. You don't have to worry about trying to get every last inch of rope stuffed in - just keep pushing it in until it is resisting taking anymore - that should be plenty, and you don't have to turn the crankshaft very hard against the head - the piston just needs to be pushing the wad of rope upward moderately hard to keep the valves from dropping.
The advantages of this method are (1) you don't have to have an air compressor or worry about losing electricity or the compressor failing in the middle of the job, and (2) you don't have to worry about moisture from the compressed air condensing out inside the engine and causing rust or swelling of carbon deposits creating a piston-to-head interference (that actually happened to me one time).
So I definitely advise using the string method rather than compressed air.