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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I am in medical school right now and it has fortunately been a few years since having to dig into my intrepid steed. I have done a water pump and timing belt once and it is def due for it again. I have forgotten all.. and most importantly the amount of time required as I have to weigh that and selling it in that balance with very little time available but some strange love for this car haha.

However, my question is regarding any pro tips of how I might quickly determine if this is in fact a very likely water pump failure once again or perhaps something simpler. Since owning the car (2012 and at a discount for it being in an overheat situation just like I am in now) have replaced the water pump, idler pully, intake M. Gasket, coolant reservoir that disintegrated and left me stranded with an overheat, ect ect.. and have also been running the G30 or whatever specialty coolant since pump replacement to try and preserve that idiotic plastic water pump fin assembly for some reasonable amount of time... I have all the parts (WP, TB and even the specialty TB tensioner) but am trying to procrastinate the waterpump TB tear down as I am in the middle of school but do love this car for some odd reason. It left me stranded on rotations with a sudden coolant everywhere overheat, to quick shut off as this car has me hypersensitive to temperatures and thus it has sat after being towed home for a few months. I glanced around hoping to see an obvious hose blown today but didn't see anything. Just wondering if based on the pro experience here, if being already 3K miles past the TB change interval , from the previous water pump and timing belt install, is it likely to be another failed water pump? (The WP was gates but still with that awful plastic fin assembly).. is there anything reasonably quick someone could offer me to check it over and figure out quickly what is going on so I can sell or repair and know what is involved? I have done all the stuff.. the valve body/limp in crap this car requires, been bathed on coolant in a random parking lot now 3 times.. ect.. did the Otis install.. my mind keeps me appreciating this car for some reason and accepting the punishment it deals me.. any help for the intrepid lover in me to have some guidance or starting points for evaluation of scope or likelihood of what I am dealing with here is greatly appreciated.. med pushed out seemingly all I once knew of this high maintenance girlfriend.

Yours truly,

-Mechanic by necessity who forgets all done and generally how to mechanic but usually somehow fixes it before forgetting while in school with 4 kids; Brandon lol!

P.s. I am so glad this group exists. Such cool people here.
 

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There could be a couple of reasons (besides being low in coolant) for overheating - the most likely two are the water pump impeller loose on the shaft (so sitting still while the shaft spins instead of spinning with the shaft and pumping water) - or - the thermostat is stuck closed.

To help figure out the problem:
• Determine if full of coolant, no air pockets.
• With engine cold, you should be able to squeeze the upper radiator hose with engine idling, but it should be more resistant to squeezing the hose when you rev the engine to higher rpm (due to pressure created by the water pump). If the hose still squeezes easily with the engine rev'ed, the pump is not pumping the coolant likely due to impeller exploded or loose on the shaft.
• By process of elimination, if coolant full/no air pockets and water pump is working (you can feel pressure in upper rad hose when rev'ing cold engine), thermostat stuck closed is the likely problem.

Good luck, and hang in there!
 
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Discussion Starter #3
There could be a couple of reasons (besides being low in coolant) for overheating - the most likely two are the water pump impeller loose on the shaft (so sitting still while the shaft spins instead of spinning with the shaft and pumping water) - or - the thermostat is stuck closed.

To help figure out the problem:
• Determine if full of coolant, no air pockets.
• With engine cold, you should be able to squeeze the upper radiator hose with engine idling, but it should be more resistant to squeezing the hose when you rev the engine to higher rpm (due to pressure created by the water pump). If the hose still squeezes easily with the engine rev'ed, the pump is not pumping the coolant likely due to impeller exploded or loose on the shaft.
• By process of elimination, if coolant full/no air pockets and water pump is working (you can feel pressure in upper rad hose when rev'ing cold engine), thermostat stuck closed is the likely problem.

Good luck, and hang in there!
Thanks so much Peva. I gotta buy you dinner sometime now that we span almost half a decade! I really appreciate the time to help me out.. I am so tired as you can probably tell! I appreciate the direction and pick up.

Haha.. serious though give me a few months or so and I am going to send you a gift card or something for dinner. I respect and appreciate people who give part of their lives to help others.. forums and all else.. wherever it is found. Communities and people adding value are so important and grossly undervalued in a "real life" sort of way. Maybe others will consider doing the same for the gurus! I'll PM you in significantly less than 4 years :)
 
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