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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, my dreaded 1391 code seems to be a streched or skipped primary cam chain. With my crank key slot lined up at the "v" mark on the block, the cam sprockets are certainly not at "90 degrees to the valve cover surface", more like 75 or so. Sigh.......
So I ordered a Cloyes C397 primary cam chain for $99. All the sprockets look good, but if they did not, I found this on Ebay for $250..........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Timing-Chain-Kit-Intrepid-2-7-DOHC-98-02-NEW_W0QQitemZ8074924431QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33625QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 

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Get the kit anyway!

Something tells me the kit would be a great investment. The other parts that are included, the tensioner and guides in particular are failure prone on the 2.7, replace them while you are in their, they can take out your engine just as easy as failure of the chain itself.

Kit = $250
Peace of mind = priceless
 

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Aesop said:
Well, my dreaded 1391 code seems to be a streched or skipped primary cam chain. With my crank key slot lined up at the "v" mark on the block, the cam sprockets are certainly not at "90 degrees to the valve cover surface", more like 75 or so. Sigh.......
So I ordered a Cloyes C397 primary cam chain for $99. All the sprockets look good, but if they did not, I found this on Ebay for $250..........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Timing-Chain-Kit-Intrepid-2-7-DOHC-98-02-NEW_W0QQitemZ8074924431QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33625QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Did you check the sensors? Usually this intermittant code is from a dirty or bad sensor or connection.
The chain would really have to stretch quite a bit for this code. And if it has skipped a tooth (unlikely if engine will still run) the colored links on the chain won't line up on the crank and cam drive sprockets.

Are you lining up the marks on the 4 small cam sprockets on the cams near the secondary chains? The mark on the large intake sprocket that the main chain drives only has to align with the colored link on the main chain, there is no real relationship between it and the cyl. head, but it is does line up about 75deg. from the head. The marks on the 4 small cam sprockets are supposed to line up at 90deg. from the valve cover surface when the #1cyl. is at TDC on the exhaust stroke (you can check this without removing the engine front cover, just remove left side valve cover). The crank sprocket marks line up at 60deg. after TDC for the #1 cyl.
With a code 1391 showing up I would double check everything on the wiring and sensor and sensor ring before replacing chain it sure sounds more electrical than mechanical. But if you do have to replace the chain don't forget the water pump and the primary chain tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have changed the cam sensor twice-no help. Changed the crank sensor-no help. No other codes. The colored links are indeed in the correct position, however, the small cam marks are about 75 degrees. Not skipped like I thought, just stretched.
Water pump, yeah, but I am running low on cash. The tensioner can wait a payday.
 

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Note that the dots on the 4 cam sprockets line up at 90deg. from the head when the #1 piston is at the top of the exhaust stroke-- not when the crank mark is lined up with the mark on the block.
The chain would have to stretch beyond the limits of the tensioner for a really noticable performance difference. And even if the chain was stretched it should still give a consistent cam signal to the PCM through the sensor. Might be a late signal that is out of sync with the crank, but that would be another code.
Did you check the metal ring on the cam sprocket that generates the cam signal to make sure it isn't bent or really crudded up? Just the fact that it is an intermittant signal leads you to believe it is a bad electrical connection or ground connection somewhere in the wiring harness or connector pins.
If the tensioner doesnt have a lot of play in it, it can be cleaned and reset to reuse it. But the water pump and chain tensioner are the 2 weak links in the whole engine.
Good Luck!
 

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One other thing to consider- I think that the cam and crank position sensors are the only sensors to use the 8volt supply from the PCM. Most of the other sensors use 5volts. Could be an intermittant connection coming from the PCM or PCM itself, and it would only effect these 2 sensors.
You should have 8volts between the orange(+) wire and the black(-) wire at both sensors with the ignition turned on. The other wire will only have voltage when it is plugged in with engine turning and the voltage will change from 0 to about 4volts as each slot in the sensor ring passes the sensor.
Again Good Luck..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well it looks like the hijinx and hilarity will continue. I am going to install the chain tomorrow, and scream like a banshee when it still doesn't run. Then I will check voltages, and shotgun a comp at it.

Thanx for the help.
 

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Aesop said:
Well it looks like the hijinx and hilarity will continue. I am going to install the chain tomorrow, and scream like a banshee when it still doesn't run. Then I will check voltages, and shotgun a comp at it.

Thanx for the help.
Have faith!!!. It will run. Hope this fixes it :icon_smil
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The chain was no help. It runs exactly the same. Same code............. sigh. Now I will shotgun the engine ECU. My car is a 98, will any other year PCM's work?
 
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