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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well it seems most people with a 2.7 and problems relating to it, post in this forum so I'll post something I just learned here. Don't know if some of this has been said but I'm not about to read every 2.7 post to find out.

The two main causes of 2.7 engine failures seem to be the sludge buildup problem and the timing chain problem. As far as the sludge thing goes most people will say it's due to lack of timely oil changes. But that's not what this thread is about.
The other problem which is the timing chain letting go and then the resulting engine damage when it does let go. My concern is that some blown 2.7's can be misdiagnosed as an automatic sludge problem when in fact the culprit was the timing chain tensioner. Wether they are misdiagnosed on purpose or not, who knows. This is where your trusted mechanic comes in.

If you have an engine noise out of the ordinary it's in your best interest not to run the engine any longer especially if it's coming from the timing chain area up front. If the timing chain lets go, you're looking at alot of engine damage. If the noise is from the timing chain and you can keep it from getting worse, you might be able to fix it with just a timing chain tensioner. Previously I thought the tensioner was located within the engine which would require a partial teardown to get at it. Well, it is within the engine but there's an access plate to get at it located on the passenger's side of the engine near the front and right below the rocker cover. While not as easy as the 3.2's or 3.5's, never the less it is accessible from the outside.

Now I don't know at what point the Mopar timing chain tensioner was changed to a new style with larger oil passages but it would be worthwhile changing the tensioner to the newer style to prevent an expensive engine change.

The 2.7's are actually built stronger than the 3.5's or 3.2's but the above two problems aren't giving it a good reputation.

The timing chain tensioner is actually an easy change. It sits on the side by the #1 cylinder, held by two bolts, undue the bolts and it pops out.
 

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YB Normyl said:
The 2.7's are actually built stronger than the 3.5's or 3.2's but the above two problems aren't giving it a good reputation.
Well written Jose. (The whole post that is).

I do not have this problem but I am curious... what sound does the timing chain make? Is it the infamous "tick, tick, tick" sound?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To tell you the truth, I've never heard one with a timing chain problem but it would depend on what stage of the problem it's at.
I could start with the engine running rough, like the timing is out and then, yes it would develope a ticking as the cam timing is thrown off which would then lead to more serious damage.
 

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Great info yb.... I've made sure that our car has been kept up on the oil changes since we bought it... usually change the oil around 2800 miles... hardly ever hits 3000 but sometimes it does but never goes past!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure if there are any TSB's on the tensioner. If anyone has easy access to do a search, can you post the results. If there is a TSB then the tensioner change should be under warranty.
 

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Since about 75% of my cars life was a city life, I am now planning to have my timing chain replaced when I reach 85,000 miles. Or I my dad offers to pay for it. :)

--Gorm
 

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Remeber that the 2.7L has 3 chains. Primary chain will fail first, but the secondarys should be eventually changed (shouldn't they...?).

Water pump absolutely should be changed with the main chain. Make sure the sealing surface on the block is clean.
 

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I've herd timing chains make noise (ie on the explorer and ranger 4.0 sohc engines)

Basicly imagine the sound of a metal link chain (the kind you use to lock things up) draging on pavement over bumps and such. Will sound kinda like that.

But be aware of any sorta 'chingy' or metalic ping sounds you hear.
 

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The secondary chains are roller chains. The primary chain is a 'silent' chain. I can hear (and see) the primary chain flopping around. and by see, I cut away the black plastic in the oil fill so I can see. I cut it away with a dremel. first I cut a hole and then threaded a string so the piece, once cut away, would not fall in the engine. I then cut lateraly with a lateral cutting bit. I then changed the oil the next day.

Damn interference engine and crappy chain tensioner.
 

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Yes, cam chain noise is rythmical.Mine ticked and sounded a lot
like a collapsed hydraulic lifter-except for the location of the sound.The guide plate broke at one mounting point.and you could also see wear on the block where the chain stretched enough to rub .Broke teeth on a cam gear and water pump sprocket also resulted...
 

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YB Normyl said:

The 2.7's are actually built stronger than the 3.5's or 3.2's but the above two problems aren't giving it a good reputation.
Not good news for 3.2 and 3.5 owners.
 

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Re: Re: 2.7 engine noise

adaptabl said:
Not good news for 3.2 and 3.5 owners.
Well, the 3.2/3.5s have been proven to be very strong engines. So that is a high standard.

Something I should also mention. An oil pressure gauge would really be a good investment for 2.7L owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: Re: Re: 2.7 engine noise

hypnos said:
Well, the 3.2/3.5s have been proven to be very strong engines. So that is a high standard.

Something I should also mention. An oil pressure gauge would really be a good investment for 2.7L owners.
Excellent Idea Hypnos. :thumbsup:
 

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how would you 'adjust' the tensioner though? you have to push it in and let it pop back out to adjust to the chain and give it proper tension. Or is just putting it in 100% extended enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
dodgemark said:
how would you 'adjust' the tensioner though? you have to push it in and let it pop back out to adjust to the chain and give it proper tension. Or is just putting it in 100% extended enough?
The manual says you have to push it down then put it in.
 

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on the 2.7L , yes, you put the tensioner in compressed, but then you have to apply pressure to the guide (which has to be done with the valve covers off from above with a long screw driver or pry bar, which compresses the tensioner a bit more, and allows it to 'pop' out. This applies pressure to the guide, which presses against the chain.
 

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I'm trying to find a sensor combination to give pressure in PSI
and temp in Farenheit on a LCD readout that will mount on the driver's side window 'sail' panel. Work on 12v...
gotta be one out "there" that I can find.. I've got some NASA
sites searching manufacturers for me...I'll let ya'll know when I find one.
Someone told me they are common on rails (drag cars) now...
 

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here's a good(dumb) - ? - for all yall, say i dont change the timeing chain on my 2.7L(104k miles) and it gives way, what are all the stuff that goes bad besides the engine, will i blow my tanyy etc.?
like i said dumb ?

ALi
 
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