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Discussion Starter #1
Hello: anybody out there with 2.7 rebuild experience: do you know about, or have you heard about any crank/oil galley mods that can be done on these motors that helps overall longevity/prevention of problems? Thanks for any input
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm just curious, because I talked to a guy in the midwest recently who says that he's done quite a few 2.7's and he modifies the gallies and the crank, but he wouldn't share what he does. I guess there are guys who've discovered secrets about these motors while rebuilding them, and it would be nice if any belong to this forum and wouldn't mind sharing their knowledge with those who may wish to rebuild their own engines.
 

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I'd just go and open up some return lines and see how it runs... Then go buy new heads or a new motor when you toast that one, and try again - that is why these guys don't freely share the knowledge - yes, it'd be nice, but they invested a lot of money into doing this, they need to recoup that money through engine sales.
 

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If it's a '98 or '99, replace the oil pump. They redesigned it for higher capacity (plug-n-play).

Replace the valve stem seals to correct or prevent high oil usage and smokey exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I thought I'd give it a shot, anyway. If I don't do anything to the oil gallies when I rebuild this 2.7 I have, I'm going to at least install an aftermarket liquid-to-air engine oil cooler to help keep oil temps down. I know it seems most guys don't/won't want to mess with the 2.7, but I want to for my own knowledge and experience, so I'm going to just see what I can see as I'm disassembling it, and I'll more than likely gain something that'll be helpful not just to myself, but to anyone else that wishes to do their own engine(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I saw some aftermarket units on a website, and they had several options, according to engine power output. They had two types: one which locates the filter remotely, and one that uses an adapter sandwiched between the filter and the original filter pad on the engine. The interchanger or cooler itself, I would probably try to mount it on the front side of the rad/condenser unit, where it would hopefully get sufficient airflow.
 

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:hijack:

Sorry....Exactly how much of a PITA was it to change out the exhaust valve seals?
 

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:hijack:

Sorry....Exactly how much of a PITA was it to change out the exhaust valve seals?
It's not difficult, Dave - it just takes a bit of time as you work on one cylinder at a time - stuffing it with heavy string/light rope (I *highly* recommend that vs. using compressed air) and removing each spring. Hard on the back being as you'll be standing, leaned over, for extended periods of time.

I would suggest replacing intake and exhaust seals. I don't know if oil only gets sucked by the exhaust valve stem if all stems are bad, but I can say that I couldn't tell *any* difference between the exhaust and intake valve seals - they were all discolored and *very* hard.

You can't use a generic valve spring removal tool. It requires the "one-man" overhead type compressor. I have a feeling you have access to the Chrysler special tool. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't know, haven't started the rebuild on the 2.7 yet: just found out I have to redo the 3.2 that I bought to put into my '01 Intrepid. Decided to pull the pan just to check things out, and I'm glad I did, because to go through all the work of putting it in and then hearing a couple of rods knocking would have been
VERY AGGRAVATING to say the least.
 
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