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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry, previous threads didn't quite answer these questions. I've got my 2.7 parts at a machine shop, e.g. re-sleeve of #5 cylinder (yes, it can be done and Rockauto has the sleeves), rod inspection, resize or replacement, crank restoration or crank kit etc. for worn rod bearings and I've been looking over the engine reinstallation text from two sources. One has you removing the heads, manifolds, intake etc. when removing it and one source (more factory oriented) shows the complete engine being lowered into the engine bay. I 've gone over in my head what needs to clear what, and it seems the whole enchilada can go in. Anyone got advice.
Also the torque converter stayed on the tranny. I'd like to pull it off to change a leaking seal behind it. But the last time I pulled a torque converter it up-chucked transmission fluid all over the garage floor I was using. When reading other threads on the subject no one mentions it.
BTW the floor is already a mess from taking the tranny pan off. There just isn't a big enough receptacle (pan) in my inventory to catch all of it. Anyone install an after market drain plug in one?
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Engine can definitely go in as a complete assembly. No problem. Strut tower brace and radiator support must be off; assuming it is already on yours. Leave the motor mounts off; and it makes it much easier to line it up with the trans before you bolt it in.

As far as the torque converter, make sure it is seated fully in the transmission before installing the engine. It wont leak any fluid when you pull it off unless you turn it over on the input shaft side. Just taking it off and putting it on a bench wont leak any fluid if you keep the input shaft side up.

Trans drain plug, I could go either way; they are nice; I've done a ton of trans services just got an oversize fluid catch pan that fits in the top of my drain pan to contain the splatter. Its less with a drain plug but not non existent if you are taking the pan off to change the filter.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Just "Stick It In" ! LOL!
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Hoop! There it is!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reassurance. It will save a lot of time, bleeding knuckle's, and add the fun of sitting patiently to build it back on it's stand. The tip on the mounts is invaluable since it's got fixed studs sticking out all over. Apparently the engine/trans package is dropped onto the frame during assembly.
I should have been more careful with the tranny fluid/filter change. I'll use one of those plastic containers that fit under beds next time AND jack the car a little higher since the maintenance schedule calls for changing the fluid a little more often than most.
BTW I took off the torque converter w/no issues. Except there's evidence of a slight fluid leak at the bottom the the bell housing and the tranny pan is covered with fluid. But it doesn't appear to be coming from the trans shaft. It fact, I can't tell where it coming from. With it out the front axel is exposed running across lower part of the housing. Fortunately what ever was/is leaking didn't come from one of those seals either. Thank God. I can't imagine what it would take to replace those.
As to Ronbo's "tips" I appreciate them. Brings back memories. Gotta' have some fun with all this.
 

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Glad I could be of valuable assistance ....heh
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is the best valve spring compressor to use for the 2.7 heads? I'll be getting a complete engine gasket set that includes valve stem seals but I'm not having the heads "done". They were fine before. But I'd like to use the new seals since I'll have them and there seems to be a history with them failing.
 

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What is the best valve spring compressor to use for the 2.7 heads? I'll be getting a complete engine gasket set that includes valve stem seals but I'm not having the heads "done". They were fine before. But I'd like to use the new seals since I'll have them and there seems to be a history with them failing.
Good decision to replace the valve stem seals. 👍

Either one of the below kits will do it - I got an earlier version of the same design as those kits to do mine. Worked great. I paid close to twice that much on ebay 10 or 12 years ago. Don't let all the parts in the case scare you - you'll need only 5 pieces out of that whole kit.

Search ebay for "one man valve spring compressor", and choose by price, delivery time, and seller rating from only the kits that are exactly like on of these two:


 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank You, as always, Peva. It's been awhile since I've needed one so your advice was invaluable since there's a gazillion different types depending whether it's a 302 Coyote or a twelve cylinder Merlin P-51 engine. I should get it by the 2nd.
I'm kinda' bummed. I bought Amazon Prime for the year but the same kit is $64 on Amazon as opposed to $53 on E-Bay w/free shipping.
For everyone else, this is the kinda' thing you wish you had when you needed it. Getting valve springs off with the wrong tool can do damage.
 
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