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You say there are two thermostats on the Sebring? I'd be surprised if so. Some people think there is a thermostat on top-front if the engine, but, unless the Sebring is different than the LH cars in that regard, what looks like it may be a thermostat housing only connects the engine to the upper radiator hose.

I could be totally wrong about everything I've said about the Sebring thermostat, so go with what you know and can confirm on that.
 

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Where I said "Valve stem seals: By replacing them now, you'd just be delaying them going bad by another 61k miles - but like you said, you want to avoid having to go into this stuff again.", again, doing them now will add a bit if time to this job. and you will also need a certain type of valve spring compressor for these engines called an "overhead" or "one-man" valve spring compressor - ebay or Amazon, about $50-60.
 

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All my parts have been ordered and arrived !! I will let you know how it goes. Thansk for all advice !
Prob going to do it in a week or so
 

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(y)
 

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Hey I’m back :))
Question on hand cranking the engine

So I have finally gotten around to doing this repair job, been very busy with work. I have taken the engine almost completely apart and I am trying to rotate the camshaft to align the timing marks and it won’t go… ( it’s in Neutral and rotating it from the intake sprocket )

we took out thespark plugs to potentialy alleviate pressure and The timing chain is still on it so I really don’t think it’s out of time and causing interference with the valves and the piston….

I hope this question hasn’t already been asked but I’m am totally confused towhy I can’t hand crank it over

it looks kinda like the part the doesn’t want to move is the drive shaft but I just guessing and don’t really know

any and all help is appreciated :)) you guys have been so helpfully so far
 

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Since the chain is on, you should rotate the engine by rotating the crankshaft, not the camshaft. But if it still won't rotate with no more than light-to-moderate turning force on the crankshaft, then your timing may be out. Is it in time now or not? (Of course you know not to force it to turn if you're getting solid "brick wall" resistance.)

If the engine is in time, then another possibility is that carbon deposits in the combustion chamber have swelled due to absorption of moisture while sitting this long. I had that happen on mine because when I replaced the valve stem seals, I used compressed air to hold the valves up while working on each cylinder and moisture in the compressed air caused that to happen (I didn't have moisture traps on my simple home compressor setup). I guess it's also possible for deposits to swell just from moisture in the air if it sits unused for a while in humid weather. If this is the case, I can talk you thru how to get the carbon deposits out without having to take the heads off.

Your timing being off is a more likely and simple explanation, so don't assume the problem is swelled up carbon deposits unless you are 100% certain the cams are in time.

So - the most important question is: Is your engine presently in time or not?


If it is out of time, you need to drop one or both cam sprockets to be able to re-time it. Depending on the positions of the cams relative to the crankshaft, you may have to piece-wise sequence the cams and crankshaft to get past piston-valve interference situations (trying to avoid your having to remove the camshaft bearing blocks to lift the camshafts out to re-time). It may help to know that if you can get the crankshaft close to any 60°-from-TDC position (the crankshaft sprocket mark pointing to the oil pump mark or any position 120° from that), you will then be free to rotate the camshafts (with the crankshaft staying in one of the 60° positions) to and thru any position without piston-valve interference.
 

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Again you rock!
Thanks I was just being an idiot and rotating it from the cam sprocket it rotates great from the crankshaft :)

also thank you for the timing info, it turns out my engine was slightly out of time, both can sprockets are about 2 links off when the crank mark is lined up, will line up when I put it back hopefully tonight or tomorrow.
 

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Glad to be of help.

Remember that there is 2-to-1 gearing ratio between crankshaft and cams, so all friction in the bottom end, pistons, etc. doubles the torque you have to apply if applying to a cam instead of the crankshaft.

Good luck!
 

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Back again! This has been a long journey, the hardest part has been making me and my brothers schedule line up.

I do have a question / problem :)

so everything is reassembled and it won’t start.
we have determined it has spark by pulling a plug and cranking
We know it has air as it is sucking air when when you hold your hand by intake
I guess we are not positive it has fuel

something weird that has been happening is that there is a pop ofback pressure or somthing in the air intake after enough cranks

looking this up some poeple think it is out of time we were very confident it was timed right.
We tried starter fluid in the intake and it popped and made a flame 👀
Any suggestions would be amazing!!
 

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Sounds like timing issue to me too.
 

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something in timing is wrong.
if you have spark on these engines, then you have fuel, from a computer timing standpoint.
are the coil and injector leads on the right sides of the engine?
have you pulled a coil and checked to see if it's actually sparking?
starting fliud should give you better than a little pop at the end.
have any codes show up after cranking/
 

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When you have the primary chain timed right and the crankshaft sprocket mark pointing at the mark on the oil pump, everything should look exactly like the below sketch from the FSM that I marked up in red to emphasize the important features:
41856


The scondary timing would be verified before that for 12 secondary chain pins between secondary sprocket marks as shown below. Note that the sketch below shows as it would look with no. 1 cylinder at TDC - NOT at 60° ATDC like it would be with the crankshaft sprocket mark pointing at mark on oil pump. But if you didn't disturb the secondary timing, you shouldn't have to worry about that:
41857
 
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