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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so I have some questions regarding how to make my 2000 2.7L perform better and last longer. This includes some maintenance questions, but I do have a service manual copy on hand.

Completed Repairs/Upgrades
Upgraded audio
New oil pressure switch
Catback exhaust
New front struts
New front lower control arms
New driver's side sway bar link
New tie rod assemblies
New front brake pads

Planned Repairs/Upgrades
Fix the driver's side rear door handle
Replace driver's side lock switch
K&N CAI (Not sure if I should just get the Spectre intake instead, would really appreciate some advice since the Spectre is so much cheaper)
Body work
Engine tune-up
Transmission tune-up
A/S Conversion
Upgraded sway bar (not sure whether front or back is the better option)
Might make my fake hood scoop an actual one for ambient cooling lmao
New wheels/tires
General cosmetic work

Performance
Are there any genuinely reliable performance chips? I know that most of the ones on Google are scams, but are there any genuine ones I can still find? That or ECU flash kits.

Would a dyno shop be able to help me tune my ECU? I know that the ECU isn't typical in the sense that it wasn't made to be messed with, but has anyone gotten an ECU tune done?

Any other recommendations? Keep in mind I don't have a very high budget for anything, but assuming I maintain this car, it should last me long enough to get everything in good condition and performance.

Longevity
Since I've dumped 1.5k into this car and no longer plan to sell it, I need tips for how to make it last as long as possible.

I'm hoping to try and replace the water pump on my own. I'm good at auto repair as long as I have the steps in front of me, and I have the service manual, etc. With that said, when should I replace it and with what water pump? I know they made an upgraded version that allowed it to not leak and cause oil sludge. If I'm gonna soup up this car I might as well make it last nice and long 🤷‍♀️

What other major things should I consider getting checked/fixed?
 

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I know we had discussions in your previous threads, but don't remember what exact things we did and did not discuss, so I will cover what comes to mind regardless.

Don't know how many miles are on it, but expect the valve stem seals to go somewhere between 100k and 200k miles. You'll know that's what is going on when if it starts using oil like crazy and you get plumes of smoke out of the exhaust when you punch it at highway speeds right after decelerating without using the brakes and sometimes on cold startup. (You may not notice the smoke from the driver's seat because of poor rearward vision, but people following behind you definitely will).

No doubt you know to change the oil and filter routinely at 4500 to 5000 miles if using synthetic oil.

With very few exceptions, on critical parts (like water pump, chain tensioner, sensors, coolant reservoir, etc.), go with OEM parts only. From aftermarket, get PCV valve and improved version of toe adjusting sleeves (get the ones with the large hex vs. OEM-design with knurled grip).

A higher percentage of commuting highway miles is much better than mostly in-town driving.

Do regular maintenance on the PCV system.

Use only ATF+4 for transmission and power steering fluid. Use only HOAT/G05 coolant - change it every 100k miles.

Check all metal brake and power steering lines for severe/pit corrosion. Depending on where you are, not unusual for them to corrode thru and rupture at this age.

Don't take any wooden nickels!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know we had discussions in your previous threads, but don't remember what exact things we did and did not discuss, so I will cover what comes to mind regardless.

Don't know how many miles are on it, but expect the valve stem seals to go somewhere between 100k and 200k miles. You'll know that's what is going on when if it starts using oil like crazy and you get plumes of smoke out of the exhaust when you punch it at highway speeds right after decelerating without using the brakes and sometimes on cold startup. (You may not notice the smoke from the driver's seat because of poor rearward vision, but people following behind you definitely will).

No doubt you know to change the oil and filter routinely at 4500 to 5000 miles if using synthetic oil.

With very few exceptions, on critical parts (like water pump, chain tensioner, sensors, coolant reservoir, etc.), go with OEM parts only. From aftermarket, get PCV valve and improved version of toe adjusting sleeves (get the ones with the large hex vs. OEM-design with knurled grip).

A higher percentage of commuting highway miles is much better than mostly in-town driving.

Do regular maintenance on the PCV system.

Use only ATF+4 for transmission and power steering fluid. Use only HOAT/G05 coolant - change it every 100k miles.

Check all metal brake and power steering lines for severe/pit corrosion. Depending on where you are, not unusual for them to corrode thru and rupture at this age.

Don't take any wooden nickels!
awesome! thanks so much! do you happen to know abt my q about intakes? i.e. will the spectre civic intake work around as well as the k&n cai?
 

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awesome! thanks so much! do you happen to know abt my q about intakes? i.e. will the spectre civic intake work around as well as the k&n cai?
I have no idea about that.
 

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awesome! thanks so much! do you happen to know abt my q about intakes? i.e. will the spectre civic intake work around as well as the k&n cai?
Neither CAI will improve performance in any way other than lightening your wallet.
 

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Then buy the most expensive one ! Why not apply that money to other needed/upcoming maintenance items?

You can't replace your needed door pull for $50 but want to get an intake that does nothing?

Or your "Planned" "Engine Tune Up" which should include new Spark Plugs/Engine Oil & Filter/Air Filter/ PCV Valve? Do you want to keep your car running well or just have some under hood bling that no one would normally see or give a crap about? LOL!

And better start saving up for your Water Pump maintenance job that's going to be pricey and labor intensive. If the water pump "grenades"....you'll have a clunker sitting in the driveway worth maybe $200 in scrap value if you can't repair it economically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Then buy the most expensive one ! Why not apply that money to other needed/upcoming maintenance items?

You can't replace your needed door pull for $50 but want to get an intake that does nothing?

Or your "Planned" "Engine Tune Up" which should include new Spark Plugs/Engine Oil & Filter/Air Filter/ PCV Valve? Do you want to keep your car running well or just have some under hood bling that no one would normally see or give a crap about? LOL!

And better start saving up for your Water Pump maintenance job that's going to be pricey and labor intensive. If the water pump "grenades"....you'll have a clunker sitting in the driveway worth maybe $200 in scrap value if you can't repair it economically.
thanks for the response! id appreciate if you weren’t passive aggressive about my car decisions! it’s almost like those “planned repairs” will come out of my pocket and “my birthday” is coming up and “my non car savvy parents” might pick some of those non required things up! thanks for the super helpful and informative reply that answered questions i asked !
tldr: i’m not stupid. i’ve ordered **** for the doors and don’t have a lot of money in pocket so i was considering getting **** done that i cant afford.
 

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Does your car have factory 15" or 16" wheels? If looking at brake rotors there are 2 different sizes. Just something to watch out for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does your car have factory 15" or 16" wheels? If looking at brake rotors there are 2 different sizes. Just something to watch out for.
theyre 16s, rn im trying to find mostly hp upgrades but i know that there arent many other than a full engine swap. kinda disappointing tbh
 

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Please measure the diameter of the existing rotor. I have 16 inch wheels but the smaller rotors made for 15 inch wheels.
 

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Please measure the diameter of the existing rotor. I have 16 inch wheels but the smaller rotors made for 15 inch wheels.
I don't think that wheel/rotor size combination came from the factory - I could be wrong. I believe you either got steel 15 inch wheels and the smaller front rotors, or 16" wheels and larger front rotors from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't think that wheel/rotor size combination came from the factory - I could be wrong. I believe you either got steel 15 inch wheels and the smaller front rotors, or 16" wheels and larger front rotors from the factory.
gotcha, probably ****ed up the measurement on the rotors but the knuckle is definitely 16
 

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gotcha, probably ****ed up the measurement on the rotors but the knuckle is definitely 16
I was replying to Steve57 about having smaller rotors with 16" wheels. If I read your post correctly, you have the larger front rotors with 16" wheels - which is what is expected (from the factory).

If a car has 16's and smaller rotors, it could have started with 15's and smaller rotors and someone upgraded to 16" wheels or it started out with 16's and larger rotors and someone mistakenly replaced the rotors with the smaller rotors (which happened a lot because for years, all of aftermarket erroneously listed the smaller rotors for PHP applications). It was impossible to go the other way (i.e., put the larger front rotors on a car that came from the factory with smaller rotors unless the knuckle was changed out to accommodate the larger rotor. (I did upgrade to the larger front rotors on my '99 Concorde that came with 15" steelies and smaller front rotors by changing to 16" wheels and swapping out the knuckles.)
 
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As you may already know, there are two "flavors" of larger front rotors. They are the same size, but the venting of one is from engine side to curb side, and the other, called PHP (Performance Handling Package), is the opposite. They are completely interchangeable between each other. I think in theory, the PHP were supposed to cool themselves a little better, but I'm not sure that made much difference in the whole scheme of things. The gain with either one was the larger diameter for braking effect and more thermal mass for absorbing heat.
 
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