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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, am hoping some here could shed some light on this problem.

About a month ago, I pulled up at a store, came out 10 minutes later to a no start - click only, no crank. Battery is good, I thought, but it started with a boost.

Took it to a well-regarded shop, it started fine for them multiple times - they never saw a no start issue, but they replaced my old alternator, claiming it had failed the diode test with their AVR tester.

NINE DAYS go by - all good

Then ... started car in garage - much more noise under hood! Key off, engine stops, but starter keeps cranking! Checking the power distribution center, I see all the relays are same part number - so I swap out the possibly suspect starter motor relay for another.

NINETEEN DAYS go by - all good

Then, this weekend, back to first symptom: key on to start, click only, no crank. Tried it multiple times - can't get it started.

Other issue noted - one engine ground strap is no longer connected to firewall. Power windows don't work (just prior to these starter issues) - possible broken wiring in driver's door pass thru (I've previously seen & repaired similar issue with trunk remote release wiring)

SO...

Is the problem the starter, or the ignition starter switch? Very curious how the starter can continue to get power to activate, and try to crank when the key is in the off position.

No other apparent abnormalities observed in the dash lights / accessory operation.

Code scan via key rock back & forth method - P0302 cyl 2 misfire (its been doing that a while), and P1684 - TCM disconnected from battery power B+ or ground. My neighbour has a OBDII reader - it only reads P0302.

Engine is the 3.2L
 

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The 'intermittent click - no start' is often due worn out contacts in the starter solenoid (part of 3.2/3.5 Nippon starter).

It is possible (but unusual) that the solenoid contacts would also be sticking closed. You can get replacement contacts from Amazon for under $15 (including shipping). Hardly anything else ever goes wrong in these starters, so it's a much better deal than replacing the factory starter with a questionable aftermarket one. The Victory Lap brand contacts are preferred over some of the other brands sold at the parts stores because it also includes a new plunger, and is cheaper, so you get more for less $$. Stupid to replace the contacts without changing the plunger (as it is also contains the other half of the copper contact wear surface).

The next time the starter stays engaged, whack the starter solenoid with a tool or stick and see if that will break it loose. That will prove that it is the solenoid contacts.

When the starter kept cranking on its own, before you shut the engine off, you said there was more noise from the engine. Know that when the engine is running, the PCM prevents the key from running the starter, so that rules out the ignition switch.

My bet is on bad solenoid contacts.

https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-34SOL-Solenoid-Repair/dp/B0031HMS7C/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chrysler|39&Model=300M|246&Year=2003|2003&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
 

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On other issues, replace the ground strap, and troubleshoot fix the power window issue.

On cyl. 2 misfire, if still there after replacing ground strap, move the spark plug and ign. coil to different cylinders and see if the code moves to one of the other cylinders. Spark plugs worn or improperly gapped?
 
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