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I have own the above mentioned car, it was a great runner and well maintained automobile. Until, I noticed coolant mixed in with my oil. The car never over heated and never stopped running. So, I decided to use bars head gasket leak FIX. The one you dont need to flush out anything, just put into your coolant. Of, course I changed my oil and filter prior too, adding in the bars and running the car for the recommended 20 min. Well the leak sealed really quick. Almost to good. Except, the next morning I drove the car about 2.5 miles from my house and the car stalled. Check my oil, no coolant in it, there was no coolant on my engine either. I haven't been able to start the car since. It will crank over, but not start. Sounds like it wants to go, but no go. My first thought was my fuel pump. I have a nosey fuel pump and was thinking, right before I noticed that I had coolant mixed into my cars oil, I was heading to the gas station because I was really low on gas. But, I can here it turn on right before I start the car. I used scanner on my car and recieved no codes. I also, thought maybe I used to much bars and I clogged something. Maybe my fuel filter. Does anyone have any thoughts ?
 

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This is the behavior often seen with a failed cam position sensor, particularly when there are no codes. It is believed that the PCM must see a certain number of misfires before setting the cam sensor code, but the sensor usually totally fails before that number of misfires is reached. Sometimes the sensor failure is intermittent, and the engine will start up and run for a while if the ignition is turned off and back on.

Sometimes when it fails, you will find that the engine will start and run up to, IIRC, 2900 rpm if you disconnect the cam position sensor. If you find that to be the case, it is definitely a bad cam position sensor. (The PCM uses the crank position sensor to time the ignition below 2900 rpm, and switches over to the cam position sensor at 2900 rpm and above.) But - if it doesn't start with the sensor disconnected, the sensor could still be bad. (Some failures of the cam position sensor also cause the crank position sensor not to work; other failures of the cam position sensor don't affect the operation of the crank position sensor.) You might also see if the +5 volt sensor power from the PCM is present with the cam position sensor connected and disconnected - the sensor's failure could be pulling down the +5 volt sensor power bus.

It is suggested to replace both the cam and crank position sensors, and only with ones from a Chrysler dealer.
 
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