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Discussion Starter #1
Driving me crazy but the car runs fine for a few days and then starts stalling again and the check engine light goes on. I have replaced the cam and crank sensor and the map sensor. The fuel pump and pressure seem to be fine mech. checked this out for me. Anyone have any other suggestions for this ? Check engine light is flashing now? Thanks
 

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Have you done the key dance to see what code is being thrown? Turn key, from Off to On (last key position before starting) three times and look at the odometer for the code(s) to show.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
havent done the key dance but when car was in the shop my mech. said it was throwing a bunch of codes. So they looked for vac leaks and bad grounds on top of the other work they did with cam and crank senors. May be time to sell!! lol
 

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Did anything change after replacing the cam and crank sensors? Hopefully OEM parts were used for those - our cars generally don't like the aftermarket sensors.
 

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same thing happened to mine couple days ago. Fixed problem by changing out my Barrometric Pressusre Sensor. Check engine light went off and everything. Hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter #6
took car back to mech. and things are pointing back to the new cam that was installed a few weeks age. I keep hearing that the after market parts dont work with these cars. I did mention that to the guy from NAPA and he didnt like my answer!! I hope this takes care of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok story continues with my car took back to mech. codes kept showing cam sensor again. He told me the aftermarket parts dont work in these cars so he replaced with new cam senor made for this car!! So much for the theory they are the cure all for this problem bcause 2 days later car stalling again. Check engine light back on and running like crap. Ready to sell car is dangerous to drive.
 

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...So much for the theory they are the cure all for this problem bcause 2 days later car stalling again...
Not sure whose theory *that* is, but the theory *here* is that if the sensor itself is the problem, that would fix it. On the other hand, a new OEM sensor could go bad too - frustrating if that is the case.

You know for sure that he got the new sensor from a dealer? You might ask him that. A brand that is the same that went in at the factory but that came from the aftermarket supply chain does *not* mean that it is graded to the same standards as the ones from the dealers.

If you find that the latest did not come from a dealer, I would give it one more shot with one that did.

Also, it would be nice to know the codes like Batcavetrep suggested a few days ago. You said it was throwing a bunch of codes. That could mean systemic problems like a bad sensor ground or power supply which would affect a bunch of sensors and throw a bunch of codes.

So - what are the codes presently being thrown?
 

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not sure what codes came up he just told me it shot a bunch of codes.Im pretty sure he didnt get this part from a dodge dealer he told me that he can get dealer parts at any auto supply store. As you could tell im very bent about so many different stories. What is an OEM sensor? thanks for any help
 

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An OEM sensor is one you buy from a dealer. OEM=Original Equipment Manufacturer. A sensor that was manufactured by a company specifically for a particular car manufacturer.
 

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not sure what codes came up he just told me it shot a bunch of codes.Im pretty sure he didnt get this part from a dodge dealer he told me that he can get dealer parts at any auto supply store. As you could tell im very bent about so many different stories. What is an OEM sensor? thanks for any help
OEM means you buy it from a dealer. If not from dealer, it is aftermarket - even if made by the OEM manufacturer, even if the Chrysler part number is stamped on it. Trust me - OEM manufacturers screen parts, and if it falls out of the quality parameters, it drops to a second, much looser set of parameters, and if within those, gets sold off into the aftermarket world - that's why there are *lots* of problems in the aftermarket world with electrical parts.

No guarantee, but you will likely have success if you get the part from a Chrysler dealer - you might just be another owner to prove the myth to be true. :)

Local dealer will be quicker (if they stock the sensor), but on-line dealers will be cheaper by 25 to 35% (less shipping - typically 8-12$) (examples: www.wholesalemopar.com, factorydiscountparts.com)

The frustration is understood - we've all been there at one time or another. Hang in there.
 

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i would also recommend like others say to do the key dance yourself it really is simple like said before just turn key to on/off position (not cranking engine) 3 times and your check engline light will flash count the number of flash and itl will have a space for the next number for example.... light flash 4 times then pause then flash 5 times means a code 45, get all the codes and post back here and people will be able to help you much more

i personally never trust a mech or anyone dealing with car parts cuz they will say generally whatever gets you to buy something (napa wasnt very happy as well when i told em im not using their aftermarket sensor), claimed they get theirs from dealer... yea right, id try and get the full lowdown on the sensor then if you need to get the OEM, but the codes could lead you in a diff direction so i would do that first

p.s. if you decide to sell make sure to make a post on the website, im sure theirs someone here who would take her under their wing =)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did the key dance and the check engine light didnt flash at all just stayed on? Turned key 3 times left on after 3rd try and no flashes or codes showed on odmeter?
Thanks for answering questions i went to mech. today and told him they need to be dealer parts only.
We are not using car currently to dangerous to drive. It started up today a bunch of times for me seems ok cold but when it gets alittle hot and it stalls then doesnt want to run good after that?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok guys we replaced crank senor (dealer type) and they found a wire with a small break in it that corrected the stalling problem. Much better.
 
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