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2002 SXT 3.5L Intermittent No start

726 Views 15 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  peva
Hello, I'm trying to remove a python security system from my 2002 intrepid sxt 3.5l and return it to stock wiring, it's the suspect cause of an intermittent no start condition that the vehicle is currently in once again. I can not find any wiring diagrams and the links for the factory service manual seem to be dead... If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. It looks like an absolute mess of wires and I do not want to turn an intermittent no start into a permanent one by jumping in with no diagrams...
EDIT for people just reading: Security system has been uninstalled with no improvement in symptoms... Car still is just clicking at the solenoid. Somehow... pictures attached for laughs of what came out.

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PM me your email address and I can send you a link to the file via Drop Box.
PM me your email address and I can send you a link to the file via Drop Box.
Thanks Peva sent you a pm!
I have received the wiring diagram from peva, the python security system has been uninstalled - boy was that a mess. Whoever installed it did a pretty rough job. There were melted fuses under the dash found off of the aftermarket fuse block they used, all the wires tapped into the bcm and ignition harness under the steering wheel were complete hack jobs.

However, unfortunately, this 3 year intermittent starting issue still doesn't seem to be fixed. Now to be fair, I'm writing this before looking at the wire diagram peva sent me, I was impatient and just went for taking it out, all tapped into wires have been repaired with electrical tape. The only wire that was cut into two halves from what I can tell in the ignition harness under the wheel and spliced into a fuse block - which then was spliced into the bigger fuse block they added (the one with melted fuse) was a thicker gauge yellow wire. I have spliced this wire back together and deleted the python security module, the included shock absorber, the fuse blocks and repaired all hacked into wires with electrical tape.

Yet the issue still remains. Go to start the car - starter solenoid just clicks. This car has a good battery, good starter, good alternator, the jump post is also temporarily deleted as a suspect. All fuses have been checked and are good. I truly am getting to my wits end with this car. I've fixed everything wrong electrically but I can not figure this specific starting issue out. I thought for sure after seeing the melted fuses alongside this poorly installed aftermarket security system that this was it...
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Here's some pictures. The yellow arrow points to the reconnected yellow ignition wire. The red arrow points to the wire ran through the firewall connecting to PDC main power source. My concern is that there's a 12 volt power (like the one they used) wire I'm missing that's disconnected? Or does this look to be back to normal spec. The next thing I'm thinking of replacing is the BCM... Could a BCM cause starter solenoid to just click?

The second photo shows the aftermarket fuse block that the had some nice melting going on.

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Unless something obvious jumps out at you, you're likely going to have to do logical troubleshooting with multimeter and the FSM writing diagrams - tracing all control signals (including ignition switch, relays, and starter solenoid), power (starting at battery, and thru the three cables joined at the positive jump post), and grounds (from battery and thru neg. jump lost to transmission case and starter body) required to make the starter work to find out where one or more of those items isn't getting thru.

Can you read the wiring diagrams and understand the control signal path, power, and ground? Can you use a multimeter and troubleshooting light?

Consider this: If the solenoid clicks but no crank, it could be a simple matter of the solenoid contacts being worn out. That is a common failure of that starter. There is a solenoid contact replacement kit on Amazon.

The fact that the solenoid is clicking suggests that the control signals are working and power is not getting thru the solenoid contacts.
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This kit includes the plunger - other similar kits don't include that and they cost more. A whole lot cheaper than a whole new starter, and I trust a working used factory starter over a rebuilt aftermarket one:

The starter was replaced with a valucraft from AutoZone back in August 2022. (that's also what was inside of it also before replacing) there is also no metal shim installed that's supposed to be there in-between starter and transmission...Not sure if that could do anything I've been told no. Replacing the starter back in August originally didn't solve the problem either... we eventually just got it running somehow and it's been intermittent ever since. What are the chances it was another bad AutoZone part out of the box though? Also, I am definitely struggling my way through the schematics and have a multimeter... There are a couple of concepts I'm trying to grasp though on how to read the schematics... They're... Tricky...
Alright, after doing the troubleshooting steps on the FSM it seems i have indeed been swindled by AutoZone again with a faulty aftermarket part out of the box. I'm absolutely so mad, that I l think putting in a used Chrysler starter is the best option at this point. Does anyone know the part number for the Chrysler starter for my 2002 dodge intrepid SXT with the 3.5L?
I agree that a well used factory starter is to be trusted more than an aftermarket rebuilt. Almost the only things that fail (gradually wear out) on them are the solenoid contacts. It's why I always suggest the <$20 Victory Lap contact kit vs. replacing the whole factory starter with an aftermarket (other than perhaps new aftermarket).

Does anyone know the part number for the Chrysler starter for my 2002 dodge intrepid SXT with the 3.5L?
04609346AB, AKA 4609346AB
Thank you Peva,
Will be taking it back on warranty until I can figure out a good OEM solution. Just need the car running for now. I've gotten good at getting the starter in and out.
One question, could not having the spacer cause starter malfunction? I've never heard of this occuring before.
I assume you mean what they call the cover (see below). I'm not sure what would happen without that, but I wouldn't think that not having it would cause the starter not to engage.

The nose tip of the starter has to fit in a recess in the transmission case - I know some people didn't have that right, and the starter doesn't fit right (tilted) when that happens. The grounding cable has to be attached, and the bolts tight - 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.). I doubt you have any of those problems.
Motor vehicle Font Parallel Elbow Auto part
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Thanks Peva, took the valucrap starter (valuecraft) back to AutoZone, upgraded for $38 to the duralast. Installed it, had to recrimp a new connector onto solenoid trigger wire too. Car cranks great. Turns out the starter main power B+ wire was loose causing it to arc and fried the solenoid completely after 6 months of intermittent use. I've heard multiple stories of loose starter cables - whether it was install error on my end or not, I don't care (I didn't have proper tools at the time of starter replacement in 2022)- it's fixed now and the car is returned back to near stock wiring conditions all the way around. Will put car back together tomorrow and really see how nice it starts. Thanks for the help Peva. It truly is appreciated and the factory service manuals I've been trying to get definitely helped me out.
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You're welcome.

Yep - I should have mentioned loose B+ stud nut as a possibility. High resistance + high current => heat (P = I^2 x R = E^2/R; units: P = watts, I = amps, E = volts, R = ohms).

Glad all is well now.
Well, it's funny you mention that because I had also read posts from you in the past on other threads from years ago that stated the same formula. :)
Car is put back together and running great.
Well, it's funny you mention that because I had also read posts from you in the past on other threads from years ago that stated the same formula. :)
Car is put back together and running great.
👍

(I just edited my post to more clearly state the units, and I had left out units for R.)
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