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The shifter cable goes forward out of the console tunnel and veers over the gas pedal and thru the firewall. On the engine compartment side, it comes out between the brake booster and center of he firewall, and turns downward to the driver's side of the transmission.
 

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Photos of seats: On the one set, the passenger seat is in use right now so, not pictured.

2001 Leather with 130k miles








1998 Cloth with 70k miles






2004 Cloth with 39k miles





 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good morning to all. Sorry its been a few days, I have been busy traveling to and from Fl. Thanks tgs for the photos, I really like the 2004 seats, they look new. I would personally drive to your house to get them. But the problem is my car has the complete front seat. I don't have the lower console between the seats. I am a bit concern because I haven't received the carpet from the dealership. I paid 700 dollars for it and was told I would have it in 3 to 4 days. that was supposed to be last Friday and today is Tuesday and so far no call from them. Maybe it was to good to be true.

On another issue any of you have any instructions on how to remove and reinstalled the carpet? What kind of plastic screws do you need? Any advice on how to remove the plastic covers in order to not to damage them?

I asked the question to the parts person at the dealership and all he could say it was all discontinued. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Leo
 

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Thanks tgs for the photos, I really like the 2004 seats, they look new. I would personally drive to your house to get them. But the problem is my car has the complete front seat. I don't have the lower console between the seats
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have a front bench seat with column shift, right! Sorry!


On removing and installing the carpet:
Disconnect the battery at the negative Jump Post

The back seat bottom comes out with a quick jerk under the left front; same thing on the right front.
(There is a metal loop on each side that fits snugly into a rubber grommet)

Remove all four door seals.

Remove the nuts hold the gas pedal plate.
Remove the bolts that anchor the seat belts (bottom of the B pillar)
Remove the right and left dash end caps.

Separate the B pillar moding from the B pillar (you can remove it but you don't have to)

I think there are four or five white plastic pins on each side under the rocker molding.
I use an HF (harbor freight) tool to get those out, "5 piece upholstery and trim tool set #99739; price $15.99.

The two front kick moldings are held in place with two Phillips head screws each
(can take some effort and will power to get those screws out)

Remove the radio bezel by pulling straigth back (should just unsnap)

Pull the carpet back from under the dash and out.

(Time for a beer)
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.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Good morning to all. Its finally here. Has not been out of the bag since 2005. I will start removing the old one this weekend with my son. Thanks for the instructions. It should be very similar for mine since I don't have the center console.
Have any body use some sort of sound insulation on your cars when installing the new carpet?

Here are some photos of the carpet still in the plastic. I will send some without it this weekend.

Take care

Leo
 

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I've never used it myself but something that seems to be popular is a product called "dynamat" -- "www.dynamat.com".
 

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I never did it, but I looked into it some years ago. Hardware and the big box stores sell what is called roofing underlayment in rolls for going under roofing shingles to prevent ingress of water in ice damn and similar situations (seals around nails, etc.).

You may find that it accomplishes the same thing as Dynamat for a bit less cost. May or may not be as thick as Dynamat. If thinner, it still may be cheaper to go with double thickness. There are "name brand" roofing underlayment products, and then there are lesser-known regional/generic brands that may be even cheaper.

You might want to look at SDS sheets and ingredients labels. I think asphalt is to be avoided due to outgassing inside a hot car. I think polypropylene (AKA butyl) is the "modern"/desired/acceptable material - but it's your responsibility to research it on your own. Maybe you can find an SDS sheet on Dynamat to figure out its ingredients.

The materials are very much like (identical to?) the black sticky stuff used to attach the door panel liners to the doors of our cars, but in sheet form.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks TGS and PEVA for the info. I did some research on the internet and in YouTube. They all mention the fumes in a hot car, they talk about thickness and heat and sound insulation. I was not able to work in the car this weekend, my A/C unit and tractor stopped working so I will keep you guys posted.

Take care
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hello to all.
Just wanted to post an update to the 2003 TLC. I was able to move the seats and the carpet today. It was not easy. All the seats bolts came out after a bath with WD-40. All except the left from one in the drivers side. It was so corroded that it was just turning. I had to use my dremmel to cut it. It was so bad that the metal that holds the seat and the bolt together was just a big pile of rust. I have to go to the dealer and try and find a replacement. Also I found where the water leak is coming from. It is from directly behind the brake pedal. The part that goes into the firewall and directly behind the brake assembly. It is all full of rust. Im sending some pictures of the project. Any help with the water leak will be appreciated.

Also I found another connection under the passenger seat just like the one in the driver seat that connect to the electric motor. Is it possible to install another electric seat in there. Do you guys know if they had an electric passenger seat for my car?. I have the one without the center console.
If not can I replace it with a 300M seat and install a generic center console?

TGS, I just saw your post of your red 2004 SXT. Beautiful car and the low miles on it with the immaculate interior for that price was a great find. Im jealous!!!!!! Congrats on the find
 

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Concordes have the front bench seat set up, too.
Probably more Concordes sold that way than Intrepids.
I think you'd have better luck finding a power passenger seat in a Concorde than in an Intrepid.

About the 2004 Red SXT; it is for sale. I purchased that car in 2014 and I am selling it for $4000.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
TGS I wish I would have seen your car instead of painting mine. I always wanted the model with the big engine but in those days I couldn't afforded. I would be on the road right now driving to your place with 4K in hand!!!!!.

any body have any advice regarding the leak behind the master cylinder booster?
 

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I doubt the area around the brake booster is the source of your water leak. Your first picture shows basically normal rust in that area right around where the booster rod comes into the cabin.
 

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The water seems to be confined to the drivers floor area; just the area where you would put your feet.
What about the material (thick vinyl matting) against the firewall? If you lift it up, is the underside wet?

Another place to check now that you have the carpet out:
The sheet metal screw that holds the plastic foot rest in place.
I had one car that was allowing water to come in past that screw.

Another thing and I just noticed this Sunday while I was washing my latest project (300m Special):
I removed the door seals from all four doors. Then I removed the headliner and the carpet.
The lady that owned the car was a heavy smoker and there were cigarette burns in the headliner!

Anyway, with the door seals out, water was running under the windshield molding onto the dash and onto the floor and then sucked up by that material on the firewall. That material acted like a sponge!

I mopped it up and put the front door seals back in and ran lots of water in, on and all around the windshield and front doors...no more leaking.
(I also propped up the firewall material, leaving it to dry out -- I might replace it anyway when I replace the dash. Dash has a giant crack in it)
Apparently, with the door seals in place, any water running under the windshield molding will follow the seal down and out rather than down and in.

You say, "Also I am worried about that water leak. Don't know where it is coming from. Put water with a hose for 10 minutes and nothing came in. It only happens when it rains a lot and hard." With the carpet out, put down some newspaper or something like that (absorbent and easy to tell when it gets wet) and run the hose over the windshield and door again, concentrating on the driver side.
if you don't get anything coming in, run the car up on some ramps (so it's tilted), open the hood and run the hose around the engine side of the firewall.
If you still don't get anything, spray the heck out of the bottom of the car.

Best of luck!!
 

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I hope you're not putting the new carpet without finding the source of the leak?

Should be easier to find if you leave it out.

Unless you have an issue around the Windshield the majority of water leaks in the LH have to do with the doors and door seals or something similar. Now that the carpet is out hit everything with a high pressure hose and i bet you find it.
 

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Stuff like this also works wonders if you suspect a specific area.

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1352&bih=604&tbm=shop&q=crack+detector+developer&oq=crack+detector+developer&gs_l=psy-ab.3...25023.26904.0.27061.12.12.0.0.0.0.104.905.8j3.11.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.0.0.DXT8BcnpRg0#spd=4915713080097028586

Sprays on, dries up and looks like flour, liquid gets on it and you can easily spot a leak. Works better for finding leaks than it does for trying to find cracks in metal (as it was originally designed for using a penetrating dye first).
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Good afternoon to all.
Sorry for not responding to all. Been very busy here at home. Doing some home repairs and super busy at work. I am a helicopter instructor pilot here in the home of Army aviation. Teaching students and taking test myself for my annual evaluations.

I will try to work on the car this weekend and I will let you know the outcome. There is no way Im installing that brand new carpet after paying 700 dollars for it.
Thanks TGS, Rombo and bh1992 for all the advice.

V/r

Leo
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hey guys, just finish working on the Trep. The heat is insane. I think I was putting more sweat inside the car than the water leak coming in. Finally found it. I mean the one in the interior. Also the area where it is coming from the outside. Its got to be where the rubber connection for the electrical wiring of the door comes in or the rubber cover for the metal part that allows the door to open a certain amount. My wife was putting water in the windshield and nothing was coming in. Then she put water in the are in the door where the rubber parts are and water immediately started coming in. How do I remove the rubber hose. or the 2 bolts. Also Im cleaning the door seal and putting a bead of silicon around the door before I put it back in the car just in case like TGS said he found on the 300M.

The first 2 pictures are the location where the water is coming in. One is right by where the door seal goes and there is a dirt stain in the photo. The other one is the biggest one, there was a piece of tape covering the hole. It is covered with some kind of foam , maybe for sound attenuation.Maybe the water is coming from there the rubber cover is and is traveling found the side and coming out of the holes.
The last picture is from some plastic pins holding the plastic cover to the fender. How do I remove this to see if there is also a hole where the water is coming in.

Thanks in advance

Leo
 

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Any time it rains really hard you get a pool under your feet.
Leo,
I read that to mean, a hard rain while the car is parked and when you go out to get in the car, after the rain, the carpet is soaked and there may even be a puddle.

I would re-install the driver door seal (without silicone for now).
Close the door and hose it down. This way you are sort of simulating a hard rain with everything in place that should keep the rain out.

Maybe put a ladder up next to the car and clamp the hose to the ladder and let it run and run and run....

((also, i replied to your message))

--Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hello TGS,
I think the water gets in from where the electrical cable form the car gets in the door. It is a big rubber part. OR maybe the 2 crews that hold the metal part that limits door travel . I don't think its the seal. Also how do I remove those plastic clips that hold the plastic to the fender. I want to remove them but Im afraid to break them. IT is really hard for me to find parts for this car here in my town. The dodge dealer is not to friendly or I guess hey are not really interested in seeing me stuff!!!!!. I want to remove it to see if the hole that has the cable to open the hood is letting water coming in.

To answer one of your questions the firewall shield was wet. even after weeks of having the carpet and windows open it still wet. Just like you said is a sponge. I want it to replace it but I see is a complete part and can't be removed unless the dash comes out. I don't want to even think about that. Maybe I will use a heat gun to dry it out. I found some ants that I have to get rid off living under there. Very small ones.

I can tell you work a lot on these cars. How do you get the replacements parts for them, I barely find any in my area. I want to get the struts replaced but reading the lots of issues on the quick strut reviews Im afraid. I rather spend the money on MOPAR ones if I can find them.

Thanks in advance

Leo
 

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Those plastic pins are single use. They are not meant to be reused. They can be cut off with a pair of wire cutters or you can use something like a nail set and hammer to punch the center pin out. There is a pretty big rubber seal where the cable and the wire harness come out. I really don't think it would leak past that (I could be wrong). No, I don't think the door seal is the issue, either, but with the door seal removed (as you have it now) water can get in that shouldn't be getting in so, it's not a valid test. I would really encourage you to put the door seal back in, close the door and hose her down again.

When the firewall shield got wet I propped it up with a 2x4 on each side to let it air out. It didn't take long to dry out.
Yeah, taking out the dash is a pretty time consuming job!

There is a pretty good supply here in Indy at the two Pick-n-pull yards but I am beginning to see fewer and fewer cars at the one yard. Be sure to keep in mind, a lot of parts from the 300M, Concorde and Treps are interchangeable.
 
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