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Discussion Starter #41
Good morning TGS.
When the water was coming in the door seal was installed. My wife was putting water in the car all over. I told her to put water in the area of the front windshield to rule out front leaks. Then I told her to hose the side of the door where the electrical connections go to the water and water started rushing in. I removed the door seal after the fact. I need to remove the plastic fender to see if there is another way for water to come in, I read here somewhere that somebody mention the exit hole for the hood release. Just to follow your advice I installed the seal and put water on drivers side and water started to come in.

Also If I wanted to replace the interior door panels, Can I use concorde door panels?, They look better than the intrepid ones. Are they compatible? I have been looking for the concorde seats like you mentioned on eBay. They look nicer and the passenger ones are also electric. I found a set of 2003 300M door panels on Ebay and they say are not compatible with the intrepid. I have been searching for junkyards in my area and don't have many.
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Leo
 

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I believe front door panels are interchangeable among all the LH badges (talking 2nd gen.), but rear door panels are different shape on the Intrepid - you'd have to chop off lower rear part of 300M or Concorde rear panel to fit Intrepid rear door - I think it's been done, but a bit of trouble - there's a thread on this forum somewhere (photos may not still be there).

The door pull cups are unique to each badge, so be sure to get the ones with the new panels. They all look *very* similar, but their shapes are enough different that you can't make them fit. Also, on a given car the pull cups on all 4 doors are not interchangeable among themselves on that same car.
 

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TGS - I think Chrysler states that the mushroom door panel clips are re-useable up to 3 times (I could be mis-remembering - I think it states it in the FSM). I think people re-use them over and over and over, though they may get loose and rattle after the 5th or so R&R.

There's a tool called a "panel popper" sold in the auto parts store - looks just like a weed fork (dandelion puller), but the working end is shaped to scoop under the head of the clip.

Panel Popper:

 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks PEVA for the info, so to clarify the 300M can be use in my intrepid, that means the screws on the side of the door align and the electrical harness will also?

2003 03 CHRYSLER 300M; Front INTERIOR Door Trim Panel, Right Pass, Black | eBay
this the link for the door panel I found. It is much nicer than my doors in the intrepid. Mine are really old and decrepit.

Also sorry about the question, but what is the door pull cup. The picture of the tool you sent I found one on advance auto parts. I used it to remove toehold carpet.

Thanks for the info in advance.
Leo
 

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If using front door panels other than an Intrepid in your car there will be a mismatch between the outer edges of the dash and the door panels in height. It's actually worse on one side than the other. Forget which side. The solution to that is change the dash also which is quite a chore.

The door pull cup is the section behind the interior handle you use to open the door.
 

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What's your interior color? You can find the trim code on the driver's door sticker. Should be 4 characters.
 

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TGS - I think Chrysler states that the mushroom door panel clips are re-useable up to 3 times (I could be mis-remembering
He has a picture of the lower painted plastic piece. The piece that goes behind the tire and in front of the door. The plastic inner fender is fastened to it with two of the small single use plastic rivets. Those are the two that I thought he was talking about...
 

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He has a picture of the lower painted plastic piece. The piece that goes behind the tire and in front of the door. The plastic inner fender is fastened to it with two of the small single use plastic rivets. Those are the two that I thought he was talking about...
And I think you are correct. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Good morning to all.

Thanks for the posts. Im posting a picture of the info from the door and some pictures of the car interior. It is really faded. The door handle stopped working and the only color I found was a black one. No match. I replaced it myself. The top right section is cracked. Also there is a crack in the passenger side of the dash where the airbag is. That is why I was looking at the 300 interior. Thought it could be possible just to replace the interior with something more luxurious. But replacing the dash is no joke. Specially by myself!!!!!! and not having knowledgeable people around. I putting a picture of the suspect area of the water leak. Thats where my wife put the water hose and water just started rushing in.
 

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Update:
I was working on two cars over the weekend.
I removed the door seals of both cars before removing the headliners.
I replaced the door seals in one car but not the other.
We had light rain last night. Not a down pour; just steady light rain.

The car without door seals had two small puddles of water on top of the carpet of the front driver side; one very small puddle on the front passenger side. Rear carpet was completely dry.

The car with door seals was completley dry.

This tells me that the front door seals are very important in keeping the interior dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks tgs
tomorrow i will install the seal on the car and put more water on it and see. Will let you know how it works out.
This weekend I visited 2 junkyards looking for those concorde electric seats with no luck. may have to get ones shown on eBay. Don't really like to do that. I like to see stuff before I buy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Good morning guys.
I found the source of the water leak. TGS, in order to make sure the door seal is not the problem I put the seal and hose the entire door without getting the area near the door electrical connection wet. No water in. Then I took a small spray bottle and slowly put water in the area of the rubber seal for the electrical cable for the door. Water started to come in. I took a picture of the inside. It looks like a white square plastic connector. Inside the square box are a several electrical cables. Looks like there are 2 separate electrical connectors inside the big rectangular one. Any of you knows how to remove this from the body of the car? Are there any electrical connectors behind that can be easily disconnected? If I force it out with a flat tip screwdriver , Im I going to brake it getting into more serious trouble?
The intent is to remove it from the frame, put silicone around it, reinstall the black rubber seal over it and put more silicone on it then push it back in into the frame of the car, hopefully making a good seal all around it. There is a picture of what Im talking about. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Leo
 

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Leo,
In order for you to have clear work area you are going to have to remove the door.
At least, that's the way I see it.
There are four ears on that connector, two on the inside (toward the fender)
and two on the outside (toward the driver).

I just removed all four front doors from two cars.
I swapped the doors.

Here's what I did (working by myself).

I opened the door all the way and supported the door from underneath.
I removed the two screws that hold the door check or check strap (from when it used to be fabric)
(Takes a T-30 torx bit)
With the screws out, I slowly closed the door to the first click; that's enough to get that metal bar out of the way.
The rubber cup piece is held in place with a plastic pin.
Remove the rubber cup piece.

I peeled back the rubber on the connector like you've already done.

Loosen the two bolts and two nuts that secure the door to the hinges.
(13mm socket and 13mm box end ratcheting wrench)
As you loosen the bolts and then the nuts, the door could get squirrely so, you have to be careful.

With the door completely loose begin to slide it back and then give yourself enough room to get a skinny flat head screwdriver
with a long shaft in between the fender and the door (from the outside of the door) to press/release those two tabs/ears.
(I had the best luck when I released the two top ears first then worked on the bottom two)

Once you get the connector loose from the body of the car you can pull it out a little bit then slide the door back more
then pull out a little more wiring, then slide it back more, etc.

There are two connectors and there is a little extra wire that will come out from inside the car.

So now you can clean everything up, put the rubber sleeve back on the connector, install your silicone and reverse the process.

Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Thanks a lot TGS, I was hoping that there was a way to get to the connector with out removing the door. Oh well. At least I feel much better about removing the connector from the frame. I tried the internet for hours looking for a picture of that part to see what was connected behind the cables. Researched MOPAR website with no luck.

I will be able to fill the hole with plenty of silicone!!!!!!. No more water leak. By the way PM on the way.

Have a good night

Leo
 

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Couple of photos:

First is the door laying in the back of the truck.
There is some soap still on it. Just wanted to clean it up a little before reinstalling.
You can see the connector, the two outer studs and the two bolt holes.
Also, I have already placed the rubber boot back around the connector.
If you look closely at your rubber boot you will see that it is meant to fit in a very specific way;
this ensures a tight fit around the connector.
You can also see the two "ears" (on this side. there are two more on the other side)
that will click into place when you re-seat it and make it so frustrating to get out.







This photo shows the hole in the jamb and the two cables that attach to the connector exit the pillar.
I think the passenger side has much more slack in the cable than the driver side.





And then a few more photos ...























The dash was badly cracked. The HVAC box smelled nasty, moldy, putrid.
The carpet and the headliner had multiple cigarette burns.
Found two (not one but two) lighters resting on top of the steering column when I dropped it.
The lady smoked like there was no tomorrow(might not be anymore for her)
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Thanks for the photos TGS,
Looks like one of your project cars. I like the interior doors. Looking for something like that for my blue intrepid but Rombo mentioned that the doors don't match with dash.
I commend you for the attention to detail. Looks like you go all the way when redoing the cars.
How in the world do you get all the parts for these cars. It is so hard to find parts for the intrepid down here in Southern Alabama. When you go to the dealership is like pulling teeth!!!!! and not too many junkyards around here that have the car parts. Where did you get the replacement dash and carpet. My intrepid has a nasty longitudinal crack in the area of the airbag.

Take care


Leo
 

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TGS has 300m Special door panels going in and I assume a 300m Dash also.

The 300M/Concorde/LHS front door panels are a direct swap into an Intrepid. They fit and work just fine other than the mismatch between the surfaces of the door panels and the Intrepid dash. It's not bad and more noticeable on one side. I can't remember exactly but I believe it's the passenger side that is more obvious. Could be wrong on that.

The rears are a different ball game. The Intrepid rear door frame and doors are a different shape at the back than a 300m/LHS Concorde.. You can't just swap rear door panels. You have to cut a section of the 300m door panel off and splice a section of an Intrepid door panel on. It's not an easy job. You have to peel the vinyl covering back, cut the section out and mate a matching section then reapply the vinyl. A big PITA. This only applies to the rear doors.

If you're just looking to replace the fronts due to wear or damage by all means try it if you can find some reasonably priced door panels. They don't need to modified in any way.

Standard 300m panels came with either plastic fake wood or real wood trim inserts. The 300m Special had the fake Carbon Fiber trim inserts. That's the only difference. LHS/Concorde don't have those trim pieces if I remember right. Those fronts will also fit the Intrepid without modifications.

The other thing is finding the matching colored panels.
 

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Looks like you have a Taupe colored interior. You don't really show any pictures of the seats or door panels so I'm guessing.
 

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I have a Taupe/Light Taupe colored 300m Dash and matching door panels that I would sell. Dash and door panels have the Real Wood Trim inserts. The rear door panels have been modified to fit an Intrepid already.

The dash is a chore to swap out but it's a direct bolt in with no mods. Something for you to consider.

Picture of dash below. The lower trim pieces on the left are included (not shown).

 

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That would make a really nice interior with your blue exterior.

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Leo, in response to your question about parts...

I bought this Special around two years ago off of craigslist in Virginia.
Since then I bought three more parts cars.
2 more Specials and one Intrepid ES(70k).
One of the Specials was really well taken care of (blew the timing belt at 127k); the other was not so well taken care of.

The one from Virginia has 67k and will go up for sale.
The one with 127k will become my daily driver.
The other is really rusty and will be disassembled and scrapped.

Then Intrepid ES was wrecked really hard in the front end but had been well taken care of and probably belonged to an older couple.
I sold the engine and tranny and then kept lots of stuff for myself.
The leather seats and remote keyless entry are in the Red SXT.
The wheels and tires went on the White SXT.
The carpet and HVAC will go in this Special.

The Red SXT needed a dash, after almost three years I finally found one at the local pick-n-pull.
The white SXT needed the correct bumper w/fog lights. I finally found one in Fort Wayne.

Break time's over. Back out to the heat and humidity and finish putting that headliner back in.
 
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