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Hello all,

I was wondering if one or more of you fine knowledgeable folks may be able to help me out with an issue im having.

the day before yesterday, my car overheated to the point that it shut itself off to protect itself. turns out i have a very very slow coolant leak and was low. after filling the reservoir and letting it cool, it started and ran like a top.

Yesterday, i took the car shopping. it ran fine, but had trouble starting (i noticed is took 5 or 6 cranks to get the car started, whereas it normally fires up right away).

Immediately following this long startup, i drove 45 mins on the highway and upon letting off the accelerator, the engine stalled with zero warning. i was unable to start it right away..it would crank, but not catch. After 10 minutes, i had it started and running, however it was running rough.

a few kilometers down the road, while letting off the accelerator to slow for a light, it stalled dead again. I called a tow truck, and after it arrive 30 minutes later, i was able to start and drive the car onto the bed of the truck unassisted..it actually ran well..no issues.

this morning, the shop i had it towed to checked the car over. it started and drove fine. so much so that the mechanic remarked that it was in really good shape. they ran the diagnostic scanner on it and found zero trouble codes. so i paid my towing bill and drove off.

i went to fill the tank (was at 1/3 full) and added some injector cleaner (without methyl hydrate in it). when the vehicle reached operating temperature, and upon getting to a traffic light, i left off the accelerator and the engine immediately died again!

Back on the towtruck it went for round two at the garage. i was not able to drive it onto the flatbed again. the truck came by alot faster this tie, i suspect it hadnt sufficiently cooled yet as its a squillion degrees outside at least.

so now im stuck wondering what has happened to my sweet ride. im vehicle-less and looking for direction on what i can do to get this under sontrol.

Thanks in advance for any advice provided :)
 

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First on my list would be crank sensor - not unusual for them to get intermittent and not throw a code. If you do get cam or crank sensors, get OEM only - people *often* have trouble with the aftermarket sensors on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First on my list would be crank sensor - not unusual for them to get intermittent and not throw a code. If you do get cam or crank sensors, get OEM only - people *often* have trouble with the aftermarket sensors on these cars.
Thank you kindly for the reply. How does the warming of the engine affect the sensor? just a curiosity. i always buy OEM for components, its just the way to go...especially ignition parts
 

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Thank you kindly for the reply. How does the warming of the engine affect the sensor? just a curiosity. i always buy OEM for components, its just the way to go...especially ignition parts
Warming = Expansion...

Cooling = Contraction.

Expanding and contracting plastic or vinyl or even PVC will cause cracks.

The rest is up to you!
 

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...i always buy OEM for components, its just the way to go...
In general, mostly true, but there are exceptions. Two examples that come to mind are PCV valves and tie rod adjusting sleeves, of which IMO there are better parts in aftermarket.
 

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Canadian..were u loosing alot of coolant?......ie would it be low after a month driving? Find out why he thinks its "puked". At my mechanic place, a 2.7L Trep car had coolant in the oil, the WP was changed for $700 (in Stoney Creek) and it ran fine after. But this may have been caught early. How long have you had the stalling/coolant leak?
 

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Peva..good description of the PCV valve flaw. Thanks..... I'll check mine. I wish i kept the OEM one that i changed. I would have liked to see how it looked.
 
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