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Discussion Starter #1
New to the forum. I was given my 04 a couple years back to get me through a few months of not having a car and I've fallen in love with it since then. Still have less than 95K miles on it. Going to be replacing the driver side tie rod this week probably any tips or pointers would be appreciated!
 

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Welcome to the forums.

Inner, outer, or both? Outer tie rod ball joint stud is easy to remove. Sometimes can break it loose from the strut bracket by giving a couple of good whacks with a 3 pound hammer on the side of the bracket and on the end of the stud after removing the nut of course. Also there is plenty of room for a small pulley/gear/wheel puller to just press it out if that would be your preference.

You should check both inner tie rod bushings for wear - they definitely wear out on these cars. In fact, are you sure that's not all it needs on the tie rods? 95k miles is kind of early for outer tie rod wear, and the bushings are inexpensive.

Only have the inner tie rod bolt on one side out at a time because there is a part inside the rack that both bolts go thru, and it can slide out of position if both bolts are out at the same time, which will cause re-assembly problems.

Your toe alignment will be off after the work, so get it as close as you can and get it to an alignment shop right away after finishing.

It would not be unusual for the toe adjuster sleeves to be binding up and possibly breaking apart, making it difficult to do alignments. Consider replacing both with aftermarket ones that have a large hex for turning instead of the knurled area like the factory ones. That is one part that aftermarket has a better part for - but aftermarket has both types, so be sure to get the type with the hex grip.

Timing belt is way overdue if it hasn't been done. Most people only know about the 105kmile change interval, but it's 105kmiles or 7 years, whichever comes first. These are what are called interference engines, so if the belt breaks, there will be expensive engine damage. Change the water pump and timing belt tensioner pulley at the same time.
 

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Peva, you're really getting into a habit of saying "belt" on a 2.7 engine. Don't they say that the chain can go for about 200,000 miles before getting replaced, although the waterpump is still approximately 100k mile replacement intervals? Also, there is an improved waterpump available with heavier duty bearings and an accumulator to collect the small amount of normal seepage that would otherwise dry up in and clog the weep holes/passages.

As far as the outer tie rod wear, you are right in the fact that it is not a common repair. Many if not most LHs go 200k miles and never need replacement, but others (in the case of my 02) go far less. 78,000 miles and had one worn out.
 

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Peva, you're really getting into a habit of saying "belt" on a 2.7 engine. Don't they say that the chain can go for about 200,000 miles before getting replaced, although the waterpump is still approximately 100k mile replacement intervals? Also, there is an improved waterpump available with heavier duty bearings and an accumulator to collect the small amount of normal seepage that would otherwise dry up in and clog the weep holes/passages...
Oops! Embarrassing. I just assumed/didn't read/it was 1 a.m.?

Correct on the chain.

Hard to say on the original factory water pump life (many failed early - didn't change mine until 207kmiles - perhaps I was just lucky). Could depend on if coolant has been changed like it's supposed to be. The coolant is 100kmile/5years. Which brings up the importance of using only G-05/HOAT (Zerex G-05, or Chrysler/Mopar 100kmile/5Year - from dealer, or Ford/Motorcraft VC-7-B Gold - red container - from dealer).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is an excessive amount of play in the wheel when lifted. I'll be replacing the tie rod all the way down to the tie rod end. Fortunately I live about a mile from the shop so I won't have far to go to get the alignment done. Thanks for the tips!
 
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