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Ron should drive the ricer to dan's meet, leave a signed title in the glove box, and fly home.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Danbo's Consignment Auto Sales!
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Its been a day of Dodge Ram learning.....

Ended up picking up the 92 diesel, the "5/8" truck. Small floor tunnel, of course...but many good use able parts; so it was worth the trip. Towed it back with the 14...didnt even feel it back there...only thing different was the fuel mileage...lol..down from 21 to about 16.

Got it back, was all excited about using a nice clean frame; but then, something didnt look right. Yep...sure enough. This D250 has the 6 inch frame...not the 8 inch...like mine has. Dammit. Diesel; LE, all the same options, EXCEPT manual transmission. How could it be different? The last one I understand...sort of---it was a D250...but had the 5 inch frame...thats because it was a gas burner.

Well, as it turns out; my 93 is a 1 ton; sold as a 3/4 ton....basically...a big dually, with single wheels, simply put. This was specific to 1991-1993, and ONLY available this way with a manual trans...or 4x4.

Mine also has the heavy duty front axle. The other DIESEL D250, with the automatic; does not. Same rears, and springs, so thats good.

Mine is apparently a rare 8500 GVW truck. Frame and suspension is specific to my set of options. So, using any other truck other than a 93, 8500 GVW, manual Getrag trans, D250, or D350, is going to require a bunch of work. Good luck finding one. That is the most desirable setup; that everyone wants, 4x4 adds an extra premium.

****.
 

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That's some major suckage!
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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After consulting the Danbo Inc, board of directors, and forming a new company; Danbo's Truck Salvage; I've got a plan.

Back to the 89 gas burner. Use the pristine rust free cab, and change transmission tunnel....I have a perfectly good one in the 93 cab. A bit of work, cutting and welding, but not the end of the world.

Use the 92 "5/8" truck to replace rusty frame brackets; such as cab mounts and cross members, and anything else that is good, like the outer and inner fenders, RH door, etc. Use the rear end and suspension out of the 92; nice and clean, still has factory paint, why not. Use the original 1 ton 93 frame rails, after a good cleaning.

Use the 89 bed, as originally planned. Shave those titties. Either way, I am going to be into a bunch of body work...so why not work with what I have. Used stuff so far has just as many dings, dents, and scratches as it would take to shave those titties.

Sell everything left over down to the last useful ****ing screw. Then junk the rest!

Good thing about the one I bought today, easily enough useable parts on it to cover what I spent to buy it; despite the frame being different.

Really wondering how many different frames they used, sheesh, so far, 4.....
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Danbo's Consignment Auto Sales!
Should you decide to part it out rather than selling as a whole, I might have to make a trip down there. Google says it's about an 8 hour drive.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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All is not lost....everything I was missing on the 89 due it being 1/2 ton is there on the 92, so it will all work in the end, plus a few bonuses. :wacko:

The guy I bought the 92 from had 5 of the damn things....all of the others running, two with less than 50K miles on them....:drool:

After this, I almost threw it all out the window and said **** it. I've had 2 people offer me $2500 for just the engine.

Project Old Red will press on.
 

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Dan the Ram Project Man!
 

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This Hackintosh Intel i3 triple boot works so well, I'm tempted to keep it for myself. OS X, Windows 7 Pro and Windows 10 Pro all in one box. Figure I'll list it for around $300+shipping. Way cheaper than any Apple that will handle those OS.
Even put it in a spiffy white cube case.

 

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Quick question, Doing timing belt which happens to be my first one ever, Starts run fine as it did before. However I've noticed the Crank appears to be one tooth ahead of the cams (which are equal) Is this allowable or do I need to spend another 30 minutes getting it perfect if is such a thing.


Also, 1G 3.5. old belt didnt snap, waterpump went bad.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Quick question, Doing timing belt which happens to be my first one ever, Starts run fine as it did before. However I've noticed the Crank appears to be one tooth ahead of the cams (which are equal) Is this allowable or do I need to spend another 30 minutes getting it perfect if is such a thing.


Also, 1G 3.5. old belt didnt snap, waterpump went bad.
Line up the crank arrow perfect, then look at the cams. Both must be between the dots. One may be exactly between, one pointing towards one or the other dot.

As long as crank arrow is lined up, and you are not outside the dots on the cams, (even if you are almost pointing at one of the dots) you are fine. Outside the dots, you are a tooth off.

Go off this and not the crank arrow.
 

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Quick question, Doing timing belt which happens to be my first one ever, Starts run fine as it did before. However I've noticed the Crank appears to be one tooth ahead of the cams (which are equal) Is this allowable or do I need to spend another 30 minutes getting it perfect if is such a thing...
PCM is likely to see the cam and crank sensors not sync'd up and give you problems.

EDIT: Go by what Dan said.
 

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That tray/cable retainer was discontinued after 2001 and they shortened the negative cable.
Instead of running the negative cable all the way to the starter bolt, they cut it short and
bolted it to the first bolt through the bell housing. Right where the tray used to be bolted down.
I'm about burnt out on that thread. It's like Groundhog Day. Repeat the same thing every day (with refinements as more details are learned).
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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I'm about burnt out on that thread. It's like Groundhog Day. Repeat the same thing every day (with refinements as more details are learned).
Yep, I am dealing with it here, ebay, and my email. :runfire:
 

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I did suggest going to the yard and checking out junkyard cars with the wiring intact. Take pictures and you should be able to figure things out. No confusion over the Internet about which cable which person was talking about, etc.
 

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Should you decide to part it out rather than selling as a whole, I might have to make a trip down there. Google says it's about an 8 hour drive.
You'd have to drive here and remove the engine, etc. I'd help as best as I could work permitting.

What is it that you're looking at? Engine? Interior, etc?
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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I did suggest going to the yard and checking out junkyard cars with the wiring intact. Take pictures and you should be able to figure things out. No confusion over the Internet about which cable which person was talking about, etc.
Thats what I did when I did my first swap.

He has my book, but I cant put that many pics in it. It would be 300 pages. LOL.
 
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