I'm getting ready to go to Las Vegas for the weekend and I figure I want to do the basic oil/air filter change myself. What else is required maintenance on 24,000 miles? Also getting the codes by turning the key on 3x doesn't work..I must be doing something wrong. Thanks in advance.
24,000 Mile maintenance
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joined
·
606 Posts
I think it only works if the check engine light comes on or something cause it never worked for me either. From my experience and knowledge those service packages are usually ripoffs.
It's really easy to change the Air Filter, you can have a Dodge/Chrysler dealer change your Oil and lube your accellerator pivots for like $34.95 usually. I'd change the spark plugs after 30-40K MI even though they are unfortunately prescribed at 100,000 MI. Have the tranny fluid and filter replaced at about 30-40K as well. I'd have the cooling system flushed and refilled w/Mopar 100,00 MI coolant at about 60,000 MI. Don't wait for them to melt into the engine block in regard to the plugs. It's also easy to check and adjust your tire pressure yourself. 32PSI or 35PSI for most treps. You can also reset your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Adaptive Learn Routine or what some dealers call fuel mixture by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 mintues. Most of these service packages contain a lot of B.S. and are priced very high. This is just my opinion and experience. You probably already knew some of this but just in case.
Later,
MoparPerformance
![]()
It's really easy to change the Air Filter, you can have a Dodge/Chrysler dealer change your Oil and lube your accellerator pivots for like $34.95 usually. I'd change the spark plugs after 30-40K MI even though they are unfortunately prescribed at 100,000 MI. Have the tranny fluid and filter replaced at about 30-40K as well. I'd have the cooling system flushed and refilled w/Mopar 100,00 MI coolant at about 60,000 MI. Don't wait for them to melt into the engine block in regard to the plugs. It's also easy to check and adjust your tire pressure yourself. 32PSI or 35PSI for most treps. You can also reset your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Adaptive Learn Routine or what some dealers call fuel mixture by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 mintues. Most of these service packages contain a lot of B.S. and are priced very high. This is just my opinion and experience. You probably already knew some of this but just in case.
Later,
MoparPerformance
R/T Cal - be sure to keep your receipts for the oil and filters! Be sure the receipt shows the part# for the filter, if not have the clerk write on the receipt the exact filter name and #. Dealers (so I'm told) will try to find you at fault if your engine goes sour and they didn't have a "proper" log of your oil/filter/etc changes. Sorta makes sense, they don't really know when you changed you oil last.
IMHO...Unlike the gentleman from California, I would only do only what the owner's manual has for your auto. If you want to be as "maintenance concscious" as possible, follow the owner's manual for severe service. Anything beyond this is a waste of money. The car's plugs and coolant are designed to go the prescribed 100K mile interval.
Have a safe trip! HTH.
Have a safe trip! HTH.
Joined
·
606 Posts
I disagree on that one, I know people who's plugs have actually melted before 100,000 miles when they were prescribed at 100K MI. I checked my plugs at 30K on my 3.2L ES and they were actually pretty worn. I could have held off till 50K probably. I replaced the OEM/Champion plugs then reset the PCM to adjust to the new plugs and my fuel mileage improved and my engine ran smoother. The supposed 100,000 mile Champion Copper/Platinum plugs are no pretty much no different than the 3 Year plugs that you get a Kragen.
The whole 100,000 mile thing came about actually because the plugs on some vehicles including minivans are difficult to access.
Oh yeah, and my coolant was pretty mucky at just 30,000 miles.
Everyone does they're own thing but I take really good care of my vehicles and that's what I do.
Later guys, Take Care!
MoparPerformance
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: MoparPerformance ]
The whole 100,000 mile thing came about actually because the plugs on some vehicles including minivans are difficult to access.
Oh yeah, and my coolant was pretty mucky at just 30,000 miles.
Everyone does they're own thing but I take really good care of my vehicles and that's what I do.
Later guys, Take Care!
MoparPerformance
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: MoparPerformance ]
i also disagree...waiting till 100,000 miles to change the plugs, wires, and coolant seems extremely optimistic. hell i only had 55k on my OE equipment when all of the above was changed (additionally all belts, hoses, and water pump with tensioner/timing belt, damn 1st gen 3.5, hehe) and my car started, idled, and drove better. better performance? no way. smoother engine? very much so.
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: 97 sport platinum ]
[ December 29, 2001: Message edited by: 97 sport platinum ]
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
R/T cal ,the only bad thing about leaving the plugs in for 100 000 is having then get seized in the aluminium head down the road a few years. I would take them out, check them ,and at 24K they should be good for many more miles.Then have some anti-seize compound applied to them .Now doing the trany is a good thing ,you cant hurt anything with an oil and filter change.
Hey MP, who ever told you about PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Adaptive Learn Routine ?? This only works on the trans controller, not the engine controller.Also the engine computer has know idea or could care less if new ,bigger or what ever kind of spark plugs you put in the engine. The engine computer runs off a preset program and only cares how much throttle you have open and the oxygen mixture at the O2 sensors.You can not change performance, gas mileage or anything in the engine computer by disconnecting the battery.
[ December 30, 2001: Message edited by: ottowrkr ]
Hey MP, who ever told you about PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Adaptive Learn Routine ?? This only works on the trans controller, not the engine controller.Also the engine computer has know idea or could care less if new ,bigger or what ever kind of spark plugs you put in the engine. The engine computer runs off a preset program and only cares how much throttle you have open and the oxygen mixture at the O2 sensors.You can not change performance, gas mileage or anything in the engine computer by disconnecting the battery.
[ December 30, 2001: Message edited by: ottowrkr ]
Joined
·
606 Posts
I have a friend from a Chrysler dealership. It's what they charge you $66.00 for and act like it's complicated or is what's included in one of those expensive service packages. It resets the fuel mixture to factory defaults. They call it a reset of the PCM Adaptive Learn Routine (PCMALR). It's a good idea to do that when changing plugs because the PCM may adapt to the worn plugs. It is not necessary but it's a good idea. I never did this and had adverse results from my K&N, after resetting the PCMALR it worked better, no joke. That's my experience.
Later guys,
MoparPerformance
Later guys,
MoparPerformance
Now I can't speak for the 1st generation Intrepid because I don't have one...but the design specs for the 2nd gen are that the plugs go 100K, there are no wires to replace, and coolant is also designed/spec'd to go 100K.
Having said that one should note is that you can't go wrong by doing it early. But is it necessary? That depends on a person's comfort level at whether the car is performing as expected. Certainly, the way one drives it should also factor in to the level of maintenance peformed.
One example of this is oil change interval. Reading the owner's manual, there are 8 tests for whether or not to change the oil at 3K miles/3 months. I'd be willing to bet that 95% of the drivers don't achieve any of the tests. If this is the case, we'd all be changing the oil at 7,500 mile/6 month interval.
Now, my personal feeling is to change it at the 3K mark even though I don't hit any of the tests. Is this inconsitant with my previous reponse...yeap. It's something that is to me is cheap insurance.
I guess it all boils down to economics, personal judgement, time, effort. And of course remember, there is no law or whatever to say to do things early...just don't do them late.
I just got back from Las Vegas (and had a great time!) and I would like to thank you guys for your responses. It's too bad though that I couldn't do the maintenance because of all the rain we had last week. Reading through your responses though brought up some questions. Besides the oil/air filter, coolant change, I am going to inspect the plugs. Just curious though for those who has already changed their plugs, which ones would you recommend? And this going to Drac2000, I haven't rotated on a regular basis. It seems now that I have to go to Costco's and pick up a set. At least there I can get them rotated for free.
At least there I can get them rotated for free.
Joined
·
606 Posts
Hey there, hope you had a nice time! ALWAYS USE CHAMPION COPPER/PLATINUM Plugs! I tried BOSCH Platinum 4+ Plugs in my 99ES 3.2L and it seemed to make my engine run a little rough at idle and at slower speeds. Fuel mileage did improve a little though. It seemed if low end accelleration lagged however. I never reset the PCMALR so I'm not sure if that would have helped since it helped with the K&N issues I had. The service advisor at my dealership found out and tired to pull some BS and void my warranty when I asked about the plugs. I fought it and told him that it was BS since I only had them in for a couple of weeks.
The plugs that the dealership calls Mopar/Champion 100,000 plugs are the same Champion standard Copper/Platinum plugs you can get at like Kragen/Chucks/Autozone/Pep Boys Etc. They should be pregapped at .50 but check to make sure. The only difference is the box and the price. Dealerships want almost $60.00 for a set, go to an auto parts retailer and you should be able to get them for around $13.00 for the set as I did. They are the exact same plugs. You'll also notice that there is absolutely no statement or guarantee for anything near 100,000 miles. They are usually guaranteed for about 3 years which is typically about half of 100,000 miles or less, sometimes much less.
I have done extensive research as to the best type of plugs to use and that is what I have come up with.
ottowrkr: Yeah, I don't know, the dealer does what's prescribed by Chrysler and in what's in their service database. These guys are also trained by Chrysler. When you request a Fuel Mixture reset to factory defaults or it's included in one of those over priced service packages they rest the vehicle's Adaptive Learn Routine for the PCM. They make it sound complicated but all they do is remove the negative battery connector for 15 minutes.
Hopefully some of that info helps.
Take Care!
MoparPerformance
[ January 02, 2002: Message edited by: MoparPerformance ]
The plugs that the dealership calls Mopar/Champion 100,000 plugs are the same Champion standard Copper/Platinum plugs you can get at like Kragen/Chucks/Autozone/Pep Boys Etc. They should be pregapped at .50 but check to make sure. The only difference is the box and the price. Dealerships want almost $60.00 for a set, go to an auto parts retailer and you should be able to get them for around $13.00 for the set as I did. They are the exact same plugs. You'll also notice that there is absolutely no statement or guarantee for anything near 100,000 miles. They are usually guaranteed for about 3 years which is typically about half of 100,000 miles or less, sometimes much less.
I have done extensive research as to the best type of plugs to use and that is what I have come up with.
ottowrkr: Yeah, I don't know, the dealer does what's prescribed by Chrysler and in what's in their service database. These guys are also trained by Chrysler. When you request a Fuel Mixture reset to factory defaults or it's included in one of those over priced service packages they rest the vehicle's Adaptive Learn Routine for the PCM. They make it sound complicated but all they do is remove the negative battery connector for 15 minutes.
Hopefully some of that info helps.
Take Care!
MoparPerformance
[ January 02, 2002: Message edited by: MoparPerformance ]
Thanks Moparperformance. I also haved used bosch plat. +4 on my truck and haven't detected any noticeable differences. It was cool that they were already pre-gapped, but the price of $6 bucks each I would figured some kind of better performance.
Hmmm, I figure if a set of plugs that you mention is about 13 bucks, I guess it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and change them.
Hmmm, I figure if a set of plugs that you mention is about 13 bucks, I guess it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and change them.
While it's true, it's not "guaranteed," there is a statement on page 199 and 209 in the owner's manual to among others, "Replace the spark plugs" at the 100,000 mile interval.
I point this out because there are a lot of questions asked which can be answered by reading, or re-reading the owner's manual.
But then, there is "no problem" with replacing the spark plugs before they are recommended, or replacing anything for that matter, if your car is not peforming satisfactorily or "as expected."
HTH.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
