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It worked like a champ, Josiah. Thanks for the info!!

what are the reasons for bypassing an amp?? im confused
My stock amp blew a gasket (so to speak) and I had static running out of the right bank speakers. I think the amp had a short in it or something. I had to bypass it in order to hear my music clearly.
 

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I just did the first half for the front speakers, it blew 2 fuses when i turned the car on, so i removed the radio, cut the REM wire and replaced the fuses. Now i get no sound out of them, should i reconnected the REM wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I am no longer available for help on this subject. I'm not sure how to edit my original post as I haven't been on the site in ages, but if someone could remove my e-mail address I'd appreciate it. Please don't contact me regarding the amp bypass. For the time being I won't be doing any more audio work or be answering audio questions. Thanks for understanding.
 

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Well thhe one bundle of wires going to the amp is just spea;ker wire what do u hook the power ground and accel wires to. Cuz one clip has 8 wires and the other has lots more
 

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What is it your looking to hook up the ACC & Ground to? is it for the aftermarket amp? or radio?

This is how I have mine hooked up (picked up an adapter harnes from stereo shop)

Connec your deck ACC & PWR, Dimer, etc to harnes and plug & play.
GRND <-- Ran a new line directly from Battery post to eliminate any possible ground loops)

Aftermarket Amp. Not using any power from OEM amp as my base model Trep didn't come with one.
Ran 8 gage powerline from Battery (I have 2 aftermarket amps) goes to distribution block then supplys power to one amp and one capacitor. Both amps are grounded to a Ground block then that's grounded to bolt just behind the back seat (same point as Capacitor again to eliminate ground loop)

REM wire on amps gets connected to REM wire from Deck (it's usually a blue wire from your deck.) You DO NOT want to connect your amp to the vehicles ACC or Switched leads. this will cause your amp to constantly be on and also will not protect it if there is a power surge, ei. when starting your car.

Here's a good diagram to use just eliminate what your not going to use:
 

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Parts (5) & (6) of JLWX5's original post on the bypass wiring is the key thing here, and his notes are completely correct.
Matching the colors up from your deck output wires to the output wires from the now removed Infinity amp and on to your front and rear speakers correctly (when cutting and crimping) should be your focus. I just finished installing a new deck, 2 X 6.5" JBL front speakers and 2 X JBL 6X9 rear speakers on our 1998 Concorde LXi, all in it took over 10hrs to do, maybe more like closer to 14hrs. The wife asked that I keep the sail speakers (now rendered inactive) by the bypass as "they are a part of the car"... too funny...but they do get a response from some bro's..."hey those are cool little speakers!" ... anyways all in all a great challenge and one I will never forget. Getting the rear seat out of the Concorde was a bit of a b#*ch to get at the rear speakers but there is enough out there on the net to figure it out.
Just as a reminder for those taking the challenge on, be patient and don't try to overthink things...and keep some cold beer on hand for afterwards when you can reassess how the installation is going and where you're headed next with it til it's finally done.
 

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i wired in my amp to the factory wiring to the four corner speakers. took me a couple hours at most for the 8 wires needed to hook to the amp.
unplugged the factory amp to disable it.
couple more hours for the door and deck speakers.(kickers all around)
1000 watt mono for the sub and a 900x4 for the speakers.

i have a version of mitchell on demand for the wiring diagram to choose the right wires going to the speakers. kickin ass and going deaf for the last 6 years since i put it in.
definately better than factory.
 
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