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Discussion Starter #1
ok i am getting confused with this.......first off the system i will be running is a AQ2200d amp pushin a orion hcca 15.2, i have been told in order to properly power this amp i will need to upgrade my big 3 and add a second battery. adding the battery is where the confusion comes in. i have been told different things. first off i plan to locate it in my trunk so i plan to run 0 gauge + cable back to it, sum have said i need to run neg 0 gauge back to the front others say just ground it to the chassis. which is true???? also i have been told i will need to install an isolator but others have made no mention of this. as of right now my plan has been to simply run 0 gauge back to the battery ( batcap 2000) and ground it to the chassis. i am hoping for professional opinions on this not just speculation. thanks
 

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I won't speak as an expert - but I will just warn that there are LOTS of people who have NO idea how a battery isolator works. For the health of the batteries, I'm going to suggest that you install one, but is it required, no. The reason I have understood for running the battery ground to the engine/engine bay is for the best grounding of the system - but with doing a Big 3, I seriously don't see a reason to run a second big cable all the way to the front. Yes, run a big cable, but run it to a major hunk of metal in the trunk something with some heft to it.

I'm sure you plan on doing this, but for completeness, I'm going to mention that you need to fuse the battery with in like 6-10 inches of the positive terminal in the trunk - and I would also do the same up at the jump post up under the hood. Fused for protection from a short both directions in case of damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the grounding source i planned to use was where the rear seat back bolts down.... and as for the fuses i planned to run 1..200 amp right behind the starter battery and another between the amp and rear battery
 

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You'll want to isolate the long heavy cable that goes from each battery - consider this - if you fuse just at the front, and you pierce the cable in the middle, the back battery will still pump juice after the front fuse goes. Same with the rear - if you only fuse the rear, and pierce the center of the cable, the front will still pump juice.

That is a good grounding source in my speculation - but as you said, you would like installer or professional opinion. Those points are in pretty good structure though, because that is the seat belt point. The biggest thing to remember there is to scrape the paint away for the best grounding contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so ur sayin i should probally be safe and fuse at 3 locations 1 behind the starter battery and 1 on each end of the rear battery? and where would be an optimum location for the isolator? behind the front fuse i would assume.....and yes ur opinion on the ground is exactly the reason i felt it to be a good choice.... paint already gone from amps i previously installed lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
and what i meant when i said professional opinion was that i didn't want somebody just to say "well i did this and it seems to work fine" with absolutely no knowledge behind it, that type of answer is what confused me in the first place lol
 

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Heh, no problem. There are guys on here that have done installs and know what they are talking about, and I'm sure they will be along after a bit - some of them aren't as frequent but will be along to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea i know i have a pretty good grasp on it cuz i been playin with the stuff since i was a kid but never really took it to the level where a 2nd battery was needed, and when i do something i want to do it right the first time and hopfully learn something in the process
 
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