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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, I'm in need of an oil change now and have a few questions:

1. Is it a pain in the ass? (Never done an oil change before)
2. What kind of oil should I use? I hear about a lot of brands being good, but I'd like to see what the majority of Trep owners use.
3. Should I figure out a way to raise the Trep or should I be able to do it on flat ground?

Sorry for all the n00b questions!

Thanks in advance! :)
 

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do you have any Low low low profile ramps around your area? Its easy as pie with ramps, v.s. "LOOKING" for the "FIRST" time to jack her up, dont wanna risk her falling, and then stuck a $$$$$$ repair bill!, know-what Imean?, and it has happened to some of the senior members on here, so be careful, she's aBIGGGG ASSSED Car there!, and keep her cleannnnnnnn, like a Cleannn FFFfreak!,; )
 

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sweet lookin car there. If you have a garage or carport, and are relatively thin, u can crawl under and do it.

If no to any questions above, get ramps or pay for the service
 

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1. Is it a pain in the ass? (Never done an oil change before)
2. What kind of oil should I use? I hear about a lot of brands being good, but I'd like to see what the majority of Trep owners use.
3. Should I figure out a way to raise the Trep or should I be able to do it on flat ground?
1: Not knowing your mechanical expertise I can only judge it from your question. Best advice, find a friend who has done this before to help you with the first one or two changes

2: Mobil 1 is always a solid choice, pricey but worth it

3: I could never get under a car while it is on the ground and work, I even lift my wifes Explorer up to get more room to work. Plus remember you will need room for your drain pan.
 

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1. Not that bad. Many cars I can think of are worse.
2. You'll get as many opinions here as there are brands. I use Amsoil full synthetic in my 3.2, but it's pricey. I figure it's worth it because I don't have to change as often, so the cost comes out close to dino oil, plus I don't have to get dirty as frequently. If you use a dino oil, my personal recommendation is Castrol GTX and change every 4-5K miles or 4 months. Get a quality oil filter like Purolator Pure One.
Whatever filter you get, be sure it has flutes on the end so a cup style wrench will fit it. I made the mistake of putting one on that was totally smooth, and had a rough time getting it off; there's just no room for a strap type wrench. They tend to stick on pretty tight after getting good & hot over a period of time.
3. Raising it a few inches helps a lot. Get a couple of 4" solid cement blocks and some pieces of wood for a ramp. Just that little bit makes it sooo much easier. But it can be done with the car on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
VEry Sharp Sexy Ass Car, you have there Bro!!! :) Welcome too!, ;), How many miles are on her as we speak?
Thanks. :) She's got 97,3xx now... I love her. Having some other troubles too if you all don't mind giving opinions...

A mechanic told me that withh 100,000 miles comes the replacement of the timing chain, water pump and few other things. Anyone know if that's accurate?

Also, my car shudders whenever the AC is on mostly, but also when I'm going uphill around 1700RPMs... The mechanic told me it's the compressor or something, but why would it do that when AC is completely off? :(

Thanks for all your help with the oil change stuff! :)
 

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It's easy to do
Mobil 1 10w30.

Yes you need to replace the timing belt and water pump at 100,000 miles. Don't have to change out the water pump but most do since you have to get into that area anyway and you would have to pull the timing belt to get to it.

Take off the A/C belt and try driving for a few miles. This way you can rule out the compressor. Even with it off it still spins and the barring might be fried or close to it on the pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's easy to do
Mobil 1 10w30.

Yes you need to replace the timing belt and water pump at 100,000 miles. Don't have to change out the water pump but most do since you have to get into that area anyway and you would have to pull the timing belt to get to it.

Take off the A/C belt and try driving for a few miles. This way you can rule out the compressor. Even with it off it still spins and the barring might be fried or close to it on the pulley.
Also, the mechanic quoted me $600 for the timing chain work. That a fair price or is that pricey or a steal?
 

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Oil Change = SUPER EASY!

Preferred Oil = Mobil1 High Mileage 10w30 if it's hot outside... in the winter use 5w30 or 0w30

From a shop, the price for the timing chain work sounds correct... if they are replacing the tensioners AND the chain.

For the AC shuttering, you might need a new AC belt tensioner pully. It might have a bad bearing.
 

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Get a couple of 4" solid cement blocks and some pieces of wood for a ramp. Just that little bit makes it sooo much easier. But it can be done with the car on the ground.
You NEVER want to use concrete blocks to support a car. My dad told me that people die under cars all the time doing that. He said it was because there isnt really a way to tell if concrete is strong without it crumbling... With a car on top of it.
 

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You NEVER want to use concrete blocks to support a car. My dad told me that people die under cars all the time doing that. He said it was because there isnt really a way to tell if concrete is strong without it crumbling... With a car on top of it.
Did you notice I said SOLID concrete blocks? I don't even know if concrete blocks is the correct term, but they are 4" high by about 12" long by about 8" wide. I was not talking about the 8 inch high blocks that have two large holes; I'd agree that they aren't a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As you can probably tell, I'm not very car savvy, so I don't feel too comfortable taking off belts and stuff... Haha.
 
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