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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, Some of you know the oil pump in my trep died and caused the lifters to bite the dust. Well before I rip out the engine and hop to it im still thinking about on how to do this. Should I replace the oil pump, lifters and god knows what else is bad or should I do a complete rebuild and turn it into a 3.5L, ASP pulley, LX manifolds, Electric water pump, change out timing belt and such? My buddy at dodge can get me a 3.5L PCM dirt cheap and a few other parts, the rest im on my own. Most of the parts are a no brainier but converting the 3.2 into a 3.5 is the hard part. What actions should I consider and do? Does it use the same cylinders and use a different Cam or Crank? Or would I need to take the block in to get bored out? In all heres my list.

3.2L to 3.5L convert
ASP pulley
Oil Pump
Lifters
Electric Water pump
LX exhaust manifolds
Bore out throttle
Intake manifold spacer
Throttle Body spacer
Timing belt and tensioner replacement
Cruise control delete (doesn't work and I never needed one)
EGR Delete
Solid Motor Mounts
Transgo Shiftkit

A lot o do and a lot of money but this is going to be worth it. Might as well go for the gold and get all of the mods done and out of the way. If I ever blow up this motor i'll just buy a 4.0L or get rid of the trep and buy a mustang.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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I would say just get a super low mile 3.5 HO out of an 04-- and convert it to 98-01 using your 3.2 external parts, then do all the mods. If the oil pump failed the damage to bearings, etc is probably pretty bad. You would most likely be looking at a full rebuild once you got it torn down and inspected. As for converting it to a 3.5-- pistons are very hard to get for both engines-- and are available only thru Chrysler at a cost of $140 each, with the connecting rods attached-- this is what I had to get when I rebuilt my 3.2, very costly. By the time your done converting a 3.2 to a 3.5, you can just get a 3.5 with like 10k miles on it and install your mods-- lx manifolds, electric water pump (not sure how your going to do that when timing belt drives it), etc, rather than re-building the whole engine.

In case you do decide to rebuild, theres some pics in my sig thread from mine which should give you an idea what your getting into.
 

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Ouch! I knew we all have come to a general consensus that the lifters were making noise, didn't realize you figured out the oil pump s**t the bed too. Didn't your oil light ever come on?
 

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Ouch! I knew we all have come to a general consensus that the lifters were making noise, didn't realize you figured out the oil pump s**t the bed too. Didn't your oil light ever come on?
my pump **** the bed and my oil light never came on. i was told something about pressure only make the oil light come on.

i'd just get a used 3.5 tcp. even if the pump failure didnt cause so much damage that you might be able to rehab it. it might have still shortened the life of some of the internal parts that are in okay order.

basically for peace of mind just "replace" not "repair" as repairing is usually just a band aid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I was told that the oil pump might of died and caused the lifters to die and that would explain why oil was coming out of the TB. I won't know until I pull the engine and take a look see. How much does used 3.5L engines run for? Thing is I don't have much money and rebuilding would be easier on the pocket since I wouldn't have to toss around a grand or two at once.
 

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I was told that the oil pump might of died and caused the lifters to die and that would explain why oil was coming out of the TB. I won't know until I pull the engine and take a look see. How much does used 3.5L engines run for? Thing is I don't have much money and rebuilding would be easier on the pocket since I wouldn't have to toss around a grand or two at once.
same deal as my 2.7. the oil pump died causing no oil circulation causing a "burn in" and starving the engine of oil after a while. this caused a metal on metal friction which eventually froze my engine.

you might of caught yours early enough to rehab it but if burn in started or metal on metal friction started rehabing that will be hard, very hard. i took a look at mines and couldnt figure out how in the hell i was even driving around on that. check for metal or a mixture of other fluids on the oil dipstick, also dropping your oil pan would help too. mines was full of metal

3.5's are normally in the range of $1500 - $2000 some yard may even have them waaay cheaper. if your lucky like me and NONE of your local yard have any (sarcasm) check here: http://www.car-part.com/

whatever the case hope you get her fixed soon and back on the road.
 

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If this is what you like to do, go for it. I work on my car mostly beause I enjoy it. But I can't help but think it would be easier and more reliable to drop in a used 3.5.

That 4.0 you mentioned, what engine is this?

The Mustang: a buddy has a Mustang Cobra with the 4.6 DOHC engine. It's a fantastic engine. I keep looking under the hood, wondering if I could shoehorn on of those under the hood of my Intrepid. I know, I just wandered right of the rails of practical.

I always thought the biggest let down Dodge did on the Intrepid was no V8 with rear wheel drive.

Jim Snover

Ok, Some of you know the oil pump in my trep died and caused the lifters to bite the dust. Well before I rip out the engine and hop to it im still thinking about on how to do this. Should I replace the oil pump, lifters and god knows what else is bad or should I do a complete rebuild and turn it into a 3.5L, ASP pulley, LX manifolds, Electric water pump, change out timing belt and such? My buddy at dodge can get me a 3.5L PCM dirt cheap and a few other parts, the rest im on my own. Most of the parts are a no brainier but converting the 3.2 into a 3.5 is the hard part. What actions should I consider and do? Does it use the same cylinders and use a different Cam or Crank? Or would I need to take the block in to get bored out? In all heres my list.

3.2L to 3.5L convert
ASP pulley
Oil Pump
Lifters
Electric Water pump
LX exhaust manifolds
Bore out throttle
Intake manifold spacer
Throttle Body spacer
Timing belt and tensioner replacement
Cruise control delete (doesn't work and I never needed one)
EGR Delete
Solid Motor Mounts
Transgo Shiftkit

A lot o do and a lot of money but this is going to be worth it. Might as well go for the gold and get all of the mods done and out of the way. If I ever blow up this motor i'll just buy a 4.0L or get rid of the trep and buy a mustang.
 

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If this is what you like to do, go for it. I work on my car mostly beause I enjoy it. But I can't help but think it would be easier and more reliable to drop in a used 3.5.

That 4.0 you mentioned, what engine is this?

The Mustang: a buddy has a Mustang Cobra with the 4.6 DOHC engine. It's a fantastic engine. I keep looking under the hood, wondering if I could shoehorn on of those under the hood of my Intrepid. I know, I just wandered right of the rails of practical.

I always thought the biggest let down Dodge did on the Intrepid was no V8 with rear wheel drive.

Jim Snover
the 4.0L engine he speaks of is the one from the nitro iirc.
 

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my pump **** the bed and my oil light never came on. i was told something about pressure only make the oil light come on.
Actually pressure makes the light go off.
 

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Actually pressure makes the light go off.
dont remeber exact wording but it had to do with oil pressure and mines was still good enough to keep the light off.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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dont remeber exact wording but it had to do with oil pressure and mines was still good enough to keep the light off.
The light comes on at something ridiculous like 1 or 2 psi-- its almost too late by the time it does. The minimum for a 2.7 at idle is 5-8 psi, same for the 3.2/5.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thing is if I buy a used 3.5 wouldn't I have to rebuild it? The thing I don't like about used engines is that who knows whats wrong with it until you drop it in and start it. For 4 grand I can get a Nitro's 4.0 longblock or 2 grand for a short block.

Thing is when I was trying a few things in that last thread people were shooting at me I did a oil change and tossed in a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) and 4 quarts of Mobile 1 10w30. Wouldn't chunks of metal fall out when the old oil was draining? When I get off of work today I'm going to clean the garage out and start on the car. Drain the oil, pull off the plenum, wire harness, heads and I guess I'll drop the pan to check for metal shavings.
 

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Thing is if I buy a used 3.5 wouldn't I have to rebuild it? The thing I don't like about used engines is that who knows whats wrong with it until you drop it in and start it. For 4 grand I can get a Nitro's 4.0 longblock or 2 grand for a short block.

Thing is when I was trying a few things in that last thread people were shooting at me I did a oil change and tossed in a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) and 4 quarts of Mobile 1 10w30. Wouldn't chunks of metal fall out when the old oil was draining? When I get off of work today I'm going to clean the garage out and start on the car. Drain the oil, pull off the plenum, wire harness, heads and I guess I'll drop the pan to check for metal shavings.
i guess if you get a 3.5 from a scrapper you can listen to it before having it pulled.

not sure if you would necessarily have to rebuild it but inspecting it is needed.

i had my oil changed 4 times (since my ownership) 2 of whice were days apart before it finally went out on me. when draining the oil it didnt have chunks of oil in it at all. even the oil in the filter was pretty good.
(my guess would be that because there's minimal to no oil cirulation metal woulnd really move anywhere :dunno: im no mechanic nor do i claim to be)
the dipstick had shiny particles on it once the engine finally blew.

however, once the oil pan was dropped, metal was abundant. my mechanic said my pump had to of been clogged since i got the car (5months of ownership at that point). and the 4 oil changes were more than likely pointless as the oil wasnt circulating fast enough anyway. it just completely hampered out once the pump completely go clogged. by that time my block was pretty frozen and past the point of salvage. i assume this might be the same with yours, especially since your engine is bigger than mines and can take more abuse. hopefully it isnt and it will save you some cost.

will the nitro engine be an easy drop in? also why go nitro isnt it only like 5hp higher than a 3.5 h.o? correct me if im wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I haven't started on the inspection of the engine yet. Too damn hot out.

The 4.0 is 5 more HP then the 3.5L but it's basically a new updated 3.5L when you get down to it. The swap should be easy. Just use the oil pan and intake. The rest should bolt up quite nice. The Valve system in the heads are different also. The 3.2/3.5 uses Hydraulic end-pivot roller followers while the 4.0 uses hydraulic center-pivot roller rocker arms. In all im in it for the more torque. 3.5 has 250 @ 3900 RPM while the 4.0 has 262 @ 4,100 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can make my own wire harnesses or even get a wire harness for the motor. From what I was told it's the same programing as the 3.5L PCM. Right now I have a friend of a friend trying to locate a cheap 3.5L that runs. It started to rain just as I pulled the drain plug for the oil. So tomorrow i'll pull off the oil pan and take a look see.
 
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