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Discussion Starter #22
This is my wife's daily, not a street and strip vehicle. I have no desire to own a souped up Intrepid. And the only reason I am doing it is even with all the parts I have bought and the time, it's still cheaper to rebuild and "restore" this vehicle than it is to find and buy a decent "new" used vehicle. Besides engine swapping an 02 Intrepid isn't exactly my idea of a worthwhile mod. There are better vehicles to do that to.
 

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This is my wife's daily, not a street and strip vehicle. I have no desire to own a souped up Intrepid. And the only reason I am doing it is even with all the parts I have bought and the time, it's still cheaper to rebuild and "restore" this vehicle than it is to find and buy a decent "new" used vehicle. Besides engine swapping an 02 Intrepid isn't exactly my idea of a worthwhile mod. There are better vehicles to do that to.
fair enough. seams like your spending time to make things right so the car should run well when your done. ill keep watching your progess :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Even though it is only a daily and getting a stock rebuild, if you are going to do a job, you do it right or you don't do it at all. I don't cut corners and details are key. Besides, business is a little slow right now, the only vehicles I have in my shop at the moment are vehicles that were already here before the whole outbreak. Not too many people wanting to spend the money to restore their classics. So I have plenty of time on my hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
3rd cleaning of the block did it. I am happy with it. 2 hours with a drill brush and some LA's Totally Awesome, got the bores 100% clean. Still some slight spots inside the crank case, but after 2 hours with a drill brush, if it isn't clean, it ain't gonna come clean unless I give it a bath. Not paying to have that done. Re-honed the bore, you can see my beautiful 45 degree marks for the oil in there. And finally, all the journals for the crankshaft are clean. I also cleaned out the oil passages in the crankshaft. Sprayed everything down with WD40 and will let the crankshaft soak in that until tomorrow when I go back, hit the journals with some 380 emery cloth and re-punch th eoil passages with a brush. Overall, happy with how it turned out.
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Oh, did run into one problem. The key pin, that holds the crankshaft timing sprocket in place on the crankshaft mushroomed over, so I was unable to remove it from the crankshaft. Will have to center punch it, drill it out, clean the hole then get a new pin. Pain in the ass, but not a huge problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The final part I needed for the short block rebuild arrived yesterday and Houston, we have a problem. The housing on the left is supposedly the direct OEM replacement direct from MOPAR. But as you can see, there are some pretty significant differences. First and foremost, the rear main seal is directly injected into the housing, The new part doesn't have the seal on the bottom part that bolts to the oil pan, the holes where the oil pan bolts go into the housing are welded on nuts that are just ever so slightly bigger than the bolts themselves, and finally, the whole damn thing just looks fragile it's a pressed piece while the original is molded and looks much sturdier.

Now, the reason I am replacing this part is that the seal on the original is completely worn and there is NO replacement for it, it's basically an injected seal that does not come out. I do have a new rear main seal that will work with the old housing, but not the new one.

I have 2 choices. 1> I can use the new part and with a little RTV, and new bolts to make it work. Or 2> I can use the original one, and with some RTV around the edges ignore the old injected seal being careful to not get any RTV on the old seal because that can cause problems. And use the rear main seal from my kit.

Just kinda wondering what everyone thinks.
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Discussion Starter #27
I have decided to go with the original part and just use a little RTV on the edges where it wont touch the original seal. I think it will be better than using the replacement piece as it just has too many differences for me to feel comfortable using. Still wondering what others think.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Pistons installed...........mostly. I got them all installed, then on the last one I wasn't paying attention and didn't get one of the rings cinched down and I broke it, yeah, I broke it real bad, 3 pieces. Luckily, having my head squarely up my ass didn't damage the bore. SO I ordered a new set, which is $56 shipped and I have to wait until Monday. Let this be a lesson to you, don't get too much into a rhythm and fubar it! Inner bolts for the mains are 20 ftlbs and 1/4 turn, so I torqued to 20 ftlbs, then did 2 45 degree in order. For the Connecting rods, it's 40 ftlbs and 1/4 turn, so I did 20, then 40 and then again two 45 degrees. I find that an even enough torque rotation, it spins great so far. So other than my own idiocy, it's going rather well.

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Since I cannot install that last piston, I went ahead and installed the oil pump and rear main seal housing. Would have installed the crankshaft timing sprocket, but the key still hasn't arrived. I did wind up putting grey RTV on the edge of the rear housing then hand tightened the bolts for it, will torque and install the seal once I get the engine back on the hoist. The RTV did well, although I put a 1/16th bead on it, so it didn't gush out every where. Oil pump is only torqued to 250 inlbs, but it's installed evenly and looks good.
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Discussion Starter #31
I wanted to add that I lubricate all the bolts with a little bit of transmission oil. And yes, my hands are all scared up from 27+ years of wrenching on vehicles. Not sure how my knuckles got skinned this time, I looked down and there it was, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
My new injectors arrived today. So the ole girl is getting a new fuel pump assembly as well. When installing new injectors you should always pull and clean out the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump. This safeguards the new injectors from old dirt and debris that may be hiding in your fuel system. I also always pump out at least a gallon of fuel into a gas can just to flush out the lines. Cleaning out a fuel tank is easy, a little soap and water, some shop air to dry it out and it's done. The fun part is actually pulling the tank, considering our winter road conditions here in Iowa, the bolts are probably rusty as hell and I will most likely need new ones. The straps are not in such bad condition that they cannot be restored, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. By the way, these are remanufactured injectors. Like new, but about 75% the cost. These were around $160 plus the core charge at $10 a pop. Will be sending in my old ones for my return. For anyone wondering about the new pump I bought Delphi model FG0279, and the injectors are GB Remanufacturing 812-12127. I've been getting a lot of my new parts from Stock Wise. Sometime, I plan on sitting down and writing a forum post that includes all the parts and their numbers I bought and used in my rebuild, including where I bought them.

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Discussion Starter #33
I disassembled, cleaned then reassembled the rocker arm assemblies. They are now soaking in an oil/tranny fluid mixture until installation. I tore down both heads, cleaned them and have assembled one of them minus the camshaft, which I will install once the head is mounted to the block.
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Discussion Starter #34
So, I go to install the new expansion/freeze plugs and for the life of me, they will not go in. Keep trying and keep trying, nada. Stop, take a look at them, and they are approx. 1/8" too BIG! Alright, I'll stop this and install the crankshaft timing sprocket. Get the new key in, which arrived today and notice that I have a major ding on the sprocket. A big enough of one that it will chafe the timing belt and in all probability break it, thus destroying my newly build 3.5. Said "**** this, I need a break" and stomped out of my shop. Now I need to find the proper freeze plugs and buy a new crankshaft timing sprocket.

I love what I do, but sometimes, I really hate it!
 

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Hi, been watching your thread, I appreciate your details and pictures, thanks. The biggest thing I always think about with a project like this is if I didn't do something the right way it's going to be a big job to do it all over again. I hope reusing the rear main seal housing works for you and it doesn't leak.
 

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Hi, been watching your thread, I appreciate your details and pictures, thanks. The biggest thing I always think about with a project like this is if I didn't do something the right way it's going to be a big job to do it all over again. I hope reusing the rear main seal housing works for you and it doesn't leak.
People have posted of doing similar things on the rear seal since they never came out with a complete and compatible replacement. They were generally successful with the innovative solutions, generally involving RTV.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I got the cylinder heads installed, but something is bothering me. I can feel it in my gut that something is wrong. I think it is partially because the heads came out of an 06 Pacifica and in that vehicle the engine is transversely mounted and the Intrepids are longitudinally mounted. It just feels like my cylinder heads are installed on the wrong side of the block. The fifth picture is straight down from the top of the engine, the front of the engine being on the left side of the pic. You can clearly see the D and P are on the correct sides, but something still feels off. Just looking for a second opinion. The crappy thing is, I already torqued the bolts, so if they are on wrong, I will have to buy new head bolts and a new set of gaskets, not a big deal. I did manually spin the crank and everything runs really smooth, to pings or clicks, but that doesn't mean much yet. But rather spend the cash on new hardware than a new engine if I screwed it up Like I said, just looking for another opinion, what do you guys think?
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The only thing I can comment on is that if you check the FSM, I believe it says you can re-use the head bolts if there is no necking down (checked with a straight edge), in spite of them being torque-to-yield.
 
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