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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking for a nice 1st gen lhs and i found one today that seems quite nice. Its a 94 with 130k miles, and has everything but the sunroof (was that a standard item and deleted or was it actually an option?).

I took it for an extended drive, it drove quite nicely except for some vibrations upon accelleration at times (very mild but I am being picky). IT doesn't feel like tire vibration, is it something I should be concerned about? The other things wrong with it are the passenger door lock doesn't work (the swtich works, but it doesn't go up/down), the down button on the mirror switch doesn't work (mirrors don't go down either side), the power attennna was repalced with a non-power attenna, and the pass fender has a crack right by the top of it by the winsheild (someone at jiffy lube left someting on the fender when the hood was closed which then pushed the hood up a bit and cracked the fender, very mild, but its cracked).

The only onther thing that really concerns me is there is a vibration/rumble that occured occasionally while we were test driving the car (not the slight vibration that occured upon accelleration). Happened about 3 times during the one hour we drove the car, what happened was there was a vibration/rumble that felt like to me almost like the abs brakes were kicking in. Is that the traction control? This occured while on a straightaway while we were not flogging the car or anything. Is that normal or something to be concerned about? The pavement wasn't in perfect condtion when it happened.

The person is asking 3000 for the car which includes a set of really nice studded snows mounted on steel rims for the winter.

Is this a decent deal and something we should jump on?
 

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Not really sure what it's worth as far as the bluebook. Your local library usually has bluebooks you can check out or you can go in any bookstore and take a look at a copy. As far as the vibration, could be a number of things.....maybe just needs a tune-up or could be a main bearing problem. Ask the owner if he has any records of maintenance. The only thing about buying a car like that from a private owner is that there is no warranty. maybe you might want to find one at a dealer. you would at least get a limited warranty and you could even buy an extra warranty and have it added in. i bought one for my 92 New Yorker...cost me an extra $900 but was worth it when my tansmission crapped out 2 weeks after I bought it (cost $1500 to rebuild). 130k for a car that is that old isn't bad, especially if they are highway miles, but the only thing about buying a car with all the electronic gadgets and whatnot is that it is more to fix. And a car that old is bound to have some of them not working. I don't know, if i was you I would try to get some more info (maybe a carfax report) or look for another one if your heart is set on that particular model. You might find one in better shape and less miles for around the same price. Remember, if a dealer sells you a lemon you at least got a warranty even if it is only 30 days (in which time you will discover if there is a problem)...a private owner on the other hand knows that once you buy the car, it is your problem, and they sure aren't going to tell you because they want to get rid of it. I don't know...just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I am not too concerned about the little things. I can fix things like the power lock motor, power atenna, etc. Its the growling/vibration that we heard that lasted for about 2 to 3 seconds while we were drving the car that concerns me. Is that the traction control kicking in?

I went to kellybluebook.com and punched in the car for private party value and it came up with $4535 which I know is on the high end so I would have to say that its still a fair price.

As for warrantys here, NO used car has to provide any warranty unless you pay extra for it from a used car dealer and most of the used dealers usually don't have them. There is NO 3000 mile/3 month mandatory warranty or anything from any dealer for older cars. When I lived in CT, if I remember correctly, used car dealers had to provide a 3000 mile/3 month warranty but thats not how it is in washington state. So even if I bought from a dealer, it doesn't afford me any extra provisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well can anyone answer me?? What exactly does the traction control feel like when it kicks in? When it kicks in, does it make the vibrations like when abs brakes are kicking in? is it normal for it to do it 2 to 3 times while drving in a 1 hour period??

If its normal, then I will feel much better about the car, but I really want someone to tell me how the traction control kicking in feels like and if it isn't the traction control, what exactly does it feel like?
 

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The only time you should "feel" anything from the ABS is when you stomp on the brake pedal really really hard. (did I say "really"?) Then it will pulse. As far as traction control, you shouldn't feel anything from that. All traction control does is apply the brake to the wheel that is spinning faster than the other one. You shouldn't "feel" anything from that either. If the system was malfunctioning, the light would come on for the ABS/Traction control. You only have traction control if there is a switch for it on the right side of the steering wheel. No switch, no traction control. '94 had a bad seal design in the transmision. They usually failed at 80k to 100k. This may be your noise. I have seen some of these transmision grenade themselves internally. Not pretty and not cheap. There is a place in Pheonix that is selling rebuilt transmisions for these cars for about $900 with a warrenty-

http://www.phoenixhardparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRT&Product_Code=A606+(42LE)&Category_Code=CAT1

My guess would be the trans if it has never been done.
 

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the noise can also come from a Bad Velocity joint (one of the front half shafts). these make an odd "vibration" when you give it gas.... and also will "vibrate" if you go over a small bump and stress the suspension (like if you are bottoming out... but not fully bottoming out.....). These aren't *too* expensive... and aren't crazily difficult to replace...... and usually will last another 20,000 miles if you don't have the means to change it rigth away.
 
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