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Discussion Starter #1
ok today for some reason the ac/heat unit wouldnt turn off. it stayed on. i drove with heat the whole way to work. everything else in the car works fine. Sometimes u the unit will turn on like u can hear it but no digits or lights would show up on the unit. could someone help me with this one thanks

steve
 

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That is default mode when the ATC detects a critical error do the test to find what codes are causing the problem you can find the test procedures in the how-to section under first gen.
 

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yep, I'd say it's about time to send yours off to be fixed. I just sent mine off about a year ago on my Concorde. I'll get you a link here in a bit. I haven't had any major problems with the rebuilt one yet. I did have it attempt to cook me to death last week. It was about 80 degrees outside and for some reason the stupid thing was putting out heat through my dash vents. It let me switch the vent positions, and the temperature was set at 60 and it would let me change it all the way to 90 but it stayed hot air, even with the AC on. My AC works great too, rather impressive that it blows ice cold when the car is 12 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i did the the headunit test with the holding of the 3 buttons to get a code. It didnt find any. I bought a head unit from the junkyard a while back because with the original head unit if anyone remembers (MAtt) the rear defroster didnt work. well the junk yard unit is putting out the 12v to the window but now the ac unit is turning on by itself. So i put in my original head unit. the ac works. it doesnt turn on by itself but the rear defroster dont work. lolol. what a *****. So i didnt want to drive around with the ac turning on and killing my gas mileage so i put my old unit back in and ac works good but rear defroster is shot. lololol. i might go to junkyard and give it another shot with another head unit. Aparently something is wrong with these head units. I know a new one at the dealer is $400. im not good with ebay. I dont know how that works at all. I dont have a paypal account or even know how it works. but the deal on ebay sounds good with exchanging units for 70 bucks. I have to go to junkyard anyways because i have a ton of items to pickup. 1 drivers side pillar,2 drivers side seatbelt retractor is shot so gonna get one of those,see if i can get a front bumper emblem gold chrysler symbol. someone tried to steal mine and cracked it to bits. shop book says to heat it up to 100 degrees farenhiet to remove it. someone used a flat head screwdriver and tried there thing.,3 spare tire cover charcoal grey is bent to crap. will see if i could get one of those too. that should be it for my list. oh and another ac/heat head unit.
 

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The codes thing was a great idea on Chrysler's part. Imagine trying to diagnois all those vacuum lines, diaphams, doors, sensors etc. So far I've never seen any of those fail. 3 times it's been an internal problem with the head unit.

I have so little trust in those I have 2 spares.
 

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Replaced mine as well dealer said there is a loose wire that needs soldering. But they didn't fix them anymore!
 

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94_Concorde said:
yep, I'd say it's about time to send yours off to be fixed. I just sent mine off about a year ago on my Concorde. I'll get you a link here in a bit. I haven't had any major problems with the rebuilt one yet. I did have it attempt to cook me to death last week. It was about 80 degrees outside and for some reason the stupid thing was putting out heat through my dash vents. It let me switch the vent positions, and the temperature was set at 60 and it would let me change it all the way to 90 but it stayed hot air, even with the AC on. My AC works great too, rather impressive that it blows ice cold when the car is 12 years old.
Code 23 blend motor try turning the temp control up then down slowly and you should notice a change in temperature, oh yea my 95 Concorde would blow ice out of the vents I remember in Nebraska it was like 90 degress outside and in the car it was so cold I could see my breath.
 

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Yeah, my temp control works great now! I ran codes and it didn't show anything so I turned the car off and back on and it fixed the problem.

Steven, I do remember you buying the other headunit. That sucks that the other is going bad too. Those ATC heads are notorious for going bad though. At one time I had three units (my 94 Concorde one, a 95 LHS one, and a 97 LHS one), they all had ATC head unit failure (code36).

I'm suprised that their repair cost has gone up! I think I paid around $50 for mine, I thought that was fairly resonable. Next, I'm gonna have to send off a radio or two and have them fixed. My six disc changer's buttons are starting to act up and I also have a single disc w/ tape that has the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was just heading to junkyard now as we speak. unit comes on and no lights all by itself. its possessed. sometimes shoot hot or cold air. i was thinking that ebay route. im gonna try yard again. i have to get a bunch of things there anyway. i will let u know how it goes. will alcohol work good on the contacts inside the unit. I dont know which unit to disasemble first. lolol. the one with no ac or the one with no defrost. i know the ac one that does work is good cause it wont waste gas on the car. but the other is defroster is shot for the rear. i replaced relays on the system. i had my mechanic check it out and he said a wire was bad and the head unit. It was working great till the other day and this is with the unit from the junkyard. i will see. let me get another one at the yard and hope it works for a while. if it does work i will mess with the other 2. i know a little of electronics on soldering and stuff. the one from the junkyard. dont know where its been. the other dude with the concorde could of dropped coffee,soda,ABUSED IT to know end. and im stuck with it. so let me go. thanks for all your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i got another one and everything works so far. not sure on the lights inside since its still daylight here. i also got a drivers seatbelt assembly. both for 50 bucks. I needed a new round emblem in the front. he threw that in. no cost on it. Now I will drive it around and test this unit and hopefully it wont act up. I have a 30 day warranty on it. if it works ok for a week or 2 i will dismantle both or 1 of the others and clean and check for cold solder joints in the system. also change the bulbs. There are 4 bulbs in the unit. Maybe i could make 1 good unit out of the parts.

shop manual says to heat the emblem on the car to over 100 degrees to get it off the glue. What glue can i use to put the better one on the car. Any ideas of a adheasive to use
 

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I bought a tube of plastic emblem and trim adhesive from advance or Wal Mart, I'm not sure which, but it works pretty good. Another option would be to buy some two sided tape. That's basically what it is that they put on there. I would say there, the thinner the tape the better. I used two sided tape for a while when I put the round emblem on my car, it actually stuck almost too well, but what I used was almost too thick so it stuck out a bit, not real noticable though.

Are you replacing the gold emblem itself or the painted trim around it too? If just the gold emblem, then I'd recommend the glue. If the whole assy. then I'd recommend using the glue or the double stick tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the guy at the junkyard ripped the whole emblem off with the plastic surrounding. To bad he took it from a brownish looking car so the emblem has a brown molded plastic peice around the emblem. i will have to take that off carefully. im replacing just the gold emblem itself. do u recall the name of the glue. i did by adheasive stuff in a tube like rtv type crap. will see. im cleaning up the seat belt assembly now. alot of dirt hair and stuff on it. want to shape it up before shoving it in car over weekend. thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well i took apart one of the ac/heat control unit and found r36 (resister i think) didnt have color bars on it but was blue with a ohm value of 34. The cylinder was burnt to chrisp. Will have to see if a radioshack carries this thing. I also resoldered some cold connections and cleaned some contacts with alcohol. seemed like a lot of moisture got in there and did its thing. Hopefully this unit will work. I will wait now for the one in my car to die before i change it because the one in the car is working excellent and i dont want to mess with it since its working.
 
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