DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Damn Car !!!! 95 ES going to hell (update)

up until yesterday, my problems with this car have been minor.
yesterday, my cooling fans quit working and overheated, and started getting all sorts of codes
31
32
33 twice
35 twice
65
I don't have any fuses blown, the relays have been changed. The car hasn't had working ac for about 4 years now. could all these problems be ignition switch related?
I just put a newer low mile engine in that was when I first had problems with the cooling fans, they went on as soon as the car started and stayed on. cts was changed out.
I really don't have the money to bring this thing in anywhere, so am looking for hits and clues as to where to target my searches and possible fixes or solutions.

so if anyone can help, I will be eternally gratefull

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
31** Open or shorted condtion detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit

32** Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit

33* Open or shorted condtion detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit

35** Open or shorted condition detected in the control circuit of the low/high speed radiator fan

65**No release of brake switch seen after too many accelerations

Unhook the EGR vac lines and plug them until you can afford a new one. Plug the 2 spots in connect to the back of the plenum with quarters. It will still throw a code, but you wont be running with a shitty EGR anymore, replace ASAP when you can afford it. 33 and 35 sound like they are due to bad wiring? Did you double check everything with the new engine? 65 may be due to your e-brake maybe being 1 notch down, or wiring as well. 31 may be due to having a bad purge solenoid. Check the wiring to it, its next to the air box. Sometimes that code has been known to come up and go away forever after a reset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
the car runs great, no idle problems. The egr is in very good shape. the engine only had 79,000 miles on it and no carbon buildup in the egr at all. I used my factory harness for the engine, they cut the plugs off at the yard. My biggest concern was why all these in one day at the same time? I am going to pick up the selonoids from the yard to do a test to see if anything changes. Going to try a used switch before spemding money on a new one All I know, is that I am just about ready to pull this thing in the back and use it to sight the deer rifle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
With so many codes appearing at the same time I would thoroughly check wiring before replacing anything. The power that supplies the EGR solenoid,Purge solenoid,and the coil side of the relays for A/C, high and low speed fan all are on the same circuit.The wires are all light green/Black tracer, some are 20ga some are 22ga. This circuit also supplies power to the manifold tuning valve and the heating element of the O2 sensors. This circuit has nothing to do with the brake switch though. I can only guess that the 65 code is refering to the service brake switch and not the parking brake switch. On cars with ABS there are also pedal travel sensors on the brake booster.
 
  • Like
Reactions: eagle88

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
alright, will dig up some diagrams and get the multimeter out

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
well started on it today.
I had a wire coming out of the plug with the yellow cap in ther fuse block right above the fuses ( light green/blk tracer) insulation was melted all the way up to the firewall. Had to pull the fender off to follow it. tomorrow i need to follow it all the way to the power dist. box and under the rad to the other selonoids. fans would kick on manually closing the relay, so I think everything from the power dist box to the fans is ok. I do have a question on the code 65 I looked at two differant sources, and they had diferant things for that code one was the No release of brake switch seen after too many accelerations. and the other said MANIFOLD TUNING VALVE SOLENOID CIRCUIT.
Condition is: open or shorted condition detected in Manifold Tuning
Valve (MTV) solenoid circuit. well hopefully i will get this figured out. I am wishing I was an electrician about now
If replacing the burned wire, and the problem is still there.

Is it possible that this could be a pcm problem?
cts even though the gauge is working?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
That LG/BK* wire with the melted insulation supplies power to the Manifold Tuning Valve among other things in my earlier post. This circuit has a fuse in the fuse box at the left end of the dash. The fuse should be on the bottom row of small fuses at the end toward the back of the car. Pull this fuse out or disconnect battery when you replace the wire. Before you re-connect power,check to be sure that circuit is not shorted to ground. If it is shorted to ground, a good place to start looking for the short would be in the power distribution center (under hood), that is where it supplies power to the coil side of the relays mentioned above. I am a bit confused as to why your fuse did not blow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I already have the power dist box torn apart, wires there look good, so i am going to keep pulling the harness apart until I find the shorted spot Or I may just run a new wire and splice into everything that connects to it and slide it into the harness. I would rather find the short to make sure that it didn't compromise any other wires. Thanks for all your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
Yep, if it were me I would rather find the shorted spot and repair it as opposed to replacing the whole damn harness. There was a recall on the part of the harness where it goes over the passenger side tie rod. The tie rod would rub through the harness. That wire goes through that harness and connects to one of the three (grouped together)connectors at the passenger side of the fire wall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
oops forgot to add the 65 code is in fact for the MTV. My info is from a '94 FSM, should be the same for your '95.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
did some work on the wiring today, the grren/blk wire was burned to the connecter that is about in the middle under the rad. then there was one burned going to pass side. I only followed it to the end of the rad. where it was looking ok. spliced in a new wire, started it up and the fans kicked on right away ran for about 3 min and popped the fuse. I think rather that opening up the rest of the harness, I am just going to run all new wire from the pass side. Pulled the connector off the egr solinoid and it was somewhat corroded. so maybe the problem lies there. or maybe an o2 sensor drawing to much power? Also when I started it up the gear indicator lights were all on in park and neutral any suggestions there? I was going to change the ignition switch, but couldn't find anything small enough to get the bolts out. Any one know exactly what size they are
What could possible be the problem for the fans coming on right away? That little box the fans plug into (cooling fan harness) is what the part number comes up as.
everyone who has replied has helped me out alot.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well time for a bit of an update. I replaced bad wires that I found. replaced the engine harness, found a bad spot in that also.
now my fuses arn't blowing right away. I have been driving the car to work for the last 5 or6 days and have had no problems. Short drives not long enought to get up to temp. If i go on a longer drive, I will get a code 32. Have replaced the selonoid and egr valve. I am all right until the car gets to temp. then the fuse will blow. If i change it without the car cooling down, it will blow again within a couple seconds to a couple min. Am i looking a a possible PCM problem? Do I need to look into the wire harbness a little bit more? I am contimplating changing out the harness, can get one for around 50.00 I am just not sure whether the under dash wiring is part of it also. I would appreciate any help or ideas that anyone can come up with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I have replaced wires for this entire circuit. replaced all solinoids and relays. Changed out the ignition switch. Have not changed O2 sensors yet. Have put my digital meter on this circuit, and it is showint 1.75-2.10 amps with the cooling fans running. I am running out of ideas on this thing. What else could possibly be causing this to continually happen? It is not happining right away, but rather 50-70 miles on the road. It seems like it is happening as soon as the temp gage goes up past the 1/4 mark, first line after the double lines I believe. temp doesn't go any higher than this when cruising. Could the pcm be shorting out internally and causing this? I don't want to get a differant pcm unless the odds are in favor of it being the culprit.

On a side note, I haven't been able to come up with any problem that is causing the fans to come on as soon as the engine starts. Have unplugged the ac thing on pass side and made no differance at all


Thanks
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top