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Discussion Starter #1
About a week ago I went to arm my car alarm (the alarm is a Viper 300ESP car alarm with impact sensor & proximity sensor), and the green LED light on my remote was already steadily on (when it shouldn't be). I was like "WTF!?" Sooo I assumed that the battery in the remote needed to be changed. Went to Target purchased the correct battery, installed it in the remote. Nothing. The green LED light is still on. My alarm will not arm, dearm, valet mode... nothing. The light on the (pardon my lack of knowledge about alarms) brain box thingy is a steady red. What's going on here? Do I need to take it to Circuit City to have them look at it? I bought the alarm like 3 or 4 years ago. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
~Tony~
 

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I would imagine that the steady state of the LED is an error message, if its not responding 3-4 yrs, its possible the alarm just fried/died. Since its not working I'd take it in to have it checked out, I wouldn't do circuit city but if your trust them, had work done there before or know someone then ok.

You can also try:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_topics.asp?FID=3

There are installers there who MAY be able to help you determine if the alarm's brain box, typically what its referred to as, is bad. It's also possible there could be somthing wrong with the alarms' power supply or a short, try the fuses feeding the alarm Just in case, as well as all the car's fuses.

You can also download the alarm's manual off Directed's Site, if they still have that model on their servers, the manual MAY have some troubleshooting tips for you:

www.directed.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #3
windowpane said:
I would imagine that the steady state of the LED is an error message, if its not responding 3-4 yrs, its possible the alarm just fried/died. Since its not working I'd take it in to have it checked out, I wouldn't do circuit city but if your trust them, had work done there before or know someone then ok.
The alarm worked great all of these years... then that one day last week... no worky. Which fuses should I check?
P.S.
A bad fuse wouldn't cause the remote LED to stay on... would it?
 

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Sounds like it needs the brain reset. If it was professionally installed, it should carry a lifetime warranty on the brain if i'm not mistaken. My mother had to have her remote start brain reset twice cause it went on the fritz.
 

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The fuses will be somewhere in the wiring harness under the dash. If a fuse went though, I don't think you would have a steady light on the unit. I would try disconnecting power from the unit for a little while to see if it resets itself. Unless you have a 2-way unit like the pager ones, a problem with the unit wouldn't make the light on your remote stay on because the alarm has no way of transmitting any kind of a signal to the remote. I'm thinking the problem with your remote caused the problem with the alarm. I'll take a look at your specific model and let you know.
 

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I would say it sounds like it went into valet mode,but if it was you would still be able to lock/unlock your doors..Like the other guys said try resetting it.Sometimes for one reason or another you might of had a spike and it tripped the circuit..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is resetting it something easy to do? If so how can I go upon doing it?

P.S.
Tim: Your going to have to get by the 4 rabid doberman's in the car first, then you can take the transmission. :smokin:
 

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I missed that you mentioned the remote has a steady light on and the unit itself, the remote *might* be bad if it has a steady light. I do not about that model, if the green light goes on when its armed or when you hit a button to indicate its transmitting, I would guess its the latter.
The red light I think is supposed to tell you the unit has power or is armed, maybe that it's in a learn mode for remotes, I just don't have the answer.

Resetting as was mentioned could be done by disconnecting the car's battery and that will cut power to the unit, before doing that yank the battery out of your remote incase it's stuck 'sending' some command to the unit. There also might be a switch to reset the brain, I'd wait on 00r/t.mopar.muscle who said he'd look into your alarm's model before doing anything more drastic than that.

The unit might show a steady red LED on the brain, if it had blown 1 of two fuses powering it, some alarms use two fused power lines, as I said I missed that you said you have a steady LED on the brain AND the remote. That might mean something different, and I think if the remote has a steady led, don't think it should do that, that might mean it's bad or stuck sending a command. The fuses for the alarm can be found by tracing back the wiring harness from the brain towards its power source, probably headed towards the ignition driver's kick panel area, and should be some very thick wires in comparison to other wire connectors.
 

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It took me awhile to find the manual because apparently DEI only lets dealers access their installation guides. Anyway, I looked at the guide and its totally useless. The troubleshooting section is a joke. "If the LED doesn't work, make sure it is connected" Man, I wouldn't take my car to an installer qhoe needs a guide like that! Sorry I couldn't help more but I really think it has something to do with the remote. Did you try pressing the arm button repeatedly while close to the car? This should retrain the code hopping if it was lost when you removed the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
00r/t.mopar.muscle said:
It took me awhile to find the manual because apparently DEI only lets dealers access their installation guides. Anyway, I looked at the guide and its totally useless. The troubleshooting section is a joke. "If the LED doesn't work, make sure it is connected" Man, I wouldn't take my car to an installer qhoe needs a guide like that! Sorry I couldn't help more but I really think it has something to do with the remote. Did you try pressing the arm button repeatedly while close to the car? This should retrain the code hopping if it was lost when you removed the battery.
Well during lunch time today I ripped apart the whole dash. Here's what I found: The LED light on the dash for the alarm was missing the bulb... I find it dangling about 3 inches from where it should have been. Ok, problem #1 solved... next thing I found was... nothing! Every fuse tested good with my work's fuse tester, and every wire that I could find going to the alarm's brain box was intact with no cuts, or anything like that. The remote's LED light completely died earlier after lunch. I went and bought a 12 volt battery (that is what it uses), installed the new Duracell battery, and still nothing. I called the local ricer shop... told him my story, asked him if he could order me a new remote for this. He said that would be "no problem sir" and that "if the NEW remote doesn't fix your problem, we won't charge you a dime for it." Sweet. Getting it on friday. I'm thinking that maybe the remote got somehow internally smacked around while in my pocket or something?
 

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crombie said:
Is resetting it something easy to do? If so how can I go upon doing it?

P.S.
Tim: Your going to have to get by the 4 rabid doberman's in the car first, then you can take the transmission. :smokin:
as long as they are IN the car, i won't have a problem as I don't need to get inside the car at all..
 

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crombie said:
He said that would be "no problem sir" and that "if the NEW remote doesn't fix your problem, we won't charge you a dime for it." Sweet. Getting it on friday. I'm thinking that maybe the remote got somehow internally smacked around while in my pocket or something?
Thats really good that hes not going to charge you so you can't really lose. I would be willing it is the remote just because you've been having problems with it and a problem with the brain wouldn't cause the remote to not operate properly. The new remote will need to be programmed for the alarm and if they're not a Viper dealer and don't have the install guide let me know and I'll get you the programming instructions(I found a way to get into the dealer site without a password). Good Luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
00r/t.mopar.muscle said:
Thats really good that hes not going to charge you so you can't really lose. I would be willing it is the remote just because you've been having problems with it and a problem with the brain wouldn't cause the remote to not operate properly. The new remote will need to be programmed for the alarm and if they're not a Viper dealer and don't have the install guide let me know and I'll get you the programming instructions(I found a way to get into the dealer site without a password). Good Luck!!
Wow! Your rock! Thanks so much!
Kudos for you!
P.S.
I will let you know what happens.
 
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