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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed an aftermarket deck and 2 amps in my old 2000 trep. I am trying to switch it over my "new" 2000 trep but it's a ES. Im trying to runs the wires to my door speakers but can't find a way to them from inside the car. There seems to be maybe a factory amp on the passenger side blocking the way I used in my older car. Anyone know how to pass the wires from in the car into the door speakers.
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Bitches be like...
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if you pull the boot off the door harness you can run wires through, it's a PITA and on the drivers side you're going to have to remove the BCM and parking brake to get in there, but I got 14GA through.





If you're just looking to splice in theres a connector under the passenger side sill plate that has all the wires in it for the stereo. Looks like this.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wanted to run all new wires to my speakers amp.
Wow that looks like a tough job, was so much easier on the base model
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The Midline and Infinity I systems had the amp in the passenger side footwell. Some SE/Base cars came with the Midline and most ES had the Infinity I. The Infinity II was only to be found in the 300m, LHS and some Concordes. The Infinity II amp is located in the trunk on the right sidewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright if i want to splice into the existing wires how would i do so. I put my alpine type s front door speakers and have no highs i guess because of a crossover for the tweets by the window. Any way to shut those off to get my speakers working.; Easiest way possible? Thanks
 

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Second image from beeblebrox's post is the connector you want to splice into. it's located on the passenger side just remove the trim that goes from the bottom of the door up to the glove box. single Philips screw. (C201) wires to tap in to there are

Left speaker- Pin 4 (Positive) DG & Pin 6 (negative) BR/RD
Right speaker- Pin 5 (Positive) VT & Pin 9 (negative) DB/RB

However after looking at the diagrams this will just feed into the OEM infinity amplifier. So I don't think this will work for you... but you can try what I'm suggesting.

Now keep in mind I didn't have the midline or premium system so I didn't have sail speakers or an OEM amp to bypass. So this is just a theory here...

if you run wires from your head unit or amp. run them up to the OEM amp. Unplug the amp and on it you want Connecter 1

Left speaker Pin 1 (positive) LG/VT & Pin 7 (negative) LG/BK
Right speaker Pin 2 (positive) LB/RD & Pin 8 LB/BK

Tap into these leave the connector unplugged and this should also solve the sails. As I said I don't have the midline or premium so I don't know about a crossover and the diagrams don't show one.
 

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But if i splice into the wire at the connector wont it still be amplified?
If you want to use all the stock wiring to splice into you can bypass the amp. It's in the right passenger kick location for the midline systems and in the trunk for the premiums. There are wiring diagrams on here or in the FSM that you can look up that tell you which wires are which. You just splice the ins and outs together right before the connector then it doens't go through the amp. There are no crossovers elsewhere in the factory systems, it's all inside the amp.
 

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But if i splice into the wire at the connector wont it still be amplified?
You can either physically remove the amp completely or leave it in place and disconnect the two connectors. Just one bolt to remove it. If you take it out you'll have more room to work with the wiring harness in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
After reading your post and looking at the picture I think I figures it out. But if I am splicing into it and going into an amp. That means the sails we also be powered by the amp correct?
Also will the connector 1 be at the bottom of the amp so it's easy to see from in the car. Disregard next paragraph..

I found this image in another form, So when looking up at the factory amp i see a bunch of separate connectors. Unplug all the C1's and splice into the colors you had mentioned? Sorry I'm usually good with wiring, i set up my whole other trep no problems, this factory amp is causing a brain cramp.
pic.JPG
 

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each connecter is shown as it's own connector.. (c1 is the output to the speakers) C2 is the inputs from the radio..

when you splice into C1 your by-passing the amp directly. that's why you have to leave C1 disconnected so that it doesn't backwards feed into the amp. As for the sails my diagram (FSM 2002) shows that the sails are separate...regardless this is an easy fix... just take off the housing where they are and unplug them.

what year is your trep.. also you may want to get in touch with Paintballdude. He lives just outside of the big nickel. He might be able to help you out directly. Can only do soo much on the net..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright I finally got in there and took a picture of what i see
I don't know which one of these is c1? I have 2 harness going into the amp, which one do i unplug and splice into? I'm hoping with a picture ill understand, sorry for not getting this right away
image.jpg
 

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Off subject, what the heck is "Big Nickel"?

BTW - I took the doors off and drilled and ran new wires thru the door connector. or you can spliced into existing factory wires.

Factory amp has crossover in it. Doors play midrange, sails play highs. You'll see separate wires from the amp in the FSM for each.
 

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C1=12 pins
C2=22 pins

Just disconnect both of them that way the amplifier will be completely out of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
C1=12 pins
C2=22 pins

Just disconnect both of them that way the amplifier will be completely out of the circuit.
Alright ill try disconnecting both of them and then splicing into the wires on it to each spaker. Will try this Sunday,
Thanks for all the help.
 
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