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My alarm goes off for no reason continously. Then it will stop for a week or two then start going off again every 5 to 10 minutes. This is the factory alarm for a 99ES with 3.2. Has anyone encountered this situration before? And if so how did you solve it...
 

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Personally i only had the stock alarm on my trep about 5 days after i bought the car and some asswipe tryed breaking in to it! And the crappy stock alarm didnt go off!! Speaking from personal experiance ditch the stock alarm and invest in a highend aftermarket system..
 

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Sounds like you might have a voltage drain from somewhere......
 

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Woober Goobers!
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The stock alarm doesn't have a motion/glass break sensor. It goes off when a door is physically opened or the trunk.
 

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Sound like your factory system is sensing a faulty door or trunk trigger..Just like VegasTrep said,ditch the factory system and go aftermarket if you can afford it..
 

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Sounds like we have very similar problems... but mine started last night at about 1 am (ugh).

Same as you, I have a 3.2L '99 ES.

I can rule out stray frequencies, because it's happened in 3 different locations, and I can rule out my remote's transmitter because in all 3 instances I was too far away for that. Thanks to this thread, I can rule out the idea of a faulty motion sensor.

Any other ideas? Today when I got home from work, I went around and opened and "forcefully closed" all the doors and the trunk... but would that help determine if it's a faulty door/trunk trigger?

I'd rather not go aftermarket quite yet, so I really need to figure out what's causing this.
 

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If the door/trunk sensor is bad slamming the doors won't help it's a loose/bad connection unless you get in and fix the broken wire or corroded contact etc it's still going to be bad and go off randomly. I have no idea if you could 'fix' it probably not something you could pop open and tinker with IF you could even figure out which one it was.

It is also possible that there is a problem with the bcm but I think it's more likely a door/trunk sensor. If you could see the dash with the system armed when it goes off you *might* be able to see if the door or trunk indicator came on.

Aftermarket would only help if you add on to the system, with the stock system I could smash your window, pop the hood, disconnect the battery then open any door to pull the radio etc. A glass sensor would stop that scenario and a shock sensor MIGHT stop that as well if the thief shook the car enough.
 

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I had the same exact problem with my 2000 ES. I found if you lock the door manually it won't go off. It's not a power problem. It's a signal problem. I have done every single test and nothing has came up. I almost rewired it lol.

Do a test, lock all the doors. When it goes off check and see if the driver side is still locked. I bet it will be unlocked. Best way to fix the problem is to get a new alarm with key less entry with code hopping.
 

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When you say "manually", do you mean using the door-lock switch on the door panel, or do you mean physically pushing the door-lock down?

Twice now it has gone off when I locked the doors using the switch on the door panel; after I get home from work I'll try the other method.

I forgot to check for that drivers side being unlocked afterwards though...

@TCPMeta: What do you mean by...
TCPMeta said:
It's not a power problem. It's a signal problem.
 

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This may not be what you want to hear but it's the recommended check procedure from my Body Diagnostics Procedures Manual. This is from tbe "Identifying Vehicle Theft Security System Problems".

For complaints about the Theft Alarm going off on it's own use the DRB and select "Theft Alarm" then "Monitor Display" and read the "Alarm Tripped By" status.

Verify the failure or customer's complaint and make sure the vehicle is experiencing the problem at this time.

Straight from the manual and unless like Windowpane said you can see a cluster indicator when the alarm goes off that a door or the trunk is open, I'm afraid you're going to have a difficult time tracking it down. The dealer will be able to read the recorded info and determine which door switch is causing the problem or the trunk switch. Not much help to you but I would bite the bullet and get the system read and repair the problem myself if it were me.
 
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