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Discussion Starter #1
This is from my other post.
21** O2 sensor
25** Open or shorted condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits
52** Rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally lean correction factor

Can the Oxygen sensor be causing all three codes? I know codes 21 and 52 are O2 related. But isn't code 25 because of air intake. I changed the filter but I am now wondering if I need to just reset the sensor or if I am getting a blockage.

Has anyone put in one of those newer Intake Air Coolers that can be rewashed? Supposedly allows for better air flow and mileage...

Let me know.
 

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No. The IAC is this:

(Picture stolen from EDF's howto on cleaning your IAC)
 

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yea.. an O2 CAN do that.

the computer adjusts the IAC based on how rich/lean the mix is.... and the RPM. if the sensor os shorted.. it might think the IAC is b0rked at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay hypnos, what is EDF's how to on cleaning your IAC and where can I find it?


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hypnos said:
No. The IAC is this:

(Picture stolen from EDF's howto on cleaning your IAC)
 

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I'm not sure if 1st gen has a o2 fuse or not.

Just replace your bad o2 sensor and see what happens.

If you are still getting the IAC code after you have replaced the o2 sensor, then the howto on cleaning it is on the 1st gen howto page.


BTW, when I said no, it was directed towards your air intake question.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess it is O2 changing time this weekend if I get the time (work 2 jobjs). Does it make a difference which upstream or do the left bank up first?

And thanks again for the help that all you are giving. Really appreciate it.
 

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It doesnt matter which one you do first. Just be careful around those exhuast pipes. Its best to change the sensors after the car has sat for a long time without runing. Those pipes get EXTREMELY hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I hear that. This would be a good time to get some asbesto gloves that go to the elbow.

Can this be changed from above or does below give me a better chance. I would think below. Autozone has the O2 for $34.99. A little anti-sieze compound, and the O2 tool and the job can be done for under $50 and the dealers want $125 or better to change one.

Of course, the salve for the burns that I will probably get might cost about $80...LOL (hope I didn't jinx myself).
 

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The ones under the cat, you want to get to from under the car. I've never looked to see where exactly the ones before the cat are.
 

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hypnos said:
It doesnt matter which one you do first. Just be careful around those exhuast pipes. Its best to change the sensors after the car has sat for a long time without runing. Those pipes get EXTREMELY hot.
Yea safety wise it would be nice to work on a cold exhaust, but if the o2 sensor is siezed in the port, run the car a bit so the metal can expand a little bit.
 

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also, make sure the wires/connectors aren't too close to (or touching) the exhaust. if you read about some problems i was having with the charging system... it was related to the O2 connector melting and grouding out on the exhaust. it was on the same circuit as the charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I believe that I can also see the one on the drivers side, right below/near the transmission dipstick. And I do see the other on the passenger side. Would the driver side location be correct?

I assume that would be the first one (driver side) to be replaced. If it doesn't correct and the O2 test okay, I can use it on the passenger side.
 

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yea.. the pre-cat o2 sensors are plainly visible... they are the only sensors on the exhaust manifold/pipes.

to get the downstream ones... you have to jack the car up a bit, (use jackstands or Ramps) and then slide under the car. they are on the exhaust pipes, right behind the tranny.
 

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oh.. and a suggestion.... to save a little cash: buy the cheapest O2 sensor you can. when I got mine.. there were 4 different prices:
Upstream (both)
Downstream (left)
Downstream(right)
Universal (any)

for me, the upstream was the cheapest, followd by the universal, then the two downstreams were the most expensive.

I decided to get the two upstreams, and 2 universals (to save some cash). well.. the gave me the wrong plugs with the upstream, (although the sensor itself was the same as the universal).... so I ended up cutting all the wires, using the factory orignal plugs... then I solderded the wires together, and used high-temp heat shrink tubing on them, putting the old O2 sensor wire protectors over it. if I would have bought all Upstream sensors, I would have saved quite a bit of money, and my car would still be functioning perfectly
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, I saw that. I am going to get the upstreams one at a time and if needed use them just like you did. The universal is a little bit more but unless the connection piece is bad, you can use what was left from the old ones. Good advice, thanks.
 
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