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Discussion Starter #1
have battery going dead with car off,have had it jumped and it starts up,Ihave checked my wires both grounds and positives btw I have ran the big-3 with 0ga wires from the alt straight to the battery same with ground straight to the neg on battery 0 ga so there`s not a chance for any broken cables or terminated ends.I did the Diode test on the Alt with all the cables off the alt. red lead to post and black lead to case it reads 1 or OL with the red lead on the case and the black lead on the post it reads 1269 millivolts my question is is this and indicator that my alternator diode(s) is bad what`s the range of voltage for my 300M 2002 chrysler?
 

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Your test shows that the diodes are not shorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did the Alternator test with battery with car and it is charging the battery at around 13.56 -13.61 vdc under full load(heat/ac, headlights and door open)
I also put my meter leads on the neg post of battery and on the detached neg cable with car off and it showed 12.78 vdc from battery(power cable was hooked up to complete the circuit,so after 5-6 minutes no parastic-drain....I got the big3 wiring installed and I don`t have the factory power wires hooked up just the big3 0 ga wires from alt to batt + and two other ground wires also 0 ga to bat - and from frame of car to motor and from frame of car to bat - so this eliminates fusable links being broken...where should I look next?
 

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Are you talking 1.3 ohm?
 

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Then the diode isn't shorted.
 

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You would probably have noticed this already if it were the case, but check that the brake lights aren't constantly or intermittently on, even with the ignition switch off. The brake light switch always has 12 volts from the battery, and it can get out of calibration to where it will turn on the brake lights with the brake pedal in its rest position. This has happened to a few people over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You would probably have noticed this already if it were the case, but check that the brake lights aren't constantly or intermittently on, even with the ignition switch off. The brake light switch always has 12 volts from the battery, and it can get out of calibration to where it will turn on the brake lights with the brake pedal in its rest position. This has happened to a few people over the years.
My brake lights would have been on if the switch was bad correct? I have not seen them on at anytime especially at night which I`m outside a lot at night,but you think I should still check switch anyway?
 

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Probably not it since you've not seen the brake lights on. But you could calibrate the switch anyway. Usually it gets out of calibration when someone inadvertently puts momentary backward pressure on the pedal - like maybe their foot catches on it or hits it when getting out of the car, or someone puts backward pressure on it while messing with stuff underneath the dash.

The length of the plunger of the switch is adjustable. What you do is remove the knee bolster (the dash panel below the steering column). With your head and hands under there, while pushing down on the brake pedal, pull out on the switch plunger - you will hear it click as it lengthens. Then s-l-o-w-l-y release the brake pedal so it returns to its rest position. As the pedal goes to rest position, it pushes the plunger in. the plunger bottoms out and the brake pedal shortens the plunger to exactly the right length. It's now calibrated. (It gets out of calibration by being forced too short if the pedal is pulled backwards past its rest position.)

Again, probably not your problem, but no harm in calibrating it.

The FSM says to remove the switch to lengthen it and then re-install it to let the pedal push the plunger to the correct length - but there's risk of damaging the switch or its bracket when you R&R it (it can be tricky reinstalling it back into the bracket). My method saves trouble and risk and gives the same adjustment results.

As far as finding what's discharging your battery, you can remove fuses and measure current thru the fuse holders with the meter set to measure current. Some of the fuses, like Fuse 19 (the IOD fuse), will show some current. If more than about 30mA, you may have a bad PCM and have to replace it - that has happened to people before. Otherwise, you'll have to measure current to individual loads to see if there is some other culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
great advice,
Probably not it since you've not seen the brake lights on. But you could calibrate the switch anyway. Usually it gets out of calibration when someone inadvertently puts momentary backward pressure on the pedal - like maybe their foot catches on it or hits it when getting out of the car, or someone puts backward pressure on it while messing with stuff underneath the dash.

The length of the plunger of the switch is adjustable. What you do is remove the knee bolster (the dash panel below the steering column). With your head and hands under there, while pushing down on the brake pedal, pull out on the switch plunger - you will hear it click as it lengthens. Then s-l-o-w-l-y release the brake pedal so it returns to its rest position. As the pedal goes to rest position, it pushes the plunger in. the plunger bottoms out and the brake pedal shortens the plunger to exactly the right length. It's now calibrated. (It gets out of calibration by being forced too short if the pedal is pulled backwards past its rest position.)

Again, probably not your problem, but no harm in calibrating it.

The FSM says to remove the switch to lengthen it and then re-install it to let the pedal push the plunger to the correct length - but there's risk of damaging the switch or its bracket when you R&R it (it can be tricky reinstalling it back into the bracket). My method saves trouble and risk and gives the same adjustment results.

As far as finding what's discharging your battery, you can remove fuses and measure current thru the fuse holders with the meter set to measure current. Some of the fuses, like Fuse 13 (the IOD fuse), will show some current. If more than about 30mA, you may have a bad PCM and have to replace it - that has happened to people before. Otherwise, you'll have to measure current to individual loads to see if there is some other culprit.
thanks for the info will do,but right now its burning up outside
 

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I said that the IOD fuse was Fuse 13 in my previous post. That was incorrect. It is Fuse 19. (I edited that post to correct that.)

Also - have you added aftermarket amps or subwoofers or rewired the stock audio? Make sure you have the amp or subwoofer power wired up right so that it slaves off the radio and is not on all the time, draining your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I said that the IOD fuse was Fuse 13 in my previous post. That was incorrect. It is Fuse 19. (I edited that post to correct that.)

Also - have you added aftermarket amps or subwoofers or rewired the stock audio? Make sure you have the amp or subwoofer power wired up right so that it slaves off the radio and is not on all the time, draining your battery.
yes I have taken out the factory amp and there`s nothing tied into any wires ,I straight wired up my amp to battery with a 300Amp fuse grounded in trunk panel which I scraped for good contact,head unit is wired straight to battery also and fused with a 10 amp fused,I`m not using any factory audio wiring everything has been taped off.I do have a problem with my trunk -light it don`t work it used to about 3 weeks ago,bulb is good I plugged it into a door light socket and it worked,so i`m quiet sure there is something with the wiring will have to trace it down to where it stops upfront by fuse box it could be shorted out somewhere along the line
 

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Does the amp have an internal or external relay or circuit by which it turns itself on and off automatically depending on if it gets a signal from the head unit or by some other switched power-on signal controlled by the ignition switch?

Similarly, what turns the head unit on and off?

IOW, are head unit and amp constant on? If so, that would likely be the cause of battery drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does the amp have an internal or external relay or circuit by which it turns itself on and off automatically depending on if it gets a signal from the head unit or by some other switched power-on signal controlled by the ignition switch?

Similarly, what turns the head unit on and off?

IOW, are head unit and amp constant on? If so, that would likely be the cause of battery drain.
Amp is a Kicker amp,HU is an Alpine ,amp is switched on and off by HU via switched small blue power wire similar to a power antenna wire.....HU is not switched on and off by the ign.key
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Amp is a Kicker amp,HU is an Alpine ,amp is switched on and off by HU via switched small blue power wire similar to a power antenna wire.....HU is not switched on and off by the ign.key
The red(on/off)wire is connected to the yellow memory wire which is connected to the + post of car battery,, I turn my HU on and off by the HU power button
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well took car into shop,and mechanic tested both the battery and alternator ,alternator was only putting out 13.4 v,which over a couple days would cause battery to weaken or drain,due to being not being fully charged only 80% charged by alternator,in process of getting a new alternator
 

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3.4 volts at what engine rpm, and at what ambient temperature? The other day, you were getting 3.6 volts (conditions not specified).

I hope that fixes it, but the spec. at summer temperatures is 3.5 volts, and that would be at 2200 engine rpm or higher - a bit less at idle. Not sure where your 80% figure comes from. I'm skeptical, but of course we don't have all the specifics of how it was measured and under what conditions. There's also the question of how many miles it get's driven over a period of days, i.e., does it get driven enough to makeup for the starting drain plus normal ignition off drain.

With the new alternator, it would be interesting to know the charging voltage at the same rpm and at similar ambient temperature as he measure it at before.
 
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