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Discussion Starter #1
Well I got it on mine, 59k. I was cruising at 65 on the freeway yesterday when it came on. For those of you who may wonder, no it doesn't slam into 2nd gear until you decel to about 40 mph. I pulled over, stopped the car, did the key dance to check the code, then drove off. Trans shifted like normal again but the MIL stayed on.

So I get home and pull all the TCM and PCM relays and fuses - light goes off. This morning, no problems getting to work. Coming home, same deal... comes on at about 60 mph. I pull over, stop the car at the feeder road traffic light, start it back up... everything is fine again.

Trans shifts smoothly in all gears, all speeds, etc. Torque converter operates smooth and breaks loose when it needs to. Speedometer works fine but I noticed a few months ago when it was colder it used to stick a little around 15 mph and then shoot up. Never had any other issues.

Right now I just pulled the input sensor and found a few metal shavings on the end. I cleaned it off but there weren't very many - is there really any benefit to this? This part looks like a simple electromagnet and it sticks to my fridge.

Trans fluid & filter was replaced at 30k and I was just planning to do it soon at 60k.

Any opinions? Do you think it's this sensor? I mean this is shifting as smooth as when I bought it new and came as a surprise.

Going outside now to reinstall and check the output sensor.


Thanks,
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the output sensor had a big glob of metal shavings on the end. So they're both clean and back in. Easy 45 minute job. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

There's an extended warranty to 70k miles, with a $100 deductible. This is still more expensive than if I replace the sensors myself. Trying to find someone with a TCM code reader may be impossible though. Dunno if I can get away with spending $50 or will have to pay $100. And my wife and I work a fairly long distance away from our house so it's hard to give up the cars for more than a weekend. That's why I'm asking here... I might be able to save money and time overall.
 

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The trans itself is probably OK

I think your prob is electrical or elecromechanical, ie. solenoid.

If it shifts OK after resetting the TCM, then the tranny mechanical parts are probably fine. Cleaning the sensor may fix the problem, but if it comes back, you may have a bad sensor or a clogged or leaking solenoid pack.

Check the connections at the sensors too.
 

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hardwareguy said:
I think your prob is electrical or elecromechanical, ie. solenoid.

If it shifts OK after resetting the TCM, then the tranny mechanical parts are probably fine. Cleaning the sensor may fix the problem, but if it comes back, you may have a bad sensor or a clogged or leaking solenoid pack.

Check the connections at the sensors too.

I would normally agree, but I just went through the exact same scenario @58,000 mi. A snap ring had come loose in the trans. and basically gutted the entire trans. I had a 0700 code and trans was operating normally so I took it to autozone to pull the trans. codes-got a 0740 for tcc lockup problems(lockup was working perfectly). Figured I'd call the dealer Monday to get it in, never made it that far. Hopefully your problem is just the sensors but I would suggest getting it checked out to possibly save you the hassle of needing a new trans.
 

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I bought a pair of Mopar sensors a few weeks back. The price was $22 each plus tax.

Sensors from napaonline.com are about $15- each.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
AZ and O'reilly don't carry the sensors; Advance is about $25 each. Thanks for the link - I'll keep it in mind.

I came to work this morning, everything acted fine. It's almost a 30 mile highway drive. Going home we'll see if it acts up again. Connections were nice & tight. We'll see if clean sensors and reinstall worked. I had an emissions code pop up a few months ago and a cleaning was all that was needed so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Do you know if Autozone can pull the trans code? This '03 I guess has the TCM built into the PCM. Only P 0700 shows up on the dash.

If it acts up again, I might just drop it off at the dealer Friday afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well it worked today - no MIL coming home. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.

Last time the MIL came on it was an emissions code for EVAP... all I did was disconnect all lines related to the problem, cleaned it up, reinstalled... has worked for over 3k miles now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well this morning, same problem. It's been the same way 3 times now. Cruising for awhile at 65 it comes on... stays in limp mode when you get under 40. Pull over, shut off, turn back on, works fine, but MIL stays on, P0700. Looks like I'm going to try Autozone first then the dealer. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I got the codes read... P1776 is in there as well. Looks like my solenoids are junk.

First mechanical problem with this car! I hope it doesn't fall apart on me now. It's gone almost 60k... would like for it to go another 60k before I get my 300.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Can someone please tell me where exactly this is located? I know crombie said "Here's a pic of the sensors if you are lying down and your feet are towards the front of the car" but I need to clarify where exactly I'm lying down and looking.


 

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evo77 said:
Can someone please tell me where exactly this is located? I know crombie said "Here's a pic of the sensors if you are lying down and your feet are towards the front of the car" but I need to clarify where exactly I'm lying down and looking.



:fun_83:
 

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That long stub shaft is connected to a halfshaft that runs to the drivers side front wheel. So basically you're looking at the drivers side of the transaxle..right about where the front wheel well ends looking towards the center of the car.
 

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P0700=EATX controller DTC present. All manuals will tell you to scan for the EATX Diagnostic Trouble Code(s). You can't get these codes from the key dance. They have to be read by a code scanner or DRB. Get the underlying codes scanned.
 
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