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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
99 ES 3.2 with 224,000 mile now. Hoping to make until April with this car. Started noticing a tick that usually mostly go away once warm was persistence last night even when the car was fully at Temp. I did try the seafoam to the oil (1oz per Qt as instructed) Didn't seem to make any difference. As a side note my oil light has been slowly coming on at low idle, then went to a flicker and now fully on all the time. I bought a sensor and will check the oil pressure soon.

I spent many hours last night looking at the archives.

This is the best video I found of fixing a collapsed lifter.3.2 Rocker Assembly
I have not been able to find a Rocker assemblies yet only individual rockers.
RockAuto has a small number of the lifters Lifters
Ebay appears to sell a set of them Ebay Lifters
I saw the TSB. I'm confused why I would pay 4 times more for Rocker Swivel pad when I could get all the lifters.

From the video he said changing out the lifters in the rockers was not worth it and to buy the whole Assembly. Anyone have a source for the assembly or if you changed out the lifters from the rockers, how was your experience?
 

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ebay Chrysler rocker assemblies - search "Chrysler (04892293AC, 4892293AC)" - only get new, and verify that they are the OEM part by that part number to ensure they have the updated pivot design. (hint: always search Chrysler parts with and without a leading zero - if you only search with leading zero or without leading zero, you will miss some hits)

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Peva.

Been giving this more thought.

I always like to get parts before starting a job when possible. From watching what I could find on youtube I don't know if the issue is with the lifters or the roller that makes contact with the cam. The smart way to go would be just getting both assemblies and being done with it but man $600+ is chunk of money I could be spending on another vehicle.

I'm thinking I need to verify the oil pressure first
 

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That is a chunk of money.

According to post no. 18 here: 3.5 HO lifters
the going price was about $500 the pair 5 years ago on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is a chunk of change.

I guess for order of execution
1. plan to change oil anyway so pull sensor and attach gauge and check oil pressure.
2. I'm going to try the Rosoline with Rotella 5w-40. I'm not too hopfull with that
3. Tear into top and inspect the damage. The car may be going to the junkyard if the cam(s) are bad.
4. Order parts and wait.

Tom Petty was right the waiting is the hardest part.

Its -11F today. No tick when I first fire it up. LOL However the car groans so much on a cold day like this maybe I just can't hear it over the groan.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well crap. I have no oil pressure at all. 0 zero nothing. First time I have used this gauge since I bought it. Checked it with compressed air just to be sure and even put on the new oil pressure sending unit for a sanity check since I had it anyway. Any chance I'm missing something here. clogged oil filter or something? I think it may be off to the junk yard it goes. Anyone need a parts car with newer tires?
 

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My '98 3.2 did that for a couple of days, but corrected itself. (I didn't measure the oil pressure, but suspect it was zero as the entire valve train was clattering like crazy and the oil light was on.)

Before it corrected itself, I drove it a short distance to get home, and as a last ditch effort, changed the oil with some extra Marvel Mystery Oil. And drove it some more, and it finally cleared up, then it acted as if nothing had happened.

The only explanation I could come up with to explain everything was that the oil pressure regulator stuck open from a piece of grit or something, then freed itself. I never trusted that engine after that, though it ran fine for 3 or 4 years. Then the timing belt broke 500 miles before it was due for replacement. That was the final straw - I scrapped it (transferred my 2.7 into that body, and scrapped the 3.2 engine and the other body).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
((((FIXED))))

Well I don't really get it at all but the issue is now fixed. I decided as a last ditch hail Mary effort I would cut open the oil filter to see if it was clogged or had metal shaving in it. I already had oil/filter and a quart of Rislone. When I cut open the WIXs filter it looked very clean to me.

Since I was planning the next trip was going to be to the junk yard I decided to put the new filter on. I never put them on dry so I filled the filter with the Rislone and put it back together. So now i have the new sending unit on and new filter on. Figured I would just keep the old oil in it.

Anyway I fired it up and what do you know, a late Christmas Miracle! The oil light never came on and the clattering valve train was gone.

So was the filter blocked or possibly defective? I don't know. Does the oil feed into the center of the filter first? If so, maybe I need to cut the paper element apart. I took for a drive and runs perfectly now. Went and for a 60 mile drive to visit my brother and let it idle for a 1.5 hours in his driveway since it -5*F today. No clatter at all now. Thanks to the forum for being my support group:)
 

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To answer your question about direction of flow thru the earl filter, it enters thru the outside ring, goes thru the filtering media, and back out thru the threaded center pipe. You'll see the rubber (typically nitrile/buna-N in the cheapest ($4-$6) model, silicone rubber in mid-and upper-grade ($7+) filter models) anti-backflow disc right where the oil enters - acts like a check valve. Forward flow pushes the disc inward - away from the filter base - for normal flow, and it relaxes back against the base of the filter in the absence of forward pressure/flow to keep oil from draining back into the pan when engine is off (to keep the upper-engine galleys full of oil) when the valve completely closes off properly (silicone rubber is softer and more pliable and is better at that than buna-N rubber).
 
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Though we can't be sure it was from the same cause, it sure sounds like your engine did just like mine with the problem "magically" going away as quickly as it came. Weird.

Who knows if the messing around that you and I did - me with changing the oil and filter twice in rapid succession and putting extra MMO in, and you with changing the filter and using Rislone, had any effect. Perhaps they both fixed themselves because of or in spite of our desperate efforts to "do something!" to "fix" the problem. And we can only speculate on the mechanism of temporary failure. Strangely, it never occurred in mine again, maybe yours will be the same.
 
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