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i have a 97 es with 90,000 mi on it.
if i let the car sit for a day or two, it idles poorly when i go to start it up. i mean, bad enough where if i aint on the gas it'll stall. it'll teeter at around 3-5k rpm until hot, then all is back to normal...idle between 5-8k, no shudder, instant response, then the next morning...no problem. it is only when i leave the car sit for a day or two this happens...what and why?
 

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Weird... Have you cleaned out the Throttle body? You should have an Idel Air Control Motor(IAC), its a little `plunger` that controls the amount of air into the motor at Idle time.. I wish I could be more accurate, but I am 3.3 guy :) Hope some of this helps.
 

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I had the problem of sometimes when I start the car it shudders a bit, only for like 5 seconds, then it goes away, never had the car stall on me. ( had this problem with my old 94 3.5 and 99 3.2 )
 

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Originally posted by Valhalla 213:
i have a 97 es with 90,000 mi on it.
if i let the car sit for a day or two, it idles poorly when i go to start it up. i mean, bad enough where if i aint on the gas it'll stall. it'll teeter at around 3-5k rpm until hot, then all is back to normal...idle between 5-8k, no shudder, instant response, then the next morning...no problem. it is only when i leave the car sit for a day or two this happens...what and why?

I have the same exact problem. If I let off the gas it will die. I only have this problem when there is a lot of moisture in the air. It was suggested that there may be moisture getting into the crankshaft sensor. Tell you what, you take your car to the dealer, have them diagnose and solve the problem, and let me know what they say. I'll let you do that.
:D :D I've had the throttle bodies cleaned. I've replaced plug wires. There are no codes that come up. HELP!
 

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Same prob here too, except it happens on hot days mostly, I'll drive it around for a bit, park it, come back to it within 30 or less minutes and it will want to die on me, just gotta keep the rpms above 1 grand and it'll do fine once it gets going. Seems to fix it self. My dad seems to think that it needs new infectors for it. We'll just have to see.
 

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"If I let off the gas it will die. I only have this problem when there is a lot of moisture in the air. It was suggested that there may be moisture getting into the crankshaft sensor."

Just for the sake of knowing what kind of wires did you use. Also at night in a dark area open the hood and look for arcing from the wires or for that matter anywhere around the engine compartment. If you are getting arcing then the wires are getting wet and not firing right. Also I have hearsd that it is best to use a good plug wire. Either oe. or at least a lifetime warranty wire./ Especially on wierd ones like ours. This way if they do have problems you can get them replaced without another $100.

[ September 03, 2001: Message edited by: jnutz ]
 

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Yeah, I was told to look for arcing as well. When I still had my stock wires in, I went out at night and misted water on the wires, nothing came up. It was time to change them so I put Jacobs Electronics 8.5mm wires on. Didn't solve the problem but I like the wires. I think I am going to do the crankshaft sensor, I was told it is getting moisture in it.
 

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has anyone checked the 02 sensors? they dont always read when going over the codes. an easy way to tell if it is them is when the car is running crapy just unplug the connector for he sensors. what will happen is the computer will make the car run rich. if the car runs better then replace the sensor that you unpluged. if that doesnt do it then replace the t.p.s., thottle position sensor. that should solve the problem.
 

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Hey man, if that does not work, get your injectors cleaned. And if that does not work, replace your injectors. This shoild be the last step and probally an expensive one. I have my car in the shop RIGHT NOW and I was told that another injector is bad. This is the 2nd one in 6 months. The car idles so bad that the damm car shakes. Also I noticed a lack in power on the freeway. The first time it ran me $210 from the injector/labor. This time ???? :mad: :mad:
 

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I think I solved my similar problem. You should at least try this because it is free. Just remove you camshaft sensor (the one in the front right on top of the motor) and remove all the metal particles and crap off of the bottom of it. I believe it does have a magnet in it and it attracts metal particles. Mine was full of crap, I removed the stuff and now my car has not done that weird cold idle since.
 

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thanks for the tip mopar4u! ill go ahead and try that, hopefully itll work out fine...additionally, my car idles a little rough all the time...nothing serious where it'll stall or anything (cept in the cold), but...alright, example: ill sit at a light, it will idle just under 1000...but it will reverberate up and down between 800-900 rpm...and, if im driving down the highway, i let off the gas, the rpm needle will bounce a little in 100 rpm increments, up and down.
anyone having similar probs with this too??? (wait thats a dumb question...we all have the same damn problem...we all drive intrepids!!!! :D hahahhaaa j/k j/k
 

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mine does that, and it always has, so i don't worry about it. during the summer it idles at about 600rpms but sometimes dips down to about 500 if the a/c is blowing hard. again, i don't think anything of it cuz it's always done it.
 

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every once in a while mine idles kinda wierd too. it does the little thing where the tach needle bounces around a little bit, but it always fixes itself after i get going and wont do it again for like a month....damn these cursed intrepids ;)
 
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