DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2004 Concorde's windows, radio, temp controls all stopped working and I got all 3 dash lights - air bag, ABS & Brake.

* HOWEVER ** All was fine again once I restarted the car!

41471
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Only thing my limited googling could point me to was a possible defective ignition switch and or its terminals/wiring. In other cases the ignition switch allowed too much movement forward and the key had to be turned back slightly to resume normal operation. In any case hope it helps ya

“Most commonly this is caused by a defective ignition switch, and usually includes two burned terminals in the connector. Usually you will see the black terminals in the switch and the melted part of the plug when those parts are inspected. If you find that, it is critical that those two terminals in the connector be replaced along with replacing the switch. If either part of the repair is not done, the blackened parts will cause high resistance which translates into heat, and the new part will be damaged again.

This happens most often to owners who use the heater fan on the highest speeds often, and those who switch the ignition switch on and off when the heater fan is set to those higher speeds. The high current drawn by the fan motor heats up the ignition switch contacts, and there is excessive arcing in the ignition switch when it is turned on and off under load, meaning the fan motor is running on "high".

On most models, the radio is also on the same circuit as the heater fan and power windows, so if that does not work, it further points to the ignition switch. In rare instances two mating terminals in a connector under the steering column can become overheated and cause this same problem. This can start out as an intermittent problem but it will not be long before it becomes permanent.”

From Heater and Power Windows Stopped Working and ABS Light Stays On

Though the car in question was a ‘94 LHS but I seen Concorde cases when googling
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks very much. I was starting to think I was alone on here. Ok - so I just watched some youtubes - and changing that lock cylinder could not be easier - however I have no idea how to find and fix the "two burned terminals in the connector" that the link talks about. Anyone ever have this problem or have further advice. Looks pretty sealed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Ok - i see - I really need to change the ignition switch - my ignition cylinder might be fine. Anyone know if just any of these switches will still work for me - even though my 04 Concorde has the immobilizer chip?

I found a youtube of a guy with a PT Cruiser changing his...


41472
41473
41474
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
My reading seems to indicate that the SKIM is a separate module independent from the ignition switch and cylinder and that it communicates to the transponder key wirelessly via the PCM. One would think that the ignition switch itself is used to read the transponder key so I’m unsure if switching the part will cause disablement that way but I’m unable to find more
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks again! I went for it and ordered one. It is shipping from NJ and is the Standard brand that might be OEM. It was only $20 with free shipping and should be here in a few days. Fingers crossed - it looks easy! Although if my conector is melted or those terminals in the connector won't just clean up... I might be in for more work... Is there something I should buy to fix that connector? Thanks again.

41475
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone know where I can get a new pigtail? Or even the part number. I would like to have a new connector and wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
The video posted is for removing switch from a PT Cruiser, which is not a difficult as removal from a Concorde, especially due the 2 bolts on the multi-function switch that are a different type and location.

I did the change out of switch and cylinder on my Intrepid last month because it was the cause of a battery drain since the key could be removed in 2 positions instead of one, and the procedure the same as a Concorde.

Here's how to replace the switch:
Disconnect neg battery cable
Remove screw for tilt bar on steering wheel
Remove 2 screws underneath shroud on steering column / remove shroud
Disconnect PIN connector to SKIM
Remove one bolt on side and one bolt on top of multi-function switch using ether E2 or E4 torx socket
Remove PIN connector to ignition switch using flat head screwdriver
Remove bottom bolt of ignition switch
Lift up multi-function switch to access the top bolt of the ignition switch and remove the bolt. (no need to remove the PIN connector on the multi-function switch for this step)
Verify part# on switch you purchased same as one on car
Connect ignition switch (you may need to turn key to get male end of cylinder to line up with female end of ignition switch)
Connect SKIM
Connect neg battery cable
Start car to verify working.
Reassemble in reverse order
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks! I did have a dead battery after the heavy snow last month. I just thought I failed to run it often enough - we use our Jeep in the snow but the Concorde daily in good weather. Maybe it has a similar problem to yours. I had a T15 and a T30 but had a hard time loosening the screws under the steering column - even tried T20 & T25.... I ran out of time but will try tomorrow.

Thanks for all the info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
I don't remember sizes for screws on shroud, but if you don't have right size, here's inexpensive set from harbor freight (need 1/4" socket to attach):


Using a telescoping mirror helps to see what you're doing while removing them.

Also, here's set of e-torx sockets from harbor freight:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Oh - they are the security type with a hole in the center. No wonder I failed.

BTW - Which caused the key to come out in the wrong position - was it the switch or was it the lock cylinder? Thanks!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,347 Posts
Oh - they are the security type with a hole in the center. No wonder I failed.

BTW - Which caused the key to come out in the wrong position - was it the switch or was it the lock cylinder? Thanks!!
No - they are regular torx. Sometimes hard to hit the hole, and of course need the right size torx bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks - I will try again. Embarrassing - not off to a good start. One screw still turns but will not come out - the other one is missing - but I got the tilt handle off without a problem.

I wonder if it is the switch & connector - or just the lock cylinder causing this... will find out.
Thanks again. Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok - I got it apart - took the connector out - it looks very good - it is 9 wires used on a 10 wire connector - the switch contacts also look good --
(please see photos below). Also the key will not come out in any other position except as it should - there is a little play but that might be normal - (please see video link below).
After a bunch of trials I can not duplicate what happened - however I have the new switch coming so I will have that ready to change if this ever happens again - and I am sure it will. Thanks!!

41497
41498
41499
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks! Hey does my key cylinder look fine to you? It is in the video clip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Oh - they are the security type with a hole in the center. No wonder I failed.

BTW - Which caused the key to come out in the wrong position - was it the switch or was it the lock cylinder? Thanks!!
I was able to use either type to get the screws out.

There is play in my lock cylinder like yours, so don't replace it...otherwise you'll have expense of the cylinder and rekeying it.

Other than the symptom of the battery draining, the oil and odometer light would stay on when key removed in 1st of 2 positions on the old cylinder.

Old cylinder was the problem but with the replacement sometimes key would not turn to the position to remove it. Problem due to the piece depressed at back of shifter knob would not come out fully when moved to park...replaced knob and fixed it.

Are your dash lights working now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for posting. Everything now works as it should. No dash light issues & no dead battery. I do think my one time having to jump start it was a result of the snow - city street sweeping doesn't happen when any snow is present. I can't even get it to repeat the issue when I try jiggling the key or putting it into and out of park etc...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Railoffroader2

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Just curios. I’m wondering if you keep lots of keys hanging on while your key is in the ignition? I’ve heard that this causes problems also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just curios. I’m wondering if you keep lots of keys hanging on while your key is in the ignition? I’ve heard that this causes problems also.
No, I don't have extra keys - I had heard that too and a few years ago I got these. I have a lot of keys.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top