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Discussion Starter #1
Ok... i am hitting a car audio shop this weekend. I want to go in there with some speakers and subs and amps in mind.

I need recommendations for subs, 6x9 speakers, and 6.5 door speakers for my 2nd gen. I don't want the salesguy to recommend some crap overpriced speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I really don't want to spend more than $400-$500 for the entire system. I know it isnt much, but I don't want to do a complete overhaul.

I also forgot to mention that i do *not* want to replace my factory head unit.

Thanks
 

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Well first youre going to need wire and then a amp a box and the the subs. youre probably going to look at 1,000 if youre going to go to a installer. but you could find some good things on ebay.

but the things is i got all my stuff from sound advice which is great. I get 1 year upgrade so if i see a sub thats better priced at maybe 200 and i paid 140 for my recent subs then i pay just the diffrence. Plus ive blown so much speakers that they replace them for free life time.

So there is thing to think about when you try to install youre self and have authorized dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i cannot install the stuff myself. I would need someone to do it. If I get it from a dealer, I can try to get a deal and work out some cheap labor. I also want tints and an alarm so I can maybe get some sort of package deal.

If I buy the stuff online, I will still need someone to install it. How much do dealers normally charge for an installation of a sub and an amp?
 

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It's still usually cheaper to buy the stuff online and to pay a dealer to install it. Of course, like you said, you might be able to make a deal with the dealer. If I were you I would see what the dealers can do, and than look around online.

I had a dealer install my amp & sub. The TOTAL price came to around $100. But that not only included the labor, but the parts as well. The parts that were required were the wiring kit and an LOC (Line Output Converter). I needed an LOC because I had my sub/amp hooked up to the factory head unit. It looks like you'll be needing one of these as well. Labor alone typically costs around $50 (give or take depending on the dealer).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well i can live with $50-100 for labor to put in a sub and an amp.

What about actual part recommendations. What are the best 6x9 speakers I can get, the best 6.5 door speakers? Joekd recommended a Bazooka tube. Would dual bazooka tubes do the job?

I have a bullshit QLS amplifier with a built on crossover that does 270W RMS in bridged mode. I know it isnt a name brand amp. If i am running just subs through it, do you think I would hear a huge sound difference compared to using a Rockford Fosgate or some other real well known amp?
 

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$100 is exactly what I paid for the install of sub/amp with parts and labor. I would HIGHLY recommend letting a shop do the labor unless you are very good with car audio yourself. Nothing worse than spending big bucks on a system adn getting engine noise through it or even worse no sound at all. I did a little shopping in my area of CT and it seems all the shops charge about the same so I asked around and chose the one with the best reputation.

I personally stay away from the big supertore chains(best buy, circuit city) and stick to the local car audio dealers, it is the same product but the installers have more pride in their work and will not hesitate to make free repairs if needed down the road.

As was already said, what you want to end up with is the biggest decision maker, are you like me and just want to "fill in" the voids left by your factory audio or do you want a "homeboy" bass system that can shake your car off it's tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I definitely want to go with a subwoofer setup. Probably dual subs since I already have a half-ass amp.

It might also depend if I sell a few of my mixed CD box sets that I have on another thread here. If I can sell a few, ill offset the price of my audio system, and maybe invest more into it. :)

Definitely want the subs though. I want some decent bass to jam my CDs to. Nothing too major. I also will consider possibly replacing the 6x9s and the 6.5 speakers and run those four from maybe a second amp. Is this possible?

How bout speaker recommendations? Someone said Infinity Kappa 6x9 speakers were nice. What about JL audio?
 

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If your amp works, I would use that. I'm using a Sony amp which isn't the best, but I already had it so I figured I would use it. I'm rather surprised that it's performing this well.

You said the amp you have puts out 270RMSx1. I don't think any Bazooka tube could handle that amount of power. But I could be wrong. :)

I find that Rockford Fosgate is way to over priced. If you like grilling, you could use the RF amp!! In other words, they tend to get really hot. :)

As far as brands for the mids and highs, Infinity, MB Quart, Focal (oh wait, you have a budget :) ), Diamond, Blaupunkt, damn brain freeze!

For subs, JBL, Audiomobile, Infinity, Orion, Audiobahn, JL, Pioneer, to name some.

:)
 

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I would recommend maybe going with one sub. I only have a single JBL GTO 12" being pushed with 200RMS and she really pounds. With one sub, you save trunk space, plus you save money. Not only by only having to buy one sub, but you will buy a smaller box, and the biggy is you can buy a smaller two channel amp and bridge it!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes.... the amp on the front says 680W total power. But obviously i am a music nut, so we all know to go by the RMS rating. :)

Im pretty positive it was somewhere in the 250-270W range RMS. And that was rated at 8ohms (I checked the 8ohm setting cause at the time, i was using it to power my 8ohm DJ speaker). The 4ohm setting is probably even higher. It also has a volume knob on the amp so i can cut the power if i need to.

Speaking of my DJ speaker, you should have heard how loud this amp cranked the DJ speaker i had in my trunk. Lets just say the speaker i had in there was an EV sx200. It does 300W RMS, and *1200* ****ing peak. Ive done the really LARGE block parties with two of those. Hahahaha but anyways im not going to be using my DJ speaker. Just thought I would add that in. :)


Do you guys have any specific models that I can look up and get price comparisons on?
 

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OK...here's my .02 worth. Sure you can get stuff cheap on the internet, but do you really know who your giving your money. I am a manufacturer's rep for many 12V audio and security companies, and I hear about people who get screwed on the internet everyday.
Now, about your system. The Intrepid is an awesome car to work with. You have 6.5" openings in the door which is perfect for just about any component set (I'm using the Diamond Audio M561). The rears are a 6x9, I made a panel that holds another set of M561's in the 6x9's location. So far, no holes cut and no speakers are visible. Note that the rear speakers must fire through the rear deck, which causes a lot of sound quality degredation. I will cut into the rear deck and mount them in there in the future. Oh, yeah...I used the factory CD player! As for the subs, I am using (3)Diamond Audio MacDaddy 10's (Hence the license plate:) The box is firing right into the rear seat....IT SOUNDS AWESOME! The real key to doing this right is the PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION!!! It is completely possible to hook up a high performance amplifier to your factory deck, however, if it's not done right, it will sound like a$$ (engine whine, static, lousy sound quality, etc.) I am using a Rockford Fosgate Punch 800a4 for my front and rear speakers. This amp is perfect because it has high level inputs so you can just run your speaker wires from the factory sysytem into it. I used the pass through output from that amp to run to a Rockford Fosgate Power 1100a2 for the subs.
I know this is a little more than you are looking to do, but it can be done with less expensive products, even from the same high quality manufacturers that made my stuff.
I can't stress enough how important the installation is though. The speakers in the doors you can probably do yourself, the hardest part is making a plate to mount the tweeter in the factory location. The rear speakers carry the same challenges, but you can still accomplish this very easy. My sub box was custom made to the woofers' EXACT specification. NOTE: You can buy the best products in the world, but if they're not used or installed as they were intended, they won't perform to their capabilities. The construction of the sub box and the installation of the amplifier(s) I would have professionally installed.
Sorry that this was a bit long winded, but this what I do.....
I have of couple of pics of the trunk install, I just don't quite know how to post them here. Drop me an email if you're interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Email me pics to [email protected] I would really like to see this install.

My bullshit QLS amp I have has a hi input. I know what you are talking about. When I had this put in my old civic... i got a LOT of engine whine and feedback. I take it that was a shotty installation? Well I am definitely not going to that place again. Hehehehe. A good installation should produce no noise right?
 

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Originally posted by DjPiLL:
A good installation should produce no noise right?
Correct! :)

McDaddy hit it on the nose. Installation is EXTREMELY important! Althought I am perfectly able to install most things (and do it well) I had my sub/amp installed professionally because I didn't have the time to do it myself (you don't usually get good quality on rush projects).
 

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Amp: Profile B200
Not the best, hardly the worst. Bridged 150X1 RMS with a bridged max output of 300W

Cost: $69.95 at Circuit City

Sub: Infinity Reference 1020W 10"
Its Infinity, and it sounds awesome.

Cost: $79.95 at Audio King (Ultimate Electronics)

Box: Q Logic singe 10" sealed
Mass produced box, matches trunk carpet and takes up almost no room.

Cost: $59.95 at Best Buy

Installation ran me about $200 because I bought all Monster wiring. (Amp kit and LOC) but it was well worth it. I defy anyone to show me a better sounding single woofer setup.

Total: About $410
 
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