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Discussion Starter #1
just curious whats typical usual life span of the auto overdrive trannies in these cars, the 3.3L ones if it matters


just so i can learn any more info before making up my mind whether to buy a tranny for the car or not, and if so what mileage of one to get,

are these trannies known for not making it very far past the 100k mile mark, as are so many others such as GM, and other chrysler ones?

yes ?


thanks
 

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most go 130 - 190

some make 200.

make sure you flush trans every 30,000 and diff 20
 

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From experience of our family Intrepids:

Dads 1993 ES: 140,XXX when traded in for a Jeep, original trans

My old 1994 base: trans replaced under factory warranty (under 70K, factory defect)

1996 Parts car: 141K original trans.

My current 1995 base: 101,500 miles, original trans. A few problems popping up. replaced speed sensors, ATF 4, TCM software, added an external cooler. Shifting is kind of sloppy. ocassioal bumpshift
 

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I've got 145,000 Miles on my trans. No problems.
 

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I have over 180K, nothing wrong at all, doesn't even bump
 

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Sensors (input and output) at about 100k miles.

Fluid flush, refill, filter, pan drop, etc, every 30k miles or so.

Diffy fluid at 100k miles.

Keep an eye on your CV joints and hubs/bearings after 100k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Apcsox said:
I have over 180K, nothing wrong at all, doesn't even bump
nice :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
[QUOTE='98-ESer]Sensors (input and output) at about 100k miles.

Fluid flush, refill, filter, pan drop, etc, every 30k miles or so.

Diffy fluid at 100k miles.

Keep an eye on your CV joints and hubs/bearings after 100k miles.[/QUOTE]


interesting, tell me about these sensors where are they located and how did you find out they were bad what were the symptoms ?

Cv joints and such yeah thats typical stuff

how much are the shafts for these cars at stores like AZ and oreilly and napa ?

this will be another factor in determing whether to keep the car or not

already have found out so far that the p/s pumps like to go out and starters too, on these cars


if i was to save myself the time and trouble and instead just part it then what all is worth saving that ppl commonly look for?

3.3L engine?
any of the body parts?



thanks
 

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You'll get some engine codes and 'limp mode' (stuck in 2nd gear) when the output and/or input sensors go out. The sensors are $20 items, it might make sense to buy a set just in case (the input and output sensors are different PNs). You'll need a deep 1' (25mm) socket to change them.

Look in the service manual for location.
 

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Whoa don't start getting rid of your car now when it doesn't have any problems the 3.3 is a reliable engine that will last you for a long time. Read a little bit more of the site, it is really not that expensive to fix stuff for these cars and if everything is fine on your car keep it just do normal maint. items to it and always use ATF-4 for transmission flushes.
 

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once again, over 180K, starter is fine, and the bearings are jsut starting to go on the PS pump, but that's becasue there's a problem with the harmonic balancer in my car, which is a 3.5 BTW, so don't go off worrying, the 3.3 is a reliable car, the 3.5s tend to kill themselves
 

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Apcsox said:
once again, over 180K, starter is fine, and the bearings are jsut starting to go on the PS pump, but that's becasue there's a problem with the harmonic balancer in my car, which is a 3.5 BTW, so don't go off worrying, the 3.3 is a reliable car, the 3.5s tend to kill themselves

How do the 3.5's have a tendancy to commit suicide? I would like to know of any serious problems (asides from transmissions) before I buy 2-1st GEN 3.5's.
 

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I've never had any problems with my 3.5. Maybe he's talking about the water pump/timing belt failure that always happens with the 3.5's. One thing you got to remember the last of the 1st gens are comeing up on 10 years now. There is bound to be some problems happen to these cars. I'll I know is I'am happy with mine at close to 146,000 miles on her with only small repairs to her. Like the tie rod ends, timing belt/water pump, and normal wear items. The only thing I know is this car has been the best car I've had so far. :fawkoff:
 

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Strongt : I agree with the end of your last statement. These cars rock nuts. Of course, there are going to be serious problems later on, and a weakness Dodge is known for, but you have that with every vehicle.
The statement doesn't hold very well for ford, their vehicles suck ass. Yet to find a good thing about them (except for when they are sent to the junkyard, a fitting place.) :fun_06:
 

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LoL !! I know what you mean. My very first car was a POS Ford Tempo. Man what a gut less car !! Well, hell you drive anything that has wheels when your 16 !
 

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I actually miss my first vehicle...It was an 84 Caravan with a 2.2. Go ahead and laugh, but the old bastard had some serious balls. It had no problem hauling 5 tons.
Because of the haulings, the transmission blew and the frame got bent to all hell. Oops...

Then got an 89 Gutless Ciera...Fast, Small, no leg room, back seat was small. Bearing wasn't torqued right (from previous owner) and a bottom bearing went through the oil pan, and oddly, that transmission blew.

I get the hint I'm prone to transmission failure.

Then the maroon monster, I figured the transmission would take a ****, car was worth getting a Powerdemon. Not anymoe.

Than an 89 Junka CRsuX. It runs, but, not worth repairing. Internal leak in master cylinder, with cracked lines, engine burns oil, frame is rusted, body panel around gas inlet is rusted (same as gas door,) tranny is hard at shift, rough idle, you name it, it's going to happen.

Sadly, I went through 4 vehicles, and I'm only 21! LOL
 

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I'm referring to the weak rod-bearings that eventually fail and cause a rod-knock
 

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My intrepid has 164,000 miles on it and the transmission has only recieved maybe 2 or 3 flushes on it durring its life, the tranny has been neglected, pushed hard, beaten, and it still runs ok, yeah i get the jerkiness when im putting it into drive and i dont wait a half second for it to shift into first, other then that the tranny is fine.

The transmission will most likely go sometime around 165-175,000 miles, this info is what iv gathered from one of the other members on here who has a 1st gen with over 400,000 miles on his car and he's had 3 tranny swaps, he said somewhere around 165-175000 if I remember correctly.

Just flush your tranny, dont flip it into drive when your still travelling in reverse, and maybe consider getting a bigger cooler for the tranny, just to help it out, thats what I'm doing when I get a new transmission.

Oh and I work with someone whos 26 and he's had at least 12 cars, so don't feel bad :p
 
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On this forum, average life expectancy for a 42LE seems to be around 150K.
My car has almost that much now.

Tranny replaced for OEM at 60K
Tranny replaced for 2G SE at 100K. due to Torq. Conv. blow up.
Tranny replaced for 2G SE at 135K due to Torq.Conv. blow up.

Now I got a 1 yr warranty, I expect it to last to at least 200K.

But then again, even though this is my 4th tranny, it's always that goddamn TQ that blows up. Partly because I do flushes every 50K instead of every year. partly because this is New York City baby! I counted the other day how many times tranny shifts on my way to work. (7 miles). With traffic the way it is, I lost count at around 200 times.. and I was only half way to work.

Oh, and BTW, Autostick helps a great deal now. It lowers the number of how many times tranny will shift. In stop and go traffic I'll just keep it in 2nd gear A/S. For that half hour of stop 'n' go, It won't shift more than twice..
Just making sure that I don't ROMP the gas pedal past 1500 rpms when starting up in 2nd gear. TQ damage could contribute to this. I used to do it, but no more.

BTW2: Also, look into getting an AUXiliary transmission cooler radiator, and temp gauge also. A lot of members on this forum have it, and swear by it. Plus, everyone knows, the cooler the transmission fluids, the longer this 42LE lasts. I'm looking into one right now, and honestly, it looks like a breeze for installation.. here it gets to be 110F in the summer, add to that traffic.. jeez, I should def. get one.. What are they like $200 fully installed? Seems worth it.
 
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