Here are the marks. They go all the way around but I can’t feel them so maybe it’s ok.
Bad Piston Rings (?) and Unusual Cylinder Wall Marks
I’m currently in the process of reassembling my 04 Intrepid 2.7 and when scrubbing the pistons with a rag, gasket remover solution, and elbow grease, I noticed some movement from the front to the back of the engine (with the direction of the crankshaft) and it had me a little concerned. It was like this on all the pistons so idk if it’s normal or if something is wrong. I did notice a couple of odd marks low on the cylinder wall of cylinder #6 through (I currently have the piston soaking with the gasket remover so when I can I’ll get a pic.) Idk what I’ll do if it does need new rings. I’ve already spent so much on this car already so it would really not be fun having to spend more. Any information is helpful. Thanks for your time!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Here are the marks. They go all the way around but I can’t feel them so maybe it’s ok.
What has movement? Piston in engine? Rings on piston? Piston on wrist pin?
Those dark lines look like a spot the poison sat in for a long time. Did you hone the cylinders?
Used piston rings... I understand budget, but is a set of rings that much money? The engine builder suspendeds a set of pistons in the air, puts rings around them then builds the rest of the engine... I'd personally install a set of rings of you're going this far.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Those dark lines look like a spot the poison sat in for a long time. Did you hone the cylinders?
Used piston rings... I understand budget, but is a set of rings that much money? The engine builder suspendeds a set of pistons in the air, puts rings around them then builds the rest of the engine... I'd personally install a set of rings of you're going this far.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
It’s a relatively small amount of the piston in the engine. Like maybe a millimeter ant most. And those dark spots would make sense since it has been sitting for a long time (about 10 months now)What has movement? Piston in engine? Rings on piston? Piston on wrist pin?
Those dark lines look like a spot the poison sat in for a long time. Did you hone the cylinders?
Used piston rings... I understand budget, but is a set of rings that much money? The engine builder suspendeds a set of pistons in the air, puts rings around them then builds the rest of the engine... I'd personally install a set of rings of you're going this far.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
As far as redoing the rings, I’m sure the rings themselves won’t cost all that much but I’d need to buy tools that I don’t have and spend even more time that I don’t really have. I gotta get it running and driving so I can drive it to work. Idk how that’s going to work because I start next week but hopefully I can figure it out very soon.What has movement? Piston in engine? Rings on piston? Piston on wrist pin?
Those dark lines look like a spot the poison sat in for a long time. Did you hone the cylinders?
Used piston rings... I understand budget, but is a set of rings that much money? The engine builder suspendeds a set of pistons in the air, puts rings around them then builds the rest of the engine... I'd personally install a set of rings of you're going this far.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
You already took the pistons out, right? And then put them back in. The only thing you have to install is the rings. Personally, I've never used a tool to install rings... Just roll them on.
If the piston moves more one way than the other... then the cylinder is out of round. Have you looked at what the "out of round" spec is for that engine? It'll likely on the order of .001"-.003". I don't know that the spec is for clearance between the piston and the cylinder walls is though. It is normally on the order less than a mm total.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
If the piston moves more one way than the other... then the cylinder is out of round. Have you looked at what the "out of round" spec is for that engine? It'll likely on the order of .001"-.003". I don't know that the spec is for clearance between the piston and the cylinder walls is though. It is normally on the order less than a mm total.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Oh no they’re still in the block. If I had the pistons out, I probably would just replace the rings. Also that’s reassuring to hear. I’ll look up the clearance specs in my service manual later to confirm this.You already took the pistons out, right? And then put them back in. The only thing you have to install is the rings. Personally, I've never used a tool to install rings... Just roll them on.
If the piston moves more one way than the other... then the cylinder is out of round. Have you looked at what the "out of round" spec is for that engine? It'll likely on the order of .001"-.003". I don't know that the spec is for clearance between the piston and the cylinder walls is though. It is normally on the order less than a mm total.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Gotcha. The way you were talking about wiping down the piston, I thought they were out.Oh no they’re still in the block. If I had the pistons out, I probably would just replace the rings. Also that’s reassuring to hear. I’ll look up the clearance specs in my service manual later to confirm this.
Now I understand more. Of course. This makes sense about cleaning up the surfaces washing parts, etc.
And not changing the rings.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Yep haha! Just scrubbing off the carbon and burned oil on the top of them. I’m going to make sure I clean the cylinders with dawn dish soap and water (if dawn is OK to use) and dry them with an air chuck and compressor.Gotcha. The way you were talking about wiping down the piston, I thought they were out.
Now I understand more. Of course. This makes sense about cleaning up the surfaces washing parts, etc.
And not changing the rings.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Since you're working on an engine in place or assembled, is not use TONS of water and soap.
Soapy terry wash cloth, then wet terry wash cloth, then dry lint free cloth (terry might be good) then blow dry, then oil.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Soapy terry wash cloth, then wet terry wash cloth, then dry lint free cloth (terry might be good) then blow dry, then oil.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
So I should after air drying the cylinders, I should pour a little oil inside the combustion area? I assume this would be good for initial lubrication after a project like this. I’m sure it’s not smart to put a bunch in there. Sorry I’m kind of stupid in this area. It’s my first time ever doing internal engine work.Since you're working on an engine in place or assembled, is not use TONS of water and soap.
Soapy terry wash cloth, then wet terry wash cloth, then dry lint free cloth (terry might be good) then blow dry, then oil.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I'd wipe on a thin film of regular automotive oil with your finger. Maybe spin the crankshaft around a few times to spread it around a bit. Then oil the top of the block or the top of the cylinder sleeve to keep it rust free, then when you're ready to assemble, wipe just the gasket surface down with a clean LINT FREE cloth with brake clean on it. Then assemble.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Alright that sounds good! That reminds me I need to get my rags in the wash. They’re all grimyI'd wipe on a thin film of regular automotive oil with your finger. Maybe spin the crankshaft around a few times to spread it around a bit. Then oil the top of the block or the top of the cylinder sleeve to keep it rust free, then when you're ready to assemble, wipe just the gasket surface down with a clean LINT FREE cloth with brake clean on it. Then assemble.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Take pistons out; measure cylinder wall clearance and see if it's out of spec. This is done by measuring piston diameter and then bore diameter and seeing what the difference is. Usually this will be in the neighborhood of 0.1 - 0.15 thousandths but the FSM will have a spec.
This will also tell you if the bores are out of round.
Put new rings in at the same time and make sure you hit the cylinders with a hone to break the old glaze and set them up for the new rings.
Machine shop can do all of this for you too -- if you dont have the tools that is best. If you go that route might as well have them clean the block and check the deck for you too.
This will also tell you if the bores are out of round.
Put new rings in at the same time and make sure you hit the cylinders with a hone to break the old glaze and set them up for the new rings.
Machine shop can do all of this for you too -- if you dont have the tools that is best. If you go that route might as well have them clean the block and check the deck for you too.
Ok. I honestly might have to put it back together and save it for another time. I really can’t afford to do anymore big ticket stuff to it right now. I need to have to drive to work. I’m going to try and save some money up for a Toyota or Lexus to daily and I can keep the hard miles off the ’Trep. I’ll probably have this done when I have a 2nd car I can use in the meantime.Take pistons out; measure cylinder wall clearance and see if it's out of spec. This is done by measuring piston diameter and then bore diameter and seeing what the difference is. Usually this will be in the neighborhood of 0.1 - 0.15 thousandths but the FSM will have a spec.
This will also tell you if the bores are out of round.
Put new rings in at the same time and make sure you hit the cylinders with a hone to break the old glaze and set them up for the new rings.
Machine shop can do all of this for you too -- if you dont have the tools that is best. If you go that route might as well have them clean the block and check the deck for you too.
Yeah. If I were in that situation I would likely roll with it and put it back together. Chances are there is nothing wrong but when you get down that far its not much more to have everything checked and fix up what you can while your there.Ok. I honestly might have to put it back together and save it for another time. I really can’t afford to do anymore big ticket stuff to it right now. I need to have to drive to work. I’m going to try and save some money up for a Toyota or Lexus to daily and I can keep the hard miles off the ’Trep. I’ll probably have this done when I have a 2nd car I can use in the meantime.
Ok. I asked my dad about it and he said it was pretty normal looking so I think it’s just my paranoia.Yeah. If I were in that situation I would likely roll with it and put it back together. Chances are there is nothing wrong but when you get down that far its not much more to have everything checked and fix up what you can while your there.
Also you’ll you have a look at my thread about the exterior head accessory hardware? I really could use some help there.Yeah. If I were in that situation I would likely roll with it and put it back together. Chances are there is nothing wrong but when you get down that far its not much more to have everything checked and fix up what you can while your there.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums
A forum community dedicated to Dodge Intrepid owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, specs, parts, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
