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well, my trep has a bad wheel bearing, it all started wednesday. My car started making this loud growling noise coming from the passenger front side of the car. my dad and i took the wheel off, and ran some tests of it on the jack. We first assumed it was the Differential of the tranny, because the boot was shaking a little. THen thursday afternoon we took it to a Tranny Guy. He gave it a test drive, and said it was defintly the wheel bearing. So we ordered a new wheel bearing and a nut from our local auto parts store, (about 100 bux). Now i gotta wait til they call sometime this afternoon. We are gonna Replace the bearing tomorrow afternoon. I was so glad it wasnt the tranny that was making the noise.
 

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you should get a front end alignment right away after you put the bearing in. it will make a difference.
 

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I have a 96 intrep 3.5 and was wondering if anybody knew how to replace the wheel bearing on the passenger side of the car.
 

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remove the axle nut, remove the lug nuts, remove tire, remove the brake caliper, remove the brake rotor and there should be three bolts on the inside of the a-frame that hold the hub assembly in place
 

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Maybe this will help:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7


Fig. 1: Unbolt the steering knuckle-to-hub




Fig. 2: If the hub is too tight, pry the unit off as shown




Fig. 3: Slide the hub and bearing assembly off the stub shaft

Raise and support the vehicle safely.

Remove the front wheel(s).

Remove the front caliper assembly from the steering knuckle.

Remove the front brake rotor from the hub by pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs.

Remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut assembly. Remove the screw attaching the speed sensor to the steering knuckle. If the sensor is seized, use a small hammer and a punch and gently tap the edge of the sensor ear, rocking the sensor side to side until it is free.

Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle retainer nut. This hub nut is a torque prevailing retaining nut and can not be reused. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used when assembling the hub to complete this repair.

If the metal seal on the hub and bearing assembly is seized to the steering knuckle and becomes dislodged on hub and bearing during removal, the hub and bearing must be replaced. If the flinger disc becomes damaged during the removal procedure, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.

Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle by pulling it straight out of the knuckle and off the ends of the stub shaft. Due to rust and corrosion, especially on high-mileage vehicles, it will probably be necessary to gently pry the assembly out with a prybar or tap it out with a soft face hammer. Be careful not to damage the hub and bearing assembly, if it is to be reused. Once loosened, remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle by sliding it straight out of the knuckle and off the ends of the stub shaft.

To install:

Clean the hub and bearing mounting surfaces of dirt and make sure there are no nicks present. Install the hub and bearing to the stub shaft and the steering knuckle. Install the 3 bearing assembly mounting bolts and tighten equally until the bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front of the steering knuckle. At this point, tighten the three mounting bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).

Install a new hub and bearing assembly-to-stub shaft retainer nut. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used when assembling the hub. Tighten but do not torque the nut at this time.

Inspect the brake rotor and front disc brake pads and service or replace these items as required. Install the brake rotor and the caliper assembly. Install the caliper to steering knuckle retainer bolts and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)

Install the front wheel(s) and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm). Lower the vehicle to the ground. Pump the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained.

With the weight on the vehicle on its wheels, apply the brakes to keep the vehicle from moving. Tighten the hub and bearing assembly to stub shaft retaining nut to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm).


WARNING

When tightening the hub and bearing assembly to stub shaft retaining nut, do not exceed the maximum torque of 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm). If the maximum torque is exceeded this may result in a failure of the halfshaft.


Road test vehicle to verify proper operation and no front wheel bearing noise.
 

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If you do one, you might as well do the other. I had one replaced couple years ago and the dealer suggested I replace the other one too but I said no. Sure enough a few months later the other side started to growl. Just my crap luck I guess.

-GB49
 

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GB49 said:
If you do one, you might as well do the other. I had one replaced couple years ago and the dealer suggested I replace the other one too but I said no. Sure enough a few months later the other side started to growl. Just my crap luck I guess.

-GB49
Doing both is a good suggestion. My dad used to do suspension work for a living and he always told be that you should replace parts in pairs, ie. tie rods, ball joints, etc..

Wheel bearings typically make a growling, or some people describe it as a howling noise. A good indication is to jack up the wheel off the ground and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and give it a shake like you were checking for a loose tie rod. Next grab it at 12 and 6 and give it a shake like you were checking for a loose ball joint. If you get movement both ways, either you've got bad tie rods AND bad ball joints, or you've got a bad bearing. Take the wheel off and try moving the flange around. It might not move as much with the wheel off, especially if its just starting to go. If you can move the flange around pretty easily with the wheel off, well then you better be making plans to get it replaced ASAP!
 
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