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Discussion Starter #1
Well.... I thought I had it running.

After a few minutes at idle in the driveway I heard a pop and it shut off. There was smoke coming from the #5 coil. I removed it and part of the epoxy had melted. The Coil/injector 20a fuse was blown.

Ok, no problem, bad coil. I run up to autozone and pick up a new one (the junkyards are all closed) and install it. new fuse. Start it up, she's running fine for a few minutes then, pop, the new coil pack blows. That was a quick $39.99.

Any ideas guys? :icon_neut
 

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Converted said:
Well.... I thought I had it running.

After a few minutes at idle in the driveway I heard a pop and it shut off. There was smoke coming from the #5 coil. I removed it and part of the epoxy had melted. The Coil/injector 20a fuse was blown.

Ok, no problem, bad coil. I run up to autozone and pick up a new one (the junkyards are all closed) and install it. new fuse. Start it up, she's running fine for a few minutes then, pop, the new coil pack blows. That was a quick $39.99.

Any ideas guys? :icon_neut
Check the capacitor for that cylinder bank (mounted on valve cover by coil #5) or shorted or broken ground wire from that coil or capacitor.
 

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Also check the spark plug for that cylinder. Could have a crack in it causing the spark to short to ground. For the hell of it, compare that plug to another on the motor and see if there's any difference between the #5 and another cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lextrep said:
Check the capacitor for that cylinder bank (mounted on valve cover by coil #5) or shorted or broken ground wire from that coil or capacitor.
Thanks, I pulled one of the capacitors from the 2.7. They have the same numbers on them as the 3.2 capacitor. I plugged it in and used one of the 2.7 coils. After less than a minute of running I put the temp prob on that coil and had 235 F, the other coils were at 113 F. I shut it off before doing any more damage.

I checked continuity from the capacitor connector to the load side of the coil/injector fuse and get less than 1 ohm. I get the same thing from the dark green wire on the coil connector. The wires are good and not shorted or grounded.


I am getting 6 CEL codes

1684, Battery disconnected in last 50 starts, no problem

0340, No cam siganl at PCM. I had the cam sensor unplugged while trying to figure out why it wouldn't start.

0123, Throttle Position sensor voltage high. I get 13.78 volts with the motor running

0113, Intake air temp sensor voltage high

0205, Injector #5 coil circuit, I unplugged the #5 injector so I was not dumping fuel on to the cat.

0355, Ignition coil #5 primary circuit, yea, and...

One of my neighbors is a parts guy at a nearby Dodge dealer. He offered to bring home their hand held scanner. I'll clear the codes and see what I can figure out with that tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
froggy81500 said:
Also check the spark plug for that cylinder. Could have a crack in it causing the spark to short to ground. For the hell of it, compare that plug to another on the motor and see if there's any difference between the #5 and another cylinder.
Thanks, I picked up 6 new plugs with the new coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I picked up a LED test light. Kinda neat and cheap too, $8.99

Has a positive and negative alligator clip and a red and green light. Red for positive polarity and green for negative. Anyway, I probed the TN/DG signal wire to the #5 coil. This wire should be grounded by the PCM to fire the coil. I get a solid green light indicating that the circuit is grounded. With the key off there is no light. I checked a couple other cylinders and had a flickering green light just like it should be.

I'm running out of options, sounds to me like the PCM has a glitch.

Anyone have any ideas?

The guy across the street is going to bring home the hand held programer from the Dodge dealer tomorrow night. I'm not sure he knows how to use it. Any idea what I can do or learn with a Dodge programer?

Am I going to hurt anything if I let my wife drive this thing about 3 miles to work running on five cylinders? I did unplug the injector connector so I'm not dumping any fuel into that cylinder.

Edit:

Oops I was wrong. I've got solid green with the key off. The other cylinders have no light with the key off. I unplugged the connector from the PCM and then had no light on #5. The ground apparently coming through the PCM somehow.
 

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Which wiring harness did you use ?. 2.7 or ?. Have you done a continuity check between the injector harness and ecm connector ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bear-man said:
Which wiring harness did you use ?. 2.7 or ?. Have you done a continuity check between the injector harness and ecm connector ?
I used the 3.2 harness. I checked continunity in the harness and it is good. If I disconnect the harness from the PCM the coil ground signal goes away.
 

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Looking over the schematics, it sure looks like a PCM/ECU problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The car has been sitting for awhile now. Time to get it fixed. :brutal_43

Before I get a new PCM... could this problem be caused by the flywheel? The flywheel/tuning ring on the 3.2 had a bit of surface rust. I cleaned it off with a wire wheel on a drill then sprayed it of with the air compressor. Is it possible that I'm getting crank position signal for all cylinders but #5?
 

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The car has been sitting for awhile now. Time to get it fixed. :brutal_43

Before I get a new PCM... could this problem be caused by the flywheel? The flywheel/tuning ring on the 3.2 had a bit of surface rust. I cleaned it off with a wire wheel on a drill then sprayed it of with the air compressor. Is it possible that I'm getting crank position signal for all cylinders but #5?
I highly doubt that. There's notches in the flywheel that indicate which cylinder the motor is on so the pcm knows when to fire which plug and which injector etc... If the notches for the #5 were blocked so the crank sensor wouldn't pick it up then I see where there would be an issue, but I don't think it'd be blowing out ignition coils like yours.
 

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lextrep said:
Check the capacitor for that cylinder bank (mounted on valve cover by coil #5) or shorted or broken ground wire from that coil or capacitor.
I had to go cack thru the thread and see if anybody thought of that. It just popped into my head when I realized the #5 is the last one back on the odd bank and the capacitor is attached to it. Not sure if a short or open there will do it but its worth a shot to check it out. My electrical engineering knowledge is a bit rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I read back through my notes and I'm 99.9% sure it is the PCM. The fact that the pin is grounded with the key off when all the other coils are open with the key off narrows it down to the PCM.

I found one for $65.00. Now if I can just get that BSer across the street to actually bring home the DRBIII :wow: Anyone know how to flash the VIN if you have the tool?
 

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Converted said:
I read back through my notes and I'm 99.9% sure it is the PCM. The fact that the pin is grounded with the key off when all the other coils are open with the key off narrows it down to the PCM.

I found one for $65.00. Now if I can just get that BSer across the street to actually bring home the DRBIII :wow: Anyone know how to flash the VIN if you have the tool?

Yep, I agree. The injectors and coil packs are fired by the PCM-- by way of their ground circuit. They all have a constant 12v with the key on, then the pcm grounds each at the right time. Probably a short in the pcm, or a bad coil driver. I dont think its possible to flash a different vin into these ecms. Let me know if you can do it with a DRBII. You may need to go thru someone like ecudirect.com and have yours rebuilt. Good luck...
 

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Have you checked the coil wire at the pcm, disconnected from the pcm, to see if its grounded? Gotta be a grounding issue, but look around for a pinched wire before suspecting the pcm.

Edit, nevermind, I just back thru again and see that you did that already.
Converted said:
I unplugged the connector from the PCM and then had no light on #5. The ground apparently coming through the PCM somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
32Intrepid said:
I dont think its possible to flash a different vin into these ecms. Let me know if you can do it with a DRBII. You may need to go thru someone like ecudirect.com and have yours rebuilt. Good luck...
Well that's great news. I thought the guy across the street said I could flash the VIN with the handheld... but... then again... 2 months later and still no handheld :beam:

I put an inquiry in with ecu direct. Looks like the price of poker just went up
 

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oops. nevermind. Is there a way to delete my own post.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
jedgxe said:
Still could be that control wire is shorted to ground. Converted edited post #6 "solid green light with key off" I would still go with this froggy test.
Green light goes away with harness unplugged from PCM. Ground source through PCM

I am going to run through all the tests once again before pulling the PCM

Thanks
 
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