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Woober Goobers!
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Why you little........!!!
 

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Woober Goobers!
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J/K!
 

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Woober Goobers!
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A Broken timing chain would be very obvious though!
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
I removed the bolts at the top of the cover and was able to pull it back about 1/4". I pushed on the belt with a flat head screwdriver and belt did not move. Since belt not broken the problem is likely a blown head gasket since no compression in 5 of 6 cylinders.

I'll sell the car instead of tying to fix it.

I sold a wrecked vehicle with body damage in the past that was worth only $100 or $200 if taken to salvage yard but sold it for $500 because someone needed the transmission out of it. And I sold another one with body damage for $800 that someone needed the engine out of it. I'll try selling it as is and maybe I'll get lucky with same type of situation, but if not, someone offered me $100 for it and said I could strip anything off it that I want (incl. the tires and rims). The tires are almost brand new, so I could get about $300 for tires and rims. The battery is about a year old and the radiator about 6 mo. old. Any other ideas what to remove off the car without much trouble that would be no problem selling if I decide to go this route?
 

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Woober Goobers!
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I was questioning the tester readings but it looks like you cleared that up with confirmation on your Intrepid. You must've really toasted something to get no readings at all in 5 cylinders on the other car. Bummer!
 

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1) If timing belt broke, is there any chance with the car having an interference engine (2nd gen 3.2) that valves didn't didn't get bent?

2) If answer to above is yes, I'll get an endoscope to verify if valves bent. Do the valve covers have to come off to do that, or just stick the scope in the cylinders to check without removing the covers?
My wife's Intrepid had a very similar happening, temperature spiked all of the sudden, pulled over and wouldn't start again. Turned out water pump seized and then belt shredded
40895

I had turned it over liberally because obd2 said faulty camshaft position sensor, thought valves possibly bent like old nails but replaced belt, pump, tension wheel, as well as radiator, hoses, etc. And now that you mentioned it, was losing small amount of coolant periodically about a cup every 2 weeks but no external weep hole so no indication pump bad
40896

Buttoned it all back up and runs wonderfully.
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I have to tell you Eagle if you can remove the radiator/ fans/crank pulley/front cover, which it sounds like you can, you can replace the belt, water pump, tensioner pulley yourself instead of farming it out to someone else. It may seem daunting but it really isn't, you need 10, 13, 15, 18mm sockets, 13 mm wrench, pliers, screwdriver, crankshaft pulley puller (AutoZone free rental). After tearing down (put bolts from different stages in different containers) replace water pump, tensioner wheel, line up all 3 timing marks, then turn crank (turn left) and left camshaft sprocket (turn right) one tooth towards right camshaft sprocket. Put on belt, with hydraulic tensioner compressed and pinned insert back into block, start bolts but don't tighten completely till belt is snug, then turn crank right 1 tooth so timing mark lines up again, left bank turn timing sprocket left 1 tooth so timing mark lines up and belt between the 3 is very tight, tighten hydraulic tensioner bolts completely, pull pin compressing hydraulic tensioner and you can then start the car. I did everything on mine including new radiator for about $250, $300 because I replaced all fluids. I absolutely swear I can walk you through this having just done the repair myself. Write me back I will give you my phone number so we can talk or text directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks so much for the info. qwk69buick and to everyone else who gave me advice in this thread. I sold the car a few days ago to someone who lives in my area. He is a mechanic and also is a member of this forum. He said if he is able to fix it, he will sell it back to me.



I have to tell you Eagle if you can remove the radiator/ fans/crank pulley/front cover, which it sounds like you can, you can replace the belt, water pump, tensioner pulley yourself instead of farming it out to someone else. It may seem daunting but it really isn't, you need 10, 13, 15, 18mm sockets, 13 mm wrench, pliers, screwdriver, crankshaft pulley puller (AutoZone free rental). After tearing down (put bolts from different stages in different containers) replace water pump, tensioner wheel, line up all 3 timing marks, then turn crank (turn left) and left camshaft sprocket (turn right) one tooth towards right camshaft sprocket. Put on belt, with hydraulic tensioner compressed and pinned insert back into block, start bolts but don't tighten completely till belt is snug, then turn crank right 1 tooth so timing mark lines up again, left bank turn timing sprocket left 1 tooth so timing mark lines up and belt between the 3 is very tight, tighten hydraulic tensioner bolts completely, pull pin compressing hydraulic tensioner and you can then start the car. I did everything on mine including new radiator for about $250, $300 because I replaced all fluids. I absolutely swear I can walk you through this having just done the repair myself. Write me back I will give you my phone number so we can talk or text directly.
 
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